Switching from a small block to a big block
If your springs are old and worn out I'd change them, but otherwise I wouldn't. I'm running smallblock springs in my '71 with a 427 with cast iron heads. It sits perfect and doen't bottom out, even on large bumps. I did use new SBC springs, just not new BBC springs.
Youll need to change the heater box, or reverse the heater core. Radiator if you have a small one in 2 row. You'll want the larger radiator with 4 rows. And if you don't have a cowl hood, or the factory low rise intake, you'll need one or the other.
Youll need to change the heater box, or reverse the heater core. Radiator if you have a small one in 2 row. You'll want the larger radiator with 4 rows. And if you don't have a cowl hood, or the factory low rise intake, you'll need one or the other.
Last edited by 1971BB427; Feb 9, 2012 at 09:52 PM.
Don't bother spending the money on a "BB heater core box", because all you will get is your exact same box, that you already have, with holes just drilled in a different location.
All you need to do there is buy the BB heater core and when you put it up to the heater core, you will see where to drill the new holes, then you can buy the grommet (for lack of a better word) that the heater core tubes go through. If you are handy, you will be able to mock up your own brackets inside the box to hold the heater core securely, then you can weld up the existing holes in the firewall that were left from the SB heater core.
All you need to do there is buy the BB heater core and when you put it up to the heater core, you will see where to drill the new holes, then you can buy the grommet (for lack of a better word) that the heater core tubes go through. If you are handy, you will be able to mock up your own brackets inside the box to hold the heater core securely, then you can weld up the existing holes in the firewall that were left from the SB heater core.
Some people will also use the same frame mounts as they did with their small-block. That isn't to much of a problem, but it does end up sitting the engine a bit further back and a little more towards the driver's side of the car. When this does become a problem, is if you decide to go with a bigger diameter header tube. Then the steering box will interfere with their fit
Im starting out with a car that had the motor and trans missing. The car was originally a '69 SS small block 350/ 4spd car. I already had a '72 402 out of a chevy truck and a muncie 4spd from a '68 Camaro and wanted to use them in my build. Pulleys and mounts are the least of my concerns. But I would like to run the stock SS hood! Guess I have a manifold to find


