I have a 69 that I''m going to get subframe connectors for and may be over thinking this but where is best place to set jack stands? Don't know if rear axle and front frame near crossmember would do anytrhing when set back down with weight back on suibframes and connectors. Thanks, Tom

 

Are you running the soft, aka stock rubber body mounts? I would think between the two floor body mounts on the front sub spindle and pretty much anywhere between the spring mounts on the rear frame section.

If I was running the soft rubber mount I would be tempted I would be tempted to measure the the current distance while the car is sitting on the floor then make a stack of washers to fit. Tighten that stack to maintain the that distance. But if you are using the soft mounts what is the point of the frame connectors?

 

Subframe connectors add rigidity to the vehicle, but if you're working on these parts, you need to be careful not to damage the frame or throw the car out of alignment while lifting.

 

Replace body mounts first if they are original or worn before installing sub frame connectors. Do one side at a time but loosen all of them first. There is sub frame to body alignment holes at A pillar. A long 9/16" bolt can be used as a "tool" to keep sub frame (front) aligned or you can buy the alignment pins on Summit

The rear sub frame mount bolt will be loosened to slide SFC in

Depending on what SFC you buy depends on where they attach to rear sub frame. Bolt in one's bolt under front leaf spring mount so you will need to have the car lifted at rear sub frame so you can lower the rear end to take the front of leaf spring off to get the SFC on (one side at a time). You also need to disconnect rear shock at perch and unclip parking brake cable.

 

I would not "lift" the car at all
I'd use a pit, where the vehicle is sitting on the ground, or simulate a pit by using ramps in the front and jacking the rear axle up
For NVH reasons look up neutralize suspension
Also the exhaust can be neutralized and the springs shocke etc
All those parts are designed to have the bolts tightened at the normal ride height
Matters little on a subframe connection but, I would still not lift it by the body and install the connectors

 

Having installed SFC on my 67, I jacked up front with floor jack centered on front cross member using a block of wood between jack and cross member. I have race ramps (tire cribs) under the front tires

The rear needs to be on jack stands supporting rear sub-frame as you need a floor jack to raise rear end itself and lower each side separately. A second set of jack stands are helpful to support disconnected rear end so floor jack is out of the way when installing each side separately. You need to disconnect lower shock and parking brake cable from each rear

Once sub frame connectors are in with all bolts in but not tightened, the suspension must be fully loaded then tighten all bolts, reinstall rear shock at lower connection and clip parking brake cables back on. You can either support the rear with tire cribs or jack stands under axle while tightening all bolts

 

Got them installed yesterday-no problem. I had some 10" blocks under each tire so had car stting in natural stance but high enough to do the install. Thanks for all the advice and help. Tom

 

Never hurts to get a new alignment after. Ask a round and find a shop that know what it is doing and is there to do alignments not sell parts. This spring go to a car show and find the right shop by asking the guys with the old chevys. Any changes in the subframe can change tow. Even the stress of holding up the car to 55 can put stress in the subframe and as soon as you loosen it will change slightly.

When I was a mechanic I worked at 3 dealers one of those put the customer first. At that dealer we had a simple rule, if you loosen the sub frame you check tow before its "done". I would say most of the time no adjustment was needed but as many as I did fine needing adjustments I was surprised the other dealers did not do it. One tech used to complain that setting tow was not part of the flat rate. He said the ones that needed adjustment either came from the factory that way or bumped a curb at some point. There was a lot of little things that dealer did that were beyond what was required. Sadly they still went out of business.

 

Thanks for the heads up oalignment. Got frfiend that owns alignment shop that most street rodders and hot rodders use. I'll let him check it.

 

Good job tom Bishop for doing it (how I would consider) right
Really does not make a gnat on a rats ***, having the suspension loaded during the install, but you can rest easy the car is now "neutralized" with the subframe connectors installed
Having the alignment checked and the toe set would be the cherry on top
I did alignments for 30 years
Your buddy can also double check the tightness of the bolts for you when he has it over his pit or on his alignment machine
Drive it around some before you take it over to him