Hey guys, my 69 has stock rear drums...what's the best or smartest way to cange out to disc brakes ?? I can buy a kit from online Camaro vendors, but is this the way to go?

 

If you get a complete kit total cost involved upfront then yes get a kit. If you get part of a kit and then have to buy, Master cylinder, proportioning valve etc. , then buy it in pieces and get exactly what you want. In the kit you get what they put in it and if you have to replace some of the pieces does the kit make sense?

 

If you do your own work then do a complete swap from a LS1 Camaro. Not to bad of a job and its a huge upgrade over stock.

 

The real question you should be asking yourself is, how much do I feel comfortable fabricating or assembling myself? And then what do you want to spend? Putting together parts to build up a disc brake rear setup can be done much cheaper than any kit you'll buy, and work as well. But it takes a bit of parts searching, and fabrication to do so.
On most disc brake swaps I've put together for myself or others; I can usually do the whole thing for under $150 in new parts. It used to take some time at first to figure what fits and what works, but now it's easier to do, as I keep all the part numbers handy for various Chevy, Ford, etc. bolt patterns, and models.

 

Thanks! For your input

 

Care to share that info?

I replaced my 67's sub frame with one from a 70 Nova with disc brakes. It'd be nice to have them on the back as well.

 

I use Speedway weld on brackets for GM metric calipers (78-88) These are $10 a pair.
(2) Rotors (Common Chevy rotors any rotor that fits the bolt pattern and has a diameter of 10.5 to 11.75 inches)
(2) Calipers (1985 Chevy 3/4 ton truck front)
(1) Set of brake pads (1985 Chevy 3/4 ton truck front)
(2) Soft brake lines (1985 Chevy 3/4 ton truck front, crush washers included)
(2) Banjo bolts (10mm, 1985 Chevy 3/4 ton truck front)

I drill the caliper brackets to match two of the old backing plate holes, and also weld them to the tube in addition. Don't need a weld all along, just some tacks to help the two bolt holes hold better. I remove the stock disc/drum proportioning valve, and install a adjustable prop valve. I use a stock master, and it usually takes very little adjustment on the prop valve to get the brakes stopping equally.
I just did a swap on my buddy's '69 Nova, but we swapped a complete 8.8" Ford rear axle, with 3.73 posi, and factory disc brakes. This is an even better setup, if your car isn't a posi. It gave him a 3.73 posi, disc brakes, and the much stronger 8.8" Ford, with 31 spline axles, all for $200. He was buying new wheels, so the 5x4.5" bolt pattern wasn't a big deal, and he carries a dual pattern spare to ensure he's always got the right spare wheel.
Did have to get an adapter joint for the driveline to fit up the Ford 8.8" flange. I also swapped this car to a T56 six speed, and wish he'd gone with a 4.10 rear axle, as he can't use 6th gear until he's doing over 75 mph, or it lugs the engine.

 

Wow. Thank you for all that info!

So we're saying those "front" Chevy truck brakes work for the Camaro rear, correct? And my stock 67 master will handle everything front and back?

 

Yes, stock Chevy calipers, and master cylinder.
I did the same set up on another friend's car, and we tried it without a proportioning valve. Figured we could always plumb in an adjustable later. Three years later, and he still is running it without a proportioning valve, and it stops straight, and hard.
I'm contemplating going to 4 wheel disc brakes on my '63 Falcon, with BBC power this summer. Have most of the parts, and will use the Mustang dual master I have on it now.