Any help from anyone smarter than me is very appreciated.
I put a front disk conversion from the right stuff on my 67 camaro had to get small booster because raised valve covers. I don't think I am getting enough vaccuum to the booster because I press on the pedal it goes down maybe 1 inch and it is like hitting a brick wall. And I still have to stand on it to stop. Not exactly what I was hoping for with a conversion. The other thing is the further I go and the more I use the brake it seems like the calipers do not release I leave home go 7 miles round trip back to the driveway rotors are red hot and I can tell the brakes are dragging bad. Almost like riding with the emergency brake on.I let it sit in the driveway for 30 - 40 minutes and enough pressure bleeds of the system and it will free roll again. I'm wondering if someone makes a vac. booster or something like it that I can put on the vac. line between the intake and the booster to make the darn thing work. Any help please

 

I think you need to take your licks now and get that car to a good brake shop. If you have heated those rotors that much that there is a good chance they are warped or scaled.

Did you bleedthe system properly and there is also a different feel from drum to disc.

Get it to a shop and let them diagnose it the first time rather than you trying "this or that" before it's right. Brakes are not something to take lightly when it comes to saftey on the road.

RM

 

here is a link for cannisters

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294858274

now let us go a little further here. I'm going to guess that you have a big-block under the hood?
is your car radically cammed? that is a big factor in needinga canister although it is always good to have one anyways.

it really doesn't sound like that't the problem though. it almost sounds like you have a brakeline collapsing. where did you get your conversion kit?

another thing that needs to be done, if you haven't already done it, is to change the position of the rod that goes from you booster to your brakepedal. there are different holes in your brakepedal just for this reason. when you go over to powerbrakes, there is less leverage needed so the position changes, and I will gaurantee that 99% of the brake shops out there would NEVER figure that out because they haven't had enough experience with stuff like that

just a few things to think about. keep us updated

 

I agree with both above. Bleed the system and bench bleed the master cylinder - complete bleed, everything. Start over basically (dont forget to prime the cylinders and install the canister). Also dont forget to adjust the rear brakes, there is a horizontal adjuster (for the E-brake, on the rear drum calipers) that needs tweaking when you change components. Put it up on stands an rotate the tires manually, apply the brake. If it still has the same problems then take it to a shop.

 

hey guys thanks for the feed back,
ok we will start from the beginning.I installed a kit fromthe right stuff new lines front and back it was a complete kit with everything needed except brake fluid.
new spindles i got 2" dropped new rotors power booster basically everything. Once I got everything finished I took the car to NTB for new tires and wheels and put new shoes and drums in the back also a front end alignment. They also checked the work I did to make sure everything was OK. They checked everything out fixed the things that needed to be fixed and told me all systems go. PS they had the car for 5 days. so it wasnt exactly a rush job. As I was driving it home everytime I hit the brake it seemed as though the calipers were not releasing 100% and they just kept dragging until I got home I put it in neutral and there was no free wheel movement at all.

The car has a 350 small with radical Lunati I was told from the mechanic that the vaccum was way low, and showed me on another car what it should be. Yeah I need a cannister, I will definitely look into that. On the issue of the rod from the pedal to the booster they actually made that clear in the instructions, that if there was not another hole an inch below the top one, to drill one out to attach the rod, luckily mine had one. From the pedal bracket to the booster it is a straight shot from the pedal to the booster with no binding or bending involved out of the firewall to the booster. I think this may be the area in which I might have messed up. the connector that attaches to the pedal connects to a rod that goes through the firewall and that rodattaches into the back side of the booster rod. When I put the rod onto the back of the booster I screwed that thing in just as far as I could which kinda went into the rubber boot coming off of the back of the booster. Im wondering if I may have screwed that thing in to much and it is causing alot of my headaches.

I think the cannister will help alot with the brakes hitting a brick wall the car stops fine but there is no soft feel to the brake pedal at all. On the issue of the brakes sticking, I knowthey get tight in thefront, I dont know about the rear. The frontsdont get quite red hot. But they are not releasing for some reason. I do the bleed again.

Tell me what you think
THANKS

 

I didnt even read much further than that. By taking the car and giving it the bless off, they should now take responsibility for anythiing not done right. I would return it. Did they guarantee the 'all systems go'?

 

Not really a guarantee only that everything looked and worked ok. If I drive it around the store there you would not notice the drag on the brakes. You have to go about 5 or so miles before you start noticing something is not right. I did call them after I got home and they told me to bring it back and they would look into it that was Friday and I wanted to go to a car show on saturday . I will be taking it back to them wednesday so they can look into it more. Im still wondering if I may have screwed that rod in to far on the booster and Im not getting enough release or a bind in the system some where.

 

are you positive you have the right size rod between the booster and the master? if I remember right, when I bought mine they sent me the wrong rod but I noticed before I finished the job

 

well I put the vac. canister on BIG hep but the brakes were still dragging. Talked to the right stuff and they helped me out alot too.
what happenned was there was a spacer lock nut on the rod coming out of the booster to the master cylinder actuating the master tokeep theBRAKES ON. I took the booster off again backed that rod out took off the spacer lock nut replaced it with a smaller one put it back on and SHAZZAAM it works like a champ. problem solved the car stops when it is supposed to now, THANKS for your help.

 

Nice when you figure out those pesky little details, eh? Good job!