low oil pressure

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Old May 3, 2012 | 02:10 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by jeu510
lol......i'll find a way....nos!....hahha...anyways, i'm actually looking at a sbc 400 to stroke....i like the power of a big block, but dont want to change a bunch of stuff make it fit, so small block 400 should make up for it......any suggestions on what internals i should go with?
Back in the day (Mid 80's), I had a book by I think Smokey Yunick, He had a killer setup for a stroked 327 that I always wanted to build... I'll see if I still have it laying around. wow, a blast from the past!
 
Old May 3, 2012 | 02:19 PM
  #12  
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Back to your original question, this is what I was told by a gentleman that owned the engine shop that built the motors for the IROC series.

He said, for every RPM, you only need 10psi.

So, 1000 rpm = 10 psi, 1500 rpm = 15 psi, 2000 rpm = 20 psi, 2500 rpm = 25 psi and on up.

I found this hard to believe but hey, his motors were out there running on the tracks and I couldn't argue with that.
 
Old May 3, 2012 | 02:25 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by bruce69camaro
Back to your original question, this is what I was told by a gentleman that owned the engine shop that built the motors for the IROC series.

He said, for every RPM, you only need 10psi.

So, 1000 rpm = 10 psi, 1500 rpm = 15 psi, 2000 rpm = 20 psi, 2500 rpm = 25 psi and on up.

I found this hard to believe but hey, his motors were out there running on the tracks and I couldn't argue with that.
That may be, but I always thought 40 psi was normal when cruising down the road for a stock small block chevy and 20psi at idle was the norm.
 
Old May 3, 2012 | 02:27 PM
  #14  
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A popular stroker setup for the 327 is to swap in a 350 crank and pistons, which gives you a 350.
Although in stock form a 327 can hit higher rpm's than a 350, the 350 can be built to easily surpass the 327. Then there's also the simple fact that the 350 has more cubic inches, more torque, and more h.p., with all other things being equal. Unless you want a 327 to have that fuzzy nostalgic feeling, there's not a good sensible reason why you should take a back seat instead of going with more cubes.
 
Old May 4, 2012 | 05:58 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by StoveBolts
That may be, but I always thought 40 psi was normal when cruising down the road for a stock small block chevy and 20psi at idle was the norm.
I totally agree, when he told me this, I had a puzzled look on my face. I always ran a high pressure pump and had the same kind of pressures or higher, like you described.

Even now, my Pro Lite is setup to come on at 15psi. and it even bothers me to see the gauge down that low.

But like I said, he built these IROC motors and whom am I to tell him....
 
Old May 5, 2012 | 04:50 PM
  #16  
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yeah, maybe i'll just start buying parts for the 327 and pull it when i have all the parts and funds ready.....thanks alot guys..
 
Old Jun 7, 2012 | 01:39 AM
  #17  
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I realize I dont have a first gen car but...
I'm having the same issue with my 305 in my 92 rs. Reading about 20-30 when cool but as soon as it warms up to about 200F the gauge reads zero. I am not getting a check engine light or any other indications of issues. not even a knock or grind. where should I start the trouble shooting?
Help please.
 
Old Jun 7, 2012 | 04:49 AM
  #18  
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My 90 RS did the same thing and it was the oil pressure sending unit.
 
Old Jun 7, 2012 | 09:16 AM
  #19  
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Right on,thanks, sending units are cheap enough.
 
Old Jun 7, 2012 | 02:58 PM
  #20  
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Another possibility: Oil pump pick up screen is clogged. Years of sludge, carbon, and other debris can plug up a screen quite nicely. Just an idea.
 



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