Gman's '69 Project "BumbleBee"
#11
01-06-2008, 03:28 PM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: The 'Burbs of Chicago
Posts: 18,306
RE: Gman's '69 Project "BumbleBee"
For reference, here's the link where I found this one. Quite possible that Harbor Freight may haveone too. I have also seen one that's like a glorified vise grips, but an air tool will make the going much easier.
http://www.usatoolsinc.com/index.asp...p;ProdID=19243
http://www.usatoolsinc.com/index.asp...p;ProdID=19243
#12
01-06-2008, 03:37 PM
RE: Gman's '69 Project "BumbleBee"
I am glad to hear you know what you got into. I would like to recommend a how to video for you. Paintucation-Pannel replacement they take you step by step on how to get that perfect replacement panel fit. They also show you how to replace the whole thing and even how to use epoxies. He is not doing a Camaro in the video but a Mustang. He does stress how important it is to maintain unibody strength. That will be critical with a Big Block.
IMO budget is critical. These project can get way out of hand. I have know guys that blew their budget for the whole car just in sheet metal. Ends up taking 5 years to finish the car. I know even the 5 years is not to bad its just life changes a lot in five years and you end up selling a 50% done project for half your cash out lay and forget any labor value.
Your engine should be fine. The first year for computers in trucks was 86 and that was just spark timing. Fuel injection did not come to trucks till 87.
You can rent the 2 DVD set here: http://smartflix.com/store/video/565...el-Replacement
Buy it here: http://www.paintucation.com/
Flange tool I have: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
IMO budget is critical. These project can get way out of hand. I have know guys that blew their budget for the whole car just in sheet metal. Ends up taking 5 years to finish the car. I know even the 5 years is not to bad its just life changes a lot in five years and you end up selling a 50% done project for half your cash out lay and forget any labor value.
Your engine should be fine. The first year for computers in trucks was 86 and that was just spark timing. Fuel injection did not come to trucks till 87.
You can rent the 2 DVD set here: http://smartflix.com/store/video/565...el-Replacement
Buy it here: http://www.paintucation.com/
Flange tool I have: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
#13
01-06-2008, 05:02 PM
RE: Gman's '69 Project "BumbleBee"
Gman, it's your car - your project but it sure is nice to get all the blasting done first. It helps in the removal of the old sheet metal and installing new. It will give you an immediate view of what is bad. I do agree with Blade on cost. Doing a budget is great, don't forget the small things though (filler, primer and the such).
#14
01-06-2008, 09:44 PM
RE: Gman's '69 Project "BumbleBee"
ORIGINAL: Gorn
I am glad to hear you know what you got into. I would like to recommend a how to video for you. Paintucation-Pannel replacement they take you step by step on how to get that perfect replacement panel fit. They also show you how to replace the whole thing and even how to use epoxies. He is not doing a Camaro in the video but a Mustang. He does stress how important it is to maintain unibody strength. That will be critical with a Big Block.
IMO budget is critical. These project can get way out of hand. I have know guys that blew their budget for the whole car just in sheet metal. Ends up taking 5 years to finish the car. I know even the 5 years is not to bad its just life changes a lot in five years and you end up selling a 50% done project for half your cash out lay and forget any labor value.
Your engine should be fine. The first year for computers in trucks was 86 and that was just spark timing. Fuel injection did not come to trucks till 87.
You can rent the 2 DVD set here: http://smartflix.com/store/video/565...el-Replacement
Buy it here: http://www.paintucation.com/
Flange tool I have: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
I am glad to hear you know what you got into. I would like to recommend a how to video for you. Paintucation-Pannel replacement they take you step by step on how to get that perfect replacement panel fit. They also show you how to replace the whole thing and even how to use epoxies. He is not doing a Camaro in the video but a Mustang. He does stress how important it is to maintain unibody strength. That will be critical with a Big Block.
IMO budget is critical. These project can get way out of hand. I have know guys that blew their budget for the whole car just in sheet metal. Ends up taking 5 years to finish the car. I know even the 5 years is not to bad its just life changes a lot in five years and you end up selling a 50% done project for half your cash out lay and forget any labor value.
Your engine should be fine. The first year for computers in trucks was 86 and that was just spark timing. Fuel injection did not come to trucks till 87.
You can rent the 2 DVD set here: http://smartflix.com/store/video/565...el-Replacement
Buy it here: http://www.paintucation.com/
Flange tool I have: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41696
Gorn, I ordered up the vids.. I think my problem is mostly I get in a hurry. Be nice to learn how the pro's do metal work. Thanks for the tip.
JRs72RS, I would like nothing better than to have my body soda blasted. But from what I see from others projects, this costs about $1500 bucks and that is a lot of dough. I have my little blaster from Harbor Freight and plan to do the blasting as I can.I might check on how much it will cost toblast the bottom only. I can not even imagine sand blasting under this car... that would be a nightmare. I wish I could afford a Rottisorie like these other guys have and turn this car on its side.. anyone got any great ideas on how to get this car up off the ground to do undercarraige work?
#15
01-07-2008, 06:29 AM
RE: Gman's '69 Project "BumbleBee"
ORIGINAL: iamgman
Blade, I hope to prove you wrong Remember, I am not aftera show car, but rather a driver that is solidly built that I can drive in this lifetime and not get a divorce in the process. This car is probably too far gone to be a show car anyway.. well, without dumping more money into it that it could ever be sold for and I am not all about that.I am going to hold my guesstimate$10k for now.. and that includes the $1,500 purchase price 
I will do up a budget like Gorn says..
Oh, the 454, I mentionedalreadythat it is acarbureted motor, it is the year before they went to fuel injection on the suburban so the guy told me. I am hoping that engine and tranny will just fall into this car with some mods that we discussed in my previous post.. change heater panel, motor mounts, tranny mount, pedals, etc. I just hope the mounts on the motor are the same as the early big blocks..???
ORIGINAL: Blade
the 454 will fit in the car, u just have to pull all the fuel injection stuff off the top of the motor and put a carb. Budget? I am sorry but I get a good laugh at people who are building the a car. I mean think u have the most expensive hobbit in the world. I had one of those too. Check out my car there is a update thread in 1st gen section, I have 13k just how it sits NOW!
the 454 will fit in the car, u just have to pull all the fuel injection stuff off the top of the motor and put a carb. Budget? I am sorry but I get a good laugh at people who are building the a car. I mean think u have the most expensive hobbit in the world. I had one of those too. Check out my car there is a update thread in 1st gen section, I have 13k just how it sits NOW!
Remember, I am not aftera show car, but rather a driver that is solidly built that I can drive in this lifetime and not get a divorce in the process. This car is probably too far gone to be a show car anyway.. well, without dumping more money into it that it could ever be sold for and I am not all about that.I am going to hold my guesstimate$10k for now.. and that includes the $1,500 purchase price I will do up a budget like Gorn says..Oh, the 454, I mentionedalreadythat it is acarbureted motor, it is the year before they went to fuel injection on the suburban so the guy told me. I am hoping that engine and tranny will just fall into this car with some mods that we discussed in my previous post.. change heater panel, motor mounts, tranny mount, pedals, etc. I just hope the mounts on the motor are the same as the early big blocks..???
#16
01-07-2008, 10:16 AM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: The 'Burbs of Chicago
Posts: 18,306
RE: Gman's '69 Project "BumbleBee"
ORIGINAL: Blade
Do u know ifu have a big block car? All u have to do is put in bb motor mounts, and change the trans the cross member
Do u know ifu have a big block car? All u have to do is put in bb motor mounts, and change the trans the cross member
#17
01-07-2008, 10:33 AM
RE: Gman's '69 Project "BumbleBee"
ORIGINAL: Camaro 69
Small block. He has the "dimpled" engine frame brackets that were unique to the Z/28 302 and SS 350. That was discussed in his "what did I buy" post.
ORIGINAL: Blade
Do u know ifu have a big block car? All u have to do is put in bb motor mounts, and change the trans the cross member
Do u know ifu have a big block car? All u have to do is put in bb motor mounts, and change the trans the cross member
#18
01-08-2008, 03:14 PM
RE: Gman's '69 Project "BumbleBee"
I am currently using a poor mans rottisorie, I have a 4x4 12 ft long bolted to the rafters of my garage. One in front of the car, one in the rear. Each 4x4 has 2 eyebolts (bolts go all the way thru and bolt to backside, not the screw in type) then I welded up some brackets to where the front clip bots in and two for the rear going to the frame rail.
Each of those brackets have eyebolts welded into it. Then you run some heavy duty rope from left front body mount to 4x4 eyebolt left front; then to 4x4 eyebolt right front and down to the right front body mount. Repeat for the back. Then jack it up in the air and tie off the rope.
Now to spin it all I have to do is pull in on one rope toward the center of the car, which raises it in the air, creating a short rope on one side, and a longer rope bent in where you are pulling on it, when you release, the short rope stays and the longer rope extends and you have spun the car.
It won't get you 90 degree's, but I am in the process of replacing the floorpans, and I have it at about a 45 degree angle, easy access, cost me about 50 from lumberyard.
As for safety, I have oneside of the cartouching 4x4 blocks on the floor and longer lengths cut for the side that is in the air when I am banging, cutting, grinding, etc. on it.
It also is a great for stange looks and conversation from people passing by.
Each of those brackets have eyebolts welded into it. Then you run some heavy duty rope from left front body mount to 4x4 eyebolt left front; then to 4x4 eyebolt right front and down to the right front body mount. Repeat for the back. Then jack it up in the air and tie off the rope.
Now to spin it all I have to do is pull in on one rope toward the center of the car, which raises it in the air, creating a short rope on one side, and a longer rope bent in where you are pulling on it, when you release, the short rope stays and the longer rope extends and you have spun the car.
It won't get you 90 degree's, but I am in the process of replacing the floorpans, and I have it at about a 45 degree angle, easy access, cost me about 50 from lumberyard.
As for safety, I have oneside of the cartouching 4x4 blocks on the floor and longer lengths cut for the side that is in the air when I am banging, cutting, grinding, etc. on it.
It also is a great for stange looks and conversation from people passing by.
#19
01-09-2008, 11:26 PM
RE: Gman's '69 Project "BumbleBee"
Dude, that sounds nutty...But if it works....
About that air tool... That thing is probably the best thing money can buy. I like the hole punch for punching holes (haha) for plug welding. It is perfect and cuts like butter. I ended up getting mine through Eastwood because it has a 5/16" hole instead of the 3/16" at HF. Still it's a good tool...
A bit of advice though, take your time and do it right the FIRST TIME. It is easier to take metal off than it is to put it back on. If you get to a part that looks difficult or you get hung up, lure your friends over with the idea that they will drink your beer and then check out your project and ping them for ideas. esp. if you know somebody who knows what they are doing...
It does look like you got a decent car though.... a lot of work though....
About that air tool... That thing is probably the best thing money can buy. I like the hole punch for punching holes (haha) for plug welding. It is perfect and cuts like butter. I ended up getting mine through Eastwood because it has a 5/16" hole instead of the 3/16" at HF. Still it's a good tool...
A bit of advice though, take your time and do it right the FIRST TIME. It is easier to take metal off than it is to put it back on. If you get to a part that looks difficult or you get hung up, lure your friends over with the idea that they will drink your beer and then check out your project and ping them for ideas. esp. if you know somebody who knows what they are doing...
It does look like you got a decent car though.... a lot of work though....
#20
01-09-2008, 11:56 PM
RE: Gman's '69 Project "BumbleBee"
ORIGINAL: SS396
I am currently using a poor mans rottisorie, I have a 4x4 12 ft long bolted to the rafters of my garage. One in front of the car, one in the rear. Each 4x4 has 2 eyebolts (bolts go all the way thru and bolt to backside, not the screw in type) then I welded up some brackets to where the front clip bots in and two for the rear going to the frame rail.
Each of those brackets have eyebolts welded into it. Then you run some heavy duty rope from left front body mount to 4x4 eyebolt left front; then to 4x4 eyebolt right front and down to the right front body mount. Repeat for the back. Then jack it up in the air and tie off the rope.
Now to spin it all I have to do is pull in on one rope toward the center of the car, which raises it in the air, creating a short rope on one side, and a longer rope bent in where you are pulling on it, when you release, the short rope stays and the longer rope extends and you have spun the car.
It won't get you 90 degree's, but I am in the process of replacing the floorpans, and I have it at about a 45 degree angle, easy access, cost me about 50 from lumberyard.
As for safety, I have oneside of the cartouching 4x4 blocks on the floor and longer lengths cut for the side that is in the air when I am banging, cutting, grinding, etc. on it.
It also is a great for stange looks and conversation from people passing by.
I am currently using a poor mans rottisorie, I have a 4x4 12 ft long bolted to the rafters of my garage. One in front of the car, one in the rear. Each 4x4 has 2 eyebolts (bolts go all the way thru and bolt to backside, not the screw in type) then I welded up some brackets to where the front clip bots in and two for the rear going to the frame rail.
Each of those brackets have eyebolts welded into it. Then you run some heavy duty rope from left front body mount to 4x4 eyebolt left front; then to 4x4 eyebolt right front and down to the right front body mount. Repeat for the back. Then jack it up in the air and tie off the rope.
Now to spin it all I have to do is pull in on one rope toward the center of the car, which raises it in the air, creating a short rope on one side, and a longer rope bent in where you are pulling on it, when you release, the short rope stays and the longer rope extends and you have spun the car.
It won't get you 90 degree's, but I am in the process of replacing the floorpans, and I have it at about a 45 degree angle, easy access, cost me about 50 from lumberyard.
As for safety, I have oneside of the cartouching 4x4 blocks on the floor and longer lengths cut for the side that is in the air when I am banging, cutting, grinding, etc. on it.
It also is a great for stange looks and conversation from people passing by.
But you did give me a good idea for setting up my garage withmy own poor mans rottisorie.