bilstein engine flush for my 69SS
 

after mixed opinions about an engine flush, i took my ss350 camaro in for the service. with 55k original miles on it i was told by some that after nearly 40 years, i should leave it alone.auto service techs did recommend it, and i was sold when i was told there would be an increase in compression due to piston oil rings being freed up from engine gunk. what a difference! increased power, better cooling,smoother start ups,and a very smoothand healthy sounding engine. but, i noticed about3-4 psi drop in oil preasure (remains about 40 psi at 55mph), and an increase in oil consumption about 1/2 qt -1000 miles (no smoke from engine exhaust). could i be dealing with valve guide seal issue?thanks

RE: bilstein engine flush for my 69SS
 

By "flush" are you talking about the oil, coolant or both? 40 Years is a long time to NOT conduct servicing, even though it only has 55k, the stuff breaks down over time.
Are you the first owner? A car shouldn't consume that much oil with only 55k miles on it. I think I am totaly missunderstanding your question - You only have 55k but recently had it serviced and have already driven it enough since the flush to know that it consumes 1/2 qt every 1000 miles?
I wouldnt worry about the oil presure. 30 is the lowest acceptable tolerance ( for myself) before buying a new oil pump.

RE: bilstein engine flush for my 69SS
 

thanks for your info. its the bilstein engine oil flush for about $140 and about a 2 hr process. coolant will be later.i am the 2nd owner and bought the car last summer with 51k miles, and the car came with most service records late 80's till now, and originalprotecto plate/warranty card. the original owner was in his late 70's and took great care of the car. he never had the motor rebuilt and hestessed that the odom never rolled, but i cannot verify. i am planning to pay for history check on the car. the car was stored for about 12 years 89-01. there are nooil leaks any where and i am still surprised by that. anyway, thanks again.
(google "bilstein engine flush" and a ton ofinfo will show up.)

RE: bilstein engine flush for my 69SS
 

First, I want to share some tech with CplThomas. I recently talked to a old timer GM mechanic about low oil pressure in my truck motor. He said the Oil Pump does NOT make the pressure. The pump simply moves the oil through the engine. Oil pressure is determined by the bearing clearances and will be lower if the crank or cam are worn, or in my case a missing plug from the shop. So when your oil pressure drops, it's probably time to replace the bearings and possibly drop in a new cam or have the crank ground for larger bearings.

As for the "Flush System" I found this article online and think it sums up my thoughts about this system.

Dear Tom and Ray:

I have a question about engine flushing. The other day, I went to my usual mechanic for my 3,000-mile oil change and tire rotation, and he tried to sell me on a "Bilstein Engine Flush." He showed me a vial of sludgy black liquid, presumably from some poor schnook's fouled engine, and another vial of clear, amber fluid, presumably the "after" effect. My question is, of course, is it worth it to get this flush, or am I just wasting $60? -- Terence

RAY: I hope he didn't steal those sample containers from his doctor's office, Terence. Or swap them by accident. Can you imagine some poor guy right now, sitting across from his doctor, getting the bad news that he has a blown head gasket?

Beat up old carTOM: Actually, Terence, we've found that the number of mechanics who recommend engine flushes is directly proportional to the number who are making payments on an engine-flushing machine.
RAY: It's certainly not going to hurt your engine, Terence. But in the absence of any evidence that your engine is full of crud, I'm not sure it's really necessary.

TOM: An engine flush is a machine that removes your oil and runs a heated solvent through the all of the places where the oil flows before adding back new oil. Supposedly, it removes any gunked-up oil and varnish that are clogging up your oil passages. Bilstein is the reputable company -- best known for its shock absorbers -- that makes this machine.

RAY: I have no doubt that it works. But if you've been changing your oil every 3,000 miles -- or even every 7,500 miles -- you really shouldn't have any gunked-up oil in there in the first place.

TOM: If your brain had been taken over by space aliens and you had "forgotten" to change your oil for the past 30,000 miles, then I think a complete engine flush would be in order. But I just don't know if doing it as "preventive maintenance" is really necessary.

RAY: It's necessary for the guy who bought the machine and needs to make his money back. But I'd say it's overkill for most people, Terence.


If you take apart you motor, the piston rings are in contact with the cylinder walls. If they begin to oval then you will get some bleed-by and lower cylinder compression, but no system of cleaning is going to fix that. It the placebo effect.

RE: bilstein engine flush for my 69SS
 

thanks for the relpies, its helped. it appears that i may have spent too much for the bilstein engine flush, but i'd do it for my camaro vs my daily work truck. anyway, so does 40 psioil pressure @ 55 mph/2800 rpm and 33-35 psi @ idle sound normal?
next ill be checking cylinder compresion. thanks
(your LBG site is great. will watch for more episodes)

RE: bilstein engine flush for my 69SS
 

That pressure sounds about right.

RE: bilstein engine flush for my 69SS
 

Thanks for the info. I always wondered if there wasnt more to it. I am off to research this whole thing now.

RE: bilstein engine flush for my 69SS
 

No Problem.

RE: bilstein engine flush for my 69SS
 

for a stock pump that is fine pressure, I would even say that the idle pressure is a little on the higher side (compare to the pressure while driving)

RE: bilstein engine flush for my 69SS
 

thanks for the info. i'll check the pressure later on, when i get a chance. i think the pressure @ idle is more around 32-34. the stock rear is 3:07, which i plan to pull out and shelve for a more highway/mpg friendly rear dif. any suggestions?