automatic acceleration issue, scarey too... Please help
#11
Looks like prothane mounts I like them and they are very sturdy. The HEI distributor does not fit on these cars so yes someone pounded out a dent to fit it, my preference is the HEI but did not want to beat the firewall to make it fit. Check the trans mount it is usually as bad as the motor mounts and its cheap insurance. Changing it thankfully is much easier then the motor mounts. As long as your checking things check the bushing in the pedal linkage they are cheap and make a world of difference with the pedal. It looks good and glad to see your on top of the problem....
#12
I will be looking into the trans mount next, definitely wouldn't mind some insurance. Went out for a drive today and there may be a slight increase in vibration from the prothane mounts, but it is amazing the difference in the car and how much better it feels to drive her. This was my first true work on a vehicle beyond the normal oil change or brake pad change and it was a joy to learn the car and feel accomplished afterwards without creating more problems. This forum was a great help. Now... next driveability issue is the exhaust, and that will probably be a Christmas gift to myself, but the exhaust on the car is pretty terrible, it is so close to the ground I scrape everywhere...Anyone have any suggestions on headers that are around $400 that will fit with power steering? any pros/cons i'm not seeing vs stock cast iron manifolds? My thinking is, if i'm changing the exhaust I might as well change add headers now since it seems like the exhaust would have to be modified to fit headers regardless. All the help I've received on this forum is greatly appreciated!!!
#14
Good job. I see the picture of pass side, the fuel pump is out.
As a tip, motor mount bolt was installed wrong - bolthead should point to the rear and nut next to f/pump - no removal of f/pump next time.
Drvr side has bolthead tot he front of Camaro.
The broken isolator removed is of the second design - interlocking style as its prevents any further movement. Older design did not have the lock, so when it did break and gas pedal went to WOT, the fan hit the shroud, the upper rad hose was stretched and some came off, and engine laid over and throttle stuck.
Hence the cable recall of 1969 came about.
As a tip, motor mount bolt was installed wrong - bolthead should point to the rear and nut next to f/pump - no removal of f/pump next time.
Drvr side has bolthead tot he front of Camaro.
The broken isolator removed is of the second design - interlocking style as its prevents any further movement. Older design did not have the lock, so when it did break and gas pedal went to WOT, the fan hit the shroud, the upper rad hose was stretched and some came off, and engine laid over and throttle stuck.
Hence the cable recall of 1969 came about.
#15
Makes me wonder which (possibly wrong ones) engine frame brackets/motor mounts were used when your 6 banger to V8 conversion was done. When I helped my brother drop an HEI distributor into his bone stock 68 (yeah wrong year, lol), it fit like a glove with plenty of firewall clearance. Or, is it possible there's a factory distributor clearancing difference between the 67 & 68 firewall?
#16
This is my 4th first gen Camaro and 8th overall. I know now there is a new HEI that is narrower then the old ones. I don't know if those fit or how much smaller they are. I know summit will tell you in a first gen Camaro the distributor has clearance issues. We also had offset motor mounts that moved the motor 1/4 to 1/2 inch forward and then the HEI cleared. But my experience is limited to small blocks and don't ever remember a issue with big blocks.. I remember the knock from under the car when the rear trans mount let go, the old style.
#17
I believe there is a difference in the frame mounts between 307/327 sets the engine forward and 302/350 set the engine back closer to firewall.
I believe the diff is 1 inch.
There will be clearance if the V-belt on the first sheave of the OE crank pulley is above the OE swaybar.
I believe the diff is 1 inch.
There will be clearance if the V-belt on the first sheave of the OE crank pulley is above the OE swaybar.
#18
Everett, this time i did install the bolt properly on the passengers side but after reading your post i installed the drivers side the same way, with bolt to the rear and nut at the front. Hope this doesn't cause me any issues. I noticed the frame stands did seem tall, but i really don't want to change anything since the car is running and all seems well the way it is minus distributor hugging the firewall a bit. I would look into swapping the distributor down the road to one with a smaller diameter if that would help clearance issues. This is my first older car and i LOVE it... even with the things that go wrong and not running perfect, there's just something about tinkering with it and fixing things that is really enjoyable. That and every time i go somewhere someone waves or tells me it's a nice car.
#19
I did the distributor replacement about a month ago went with the MSD billet ready to run added a MSD 6a I had laying around and ordered new wires custom fit.. It all came out ok and they work well .. Everything clears also..