Hi, first post, 2 day old 1968 Camaro owner (first one). I have some big plans, but I need help on an engine symptom before I start ripping into other areas of the car.

The car turns on fine, it idles fine, in park and neutral when you hit the gas it sounds strong and powerful. However, once you stick it into drive and hit the gas it sputters or runs rough. The transmission is automatic, it goes into gear smoothly with no jolting or delay. I'm sorry but this is the only symptom i have to go on right now.

I'm not mechanically inclined, but i'm learning as I go.

Does anybody have any ideas about what might cause the car to sputter in drive, but rev normal in park or neutral? I was told that it could need a top end rebuild, but I'm not sure if this is true or what this really consists of.

I appreciate anyones help on this.

Thanks,
Ramien

 

check the distributor cap for cracks.
check the plug wires for wear.

heck, you just bought the car....replace everything and you'll know it was done and at what mileage it was done. Spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, all hoses, raditor fluid, oil, brake fluid....everything.

Carb might need a rebuild as well.

 

Check the ignition timing,might just need a small adjustment.
Certainly a tune up would probably go a long way towards a good running car but the first thing I'd do is pull the sparkplugs all out and do a compression test to see if the engine is basically sound.
No sense spending a bunch of money on tune up parts for a tired engine that needs to be rebuilt.

 

If you just bought it a few days ago I recomend a complete tune up, oil change etc.

 

look for cracks or missing vaccum line that runs from intake to trans.
any type of vaccum hose on engine with a leak for that matter.
did it do this when you bought it or did it just start doing it?

 

Thanks everyone, I've taken your suggestions and decided to replace the dist, coil, plugs, lines, manifold and carb. The only problem with the upgrade is that the oil filler is on the top of the engine in the front, does this mean I need a special manifold to allow the filler tube to protrude?

Thanks,
Ramien

 

That or get valve covers for a 350 with the oil filler cap and pcv connection port.
You can just get a breather cap for the pcv if you don't want to run a hose,you can also get one for the oil cap.

 

Given the option, you definitely want to keep a PCV valve hooked up.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation is better for the engine and seals, as opposed to just having a breather in the valve cover.
PCV valve in one cover, breather in the other.

 

have to agree with camaro69 on this one!!
heres how my 68 is set up it has a pushin (breather looking) pcv in the drivers side
and an actual breather on the pass. side

 

when you decide to swap out intakes i may be interested in the one on your car now as i have the original 327 ,heads,valve covers for my 68 sitting in my shop but no intake or carb?
where are you at?
any pics of your engine?
thanks Tony