It will depend on the body, A soild body with all the RS parts can go 5-6K without a motor. With the numbers matching motor adds value. Its not a amazing deal but it is a decent deal if you don't have to install frame rails and floors. Of course your going to want to make an offer. You are going to have to get under it and if you don't know what to look for you should find someone that does. There are many base model RS's sitting in garages that are not worth fixing. They are too far gone.

Now if it is a L30 with the munice and the 12 bolt rear you should wear a mask when you hand him the cash cause you are stealing it.

 

the tag reads

07B D
67-12437 NOR152355 BODY
741-Z R-2 PAINT
2B 3SL

BODY BY FISHER

motor # is 3782870

munice tranny

im not sure what these numbers mean.

Any help is appreciated.

 

Block casting 3782870: 1962-67 327, 250-375 hp, 2 bolt main block.
There is also a date casting on the top of the bellhousing flange, either center or passenger side.
To narrow it down more, look for some stamped numbers on a pad in front of the passenger side head which would have your partial VIN, and production numbers with a suffix code (letters).
There should be something there, unless the block has been decked.

Here's the decode on your trim tag:

 

Like I said there are few secrets with the 67, We know its not a L30 because it came with a 3 speed. We know the head rests are not orginal. If it is numbers matching V8 RS and the frame rails and floors are not too bad and he has most of the parts then his $7000 number is not far off the current market around me. You should see if he will work with you on the price. You are not getting a super deal at 7K.

The number matching is not a huge value unless you plan on restoring the car orginal. If not I would plan on tucking the engine and tranny away that way you can build something fun and if you screw up You have not messed up the option for an orginal restoration down the road.

 

we went and looked at body today. it is rough! had vinyl top, so rusted under that pretty good. however he has full rear fenders so all the rust will be gone with the new fenders. the overall condition of roof and window areas are pretty good. the floor is pretty bad. the hump down the center is good, but the rest needs replaced. maybe buying a 1 piece floor would be the way to go on this one. the trunk floor is pretty bad also.

might be smarter to find better body, probably tough to find though, and wont be numbers matching either i guess. just throwing out ideas.

we looked over parts also. he has new full rear fenders, new front fenders, new rear piece that hold taillights, new rockers,original hood,used doors that are ready to mount, most trim pieces new, original interior, looks like he has most items, but im sure more to get yet.

he was talking $5000 today. if i stick with this body, i should rebuild the original 327 dont you think? also should stick with original red with black vinyl top.

what would this car be worth done? i wont sell it, however would like to know the value when done. the seats that came with car had headrests, however the tags say no headrest correct? they must have added those later?? the owner also said 4 speed, but tag says 3 speed??

i am pretty confused!

thanks,
matt

 

Nothing to be confused about. Some owners have a tendency to change things along the way, and 45 years gives plenty of time to make changes.
A previous owner wanted headrests, so added them. Same with the 4 speed trans upgrade.
I can guarantee you there a few minor things on my car that weren't that way when it rolled off the assembly line!

 

Just a heads up the rear "fenders" are not fenders, they are quarter pannels. They do not unbolt they are part of the stucture of the car. They need to be cut away and welded back in. If the floors are bad you need to look at the frame rails real close. If the frame rails need to be replaced you are talking a lot of higher end body work and ALOT of hours. Patching a quater pannel is one thing for a newbee, Installing a floor, quarters and frame rails means you are building the car. It should be built on a full size Jig. You have anything jacked wrong or out of square the car will not go together and will never go stright down the road.

To have all those things replace expect about 80-120 hours of a bodymans time. That does not cover perp or final paint. That is just the metal work. Anyone can install a fender with a little trial and error, when your welding in metal trial and error can be a problem. Like I said before there are alot of V8 RS that are sitting in garages that are not worth fixing. IMO in the frame rails are not savable this car falls into that group.

Finished your looking at $16,000- $19,000 value depending on how good you do on the restore. You will be lucky to break even not counting ther hours you put in to it. If your looking for a "car" keep looking, If you want a project to learn on and spend the next 4 year building yourself you may have the right car. 5 years ago the title and the vin tags were worth $4000.

Since this car is not rare having the matching number is a plus but if you want to drive the car your going to have to worry about over heating or something going wrong, if it fails bad enough it can not be fixed. But if the motor is known good and sitting in a crate it is safe and it can always become a retored car down the road. It just depends on what you want to do with it.

 

Restoration is lots of fun and fulfilment, but with it comes lots of time,labor and a ton of money; not to mention frustration...and bandaids!
I have a 67 rs body without any rust at all. Frame is in great condition. All body panels are installed,primered and ready to paint.
floor pans and trunk floor were rhino lined and looks freshly done.
the body and frame is straight, one will be hard pressed to find another one in this good of condition.
If interested at $6500..Good luck with the project if you get it.
car is garage stored in Norfolk, VA
Alex222river@gmail.com
252.297.6575

 

Phil-

i forgot to ask: what kind of shape were the floors like before rhino-lined?

that seems like a fair price for sure. what does everyone think? you guys know more about prices than i do.

how hard is it to install one piece floors? if i continue with my current project that would be an option for me. although the guy already has the individual floor pieces that you weld in. or would it be better and easier to go with the one piece floor. one thing that makes me nervous is getting everything back to original positions before welding the floor in? anyone have much experience with this?

thanks,
matt

 

I would feel better about doing the floor in section. That way there is less chance of the body twisting on you. There is a lot to explain on how to deal with body twist during major repairs. There are whole books written on it. We are not going to be able to explain how to do it in a thread.

Is your goal to learn how to do this stuff or are you just trying to save money and own a 1st gen? There are a lot of unfinished project floating around. Some of these project guys have 20K invested and you can buy them for 12-15K. Your going to have a really tuff time building even a solid shell for 12K. Just check out some of the build threads on this site. I see it a lot , guy put a year or two into a project and they just get sick of it. There is just so many details so many hours they don't even want to see the car anymore. That is when you can save a lot of money. Divorce projects are also great deals.

What people forget to calculate when looking at a project is a the little stuff that was most likely discarded while the car was being torn a part. Little clips and brackets, even bolts and washer. You will find yourself and the parts store or hardward stop every weekend shelling out $25-$30 every trip. If you truly tracked all the money spent during a build you would find it is much cheaper to just buy a finished or almost finished car. One that "just needs a motor" is sooo much less work then buying a shell. You are talking one weekend vs 50 weekends.