So that makes two votes for points and condenser. I've had condensers crap put on me before for no apparent reason. I'd suspect that before the points or cap, as those two would be more likely to make the engine run crappy, but still run. I don't spose you ever considered changing over to an HEI distributor? You'd notice a night and day difference both in performance and easier/quicker cold starts.

 

Gad I hate points! I had a 66 El Camino with points and my 68 GTO before I went electronic Ignition... If they burn out, bang.. no spark. If they are gapped to wide, bang.. no spark. If they are out of alignment, bang.. you guessed it.. no spark. Everything checks out but condenser is bad, which of course there isn't a way to test it other than replacing it along side the road... no spark. An extra set of points was a standard part of the tool box lol!

Nice thing about em was you could gap them with a book of matches. Hey, can you even get a book of matches anymore?

 

I really can't see if there's any spark at the points when I open them with the cap off. That probably doesn't matter if you read on. I did the spark plug in the coil lead thing described in the insert in "StoveBolts" post. No spark at all. So I checked terminal to ground voltage at both the (+) and (-) coil terminals with key on. I got .5V on the negative side and 4.7V on the primary side.

In "Start" mode these same readings are: (-) = .4V, and (+) = 8V ( + was 9V yesterday - battery could be fading).

I also checked battery post on starter solenoid to ground with key on and got 10V. The "R" terminal on solenoid to ground with key on gets 4.7V. Does that mean I'm losing 5V or 6V through the brand new solenoid - or can I be losing something in the starter itself?

Also, after all the work yesterday, the battery today shows 10.4V and it drops to 9V during cranking. Have in on trickle charge and when one of our vehicles returns I plan to jumper it to a running vehicle to get maximum power from the battery - see if that makes a difference.

BOTTOM LINE - WE HAVE 10.5V OR SO GOING INTO THE SOLENOID AND LESS THAN 5V COMING OUT TO THE "R" TERMINAL ON THE SOLENOID AND GOING ON TO THE COIL (+).

Just did the jumper cables and it made no difference in spark or voltage readings at coil terminals in on or start position.

I noticed that when I accidentally had the meter probes reversed I got -13.4V during "Start" position, but when I correctly put the black probe to ground and red to the (+) on the coil it was back to 8.4V.

 

Yeah, you need a strong battery charge before trying anything else. Some of those low voltage wire readings makes a little more sense now, knowing your battery is that low. A fully charged battery, at rest, should be reading 12 plus volts.

 

But even if the battery is 10V and it's 10V at the stud on the solenoid, why would I get 5.7V at the "R" term on the solenoid? It's losing something, like there's a partial short in the starter or something?

 

It's natural for the voltage from a full battery to drop when starting, due to the amp draw of the starter motor. Now start with a weaker battery, and your power drop will be greater still.

 

But the drop I'm talking about is when just sitting there - key off.

Wait - got that wrong. As posted earlier, with key "ON" only - no starting, I get 10V at the Bat Term on the solenoid and 4.7V at the "R" term on the solenoid.

 

The reading you're getting at the "R" terminal is power that's being fed from the resistance wire that's also connected to the (+) coil (resistance wire and wire from starter on same terminal). Since you're getting 10V at the starter cable, are you also getting 10V or so at the battery? You already said the battery is running low.

 

Yes, getting 10V at battery and at starter cable. When I said battery was low I meant 10V being lower than 12V I would have expected. So the 4.7V at "R" is actually coming back from the coil. Then when I go to "Start" I get 8V at the coil (+) and probably also at the "R"? But 8V is not enough to throw ANY spark?

This is making my head hurt. I give up. I'll trailer it to the shop next week.

 

Basically, yes to what you just said. But you're not getting sufficient power to the ignition because your battery is weak. Try jump starting it before taking it in. If still nothing, try different points and condenser. Oh, and take an aspirin first.