new to forum, hope you can help. I have a very nice 1969 Z-11 Pace Car. 350, manual w/factory A/C. I've owned this for about 10 years. It has always run like a brand new car. Engine was completely overhauled and jacked up to 375 horse about 9,000 miles ago - by a trade school in MN under previous owner. I have put less than 1,000 miles on it in ten years.

I have completely replaced everything under the car and 100% of the interior. It was still running like a champ when I decided, two years ago, I had to pull the drive train to completely recondition the engine compartment. Got that done and it involved basically replacing every bolt-on component under the hood. New power brake booster and all brake related components, voltage regulator, alternator, A/C compressor & hoses and every other A/C or heat related component, heater hoses, belts, plugs, wires, horn relay, junction block, wire harnesses, headlight door kit, complete new cowl induction kit(not installed yet) - just about anything you can buy under the hood.

The car had no cowl induction kit when I bought it and I haven't installed the new one yet - it ran great without it for years.

I have put this thing all back together and it looks like show room condition - except for the minor fact that it won't start!!!! Turns over great. When I pull the lead out of the center of the distributor and hold it near ground there is no spark. If I pull #1 plug and hold it on ground there is no spark. I have replaced: battery, junction block, battery cables, coil(twice), everything in the distributor, plugs and wires. Ignition switch and start/solenoid are original.

During this reconditioning I completely stripped the engine compartment, repainted everything with all the correct colors, replaced almost every fastener and clip, and started replacing components and putting it all back together. I did not do anything to the internals of the engine because it was already like new. Worst was pulling the distributor for reconditioning and, yes the engine was cranked manually while the distributor was out, but I know how to get that back in timed correctly(i.e. at 11 degrees before TDC on compression stroke the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug position in the cap.)

I have tried everything I can think of.

Where can I find a step-by-step process for how to start at the correct beginning and troubleshoot my way through every possible source to fix this. I'm concerned it's something stupid like new paint is not letting some ground wire achieve ground. I'm completely lost.

Very much appreciate any help.

 

Start with the basics, have you checked to make sure you have switched power at the (+) terminal on the coil? Electronic ignition or points & condenser?

 

It has stock points and condensor. It does have a questionable looking wire running from "R" on solenoid up to (+) on coil, so I ran a brand new wire in parallel.

How would I check switched power at (+) on Coil?

 

Ok, since you have points, you need to keep those two wires hooked up to the (+) on the coil. The main run wire is a resistance wire, which feeds about 10 volts to the coil. DO NOT run a full 12 volts to the coil, or you will burn up the points in no time. The "R" starter solenoid wire feeds the coil a full 12 volts, only while you're cranking the engine over. The reason for that is to overcome the power draw from the starter, and if you don't have that wire connected, the engine may not start for lack of power to the coil. Test both wires with a volt meter, with them disconnected from the coil. The main wire should have 10 volts or less when the key is in the "run" (on) position, and the wire from the starter should have 12 volts when the key is in the "start" position.

 

I got 9.7 V on main wire in "ON" position, and V on the solenoid wire during "Start" Now what?

 

Huh? How many?

 

Sorry - 8V on solenoid wire in "Start" position.

 

First check the terminal right at the starter to make sure it's putting out 12V as it should be. Then run a new clean wire to the coil if the starter checks out. That wire shouldn't have low voltage.

 

It's 8V right at the terminal at the solenoid. I grounded one probe and put the other directly on the terminal, without removing any wires. Don't have to remove the wire, right? What does this low reading mean? Bad solenoid or starter?

 

Are you sure all the grounds have been reattached? And if they are, not painted over where they need to make contact? You said it is turning over great, so no problem with the starter.