1969 DZ302 numbers match but no X code on cowl buck tag
#1
1969 DZ302 numbers match but no X code on cowl buck tag
I'm a newbie, I'd like to pick some brain's here. I have a 1969 Z28 with a 302 - 4speed - 12 bolt posi - front disc brakes. Special order yellow with black stripes with black vinyl top. Non cowl hood. Front and rear spoilers. 63,000 original miles. The vin numbers all match on the engine block and transmission. I cannot bust down the rust scale on the rear axle tube to see any numbers. It has the snow flake intake, aftermarket holley carb. V1I16DZ engine stamping. Correct camel hump heads with 3927186 and J91 8 casting numbers. Everyone that looks at the car tell's me it's not a real Z28 because there are no X codes on the data plate on the cowl. Norwood built car, 3rd week of November. ST 69 12437 NOR162446. 711 interior trim. 11C. and -- B are the only things stamped on the cowl tag. Any idea's?
#2
Sounds like a nice car you have there. You must have an earlier production car then. Chevy didn't start putting the X code designation on the trim tag till later in the production year.
Having a "true numbers matching" DZ engine is what determines the car to be a Z/28, period.
Having a "true numbers matching" DZ engine is what determines the car to be a Z/28, period.
#3
It is my understanding that all Norwood built Z/28 cars were stamped with either an X33 or X77. It is built late in the year, 3rd week of November. Maybe because it was a special ordered color they missed the X stamp? My other thought is to drop the gas tank and look for a built sheet.
#5
Around the 2nd week of December: http://www.camaros.org/numbers.shtml#XnnCodes
Are you concerned that the stampings on your block might be counterfeit?
Are you concerned that the stampings on your block might be counterfeit?
#7
Exactly right. X codes did not appear until almost 1969. If your engine stamp matches the VIN then the proof is in the pudding.
#8
i am by no means saying that your car is not authentic but simply stateing things i have noticed over the past few yrs.
the last 3 engines i had built at 3 different shops all asked for a small fee if i would like the block restamped to match the car!!?? and i am sure there are thousands of shops out there doing the same thing!! so unless the car has a build sheet or pop or i buy it from the original owner with all info i would assume any car to be a plain janer
and would never pay for a premium type car (z/28,ss,rs,yenko) without any such docs but just by what the guy trying to sell it to me says it is!!! JMHO
the last 3 engines i had built at 3 different shops all asked for a small fee if i would like the block restamped to match the car!!?? and i am sure there are thousands of shops out there doing the same thing!! so unless the car has a build sheet or pop or i buy it from the original owner with all info i would assume any car to be a plain janer
and would never pay for a premium type car (z/28,ss,rs,yenko) without any such docs but just by what the guy trying to sell it to me says it is!!! JMHO
#9
If you can figure a way to soak the area on the axle where the number is stamped in a pool vinegar for about 4 or 5 days, the rust scales will come right off. I keep a vat of vinegar (about 10 gallons) in my shop. I soak all the small parts in it. All rust and paint comes right off. Beats sand blasting.
#10