Hey guys,


I tried to find this in the search but didn't see anything. I'm sure it's probably there.


I was wondering .... has anyone just "reversed" the spring/shock plates to run the shocks on the "inside" of the leaf springs? What is the problems with something this simple?


If not, I guess the relocation bar trick is the next thing on my list. Just trying to save a few bucks here & there so I can spend over there & there.


Just trying to get my new CPP Big Brake kit ready to install and was just wondering as I have to buy some new "lowered" rear springs, but just thought if the shocks could go "inside" the leaf springs, that would be a huge problem solver.


Thanks in advance for your pending advise.

 

I climbed under my car yesterday to give it a good hard look and see that this simple swap won't work. Guess it's time to buy a relocation kit to get serious.

Thanks guys.

 

Moved the QA1 shocks inboard on my 68. The lower mount was not a problem and was able to use the Competition Engineering slide a link mounts. The upper mount was relocated to a fabricated chrome moly brace that was welded between the frame rails. This does provide extra room in the wheel wells. Will try to upload a couple of pics which show the change.

 

That's probably what I'll end up doing. Was trying to do it cheap instead of right. I'll order the relocation set up this weekend.

Thanks for the pics

 

Not sure where you are going with the rear suspension, but if you keep the leaf springs, I would recommend you consider the Hotchkis rear anti sway bar and subframe connectors.... along with the CE Slide-a-link traction system my 68 is very stable under hard launches.

 

68hou
Thanks, I'll look that stuff up.
At first I was just going to do a few things to the car, then I picked up a new set of the CPP Big Brakes for the car so now I'm going all (most) of the way. I picked up a nice 8.5" posi rear end and I'll get some 2" or 3" lower leaf springs and that should give me my stance and handling. NOW I've got to do the rear shock relocation thing as I want those wide *** 9.5" rims with 275s to fill the wheel wells.

Next week I'm just going to try and swap out a top end kit on the motor. I've got fresh camel hump heads, Performer RPM manifold, Jackson gear drive kit, headers, trying to figure out if I want to mess with a cam swap at the moment as I've got to finish up the 468 for next years install in the car. just need a carb and good HEI distrib and i'm good to go.

 

Sounds like you will have a very nice build when you are done. If you don't do anything else, I highly recommend the sub-frame connectors. This will make a noticeable difference in everyday driving and cornering. The front and rear clips are really not well linked by the uni-body on the 1st gen Camaros and flex is significant. You will feel the difference immediately. I'm running Hoosier DOT Drag radials 275-60/R15's on Weld 9.5 x 15 rims with no problems in the rear wheel wells. These are basically 28x10 with a section width of 11.5. My car is not mini tubbed.

 

68hou
Thanks, yeah I had a nice set on my 73 LT RS and could feel the difference back then. I guess I should start looking at that stuff too.
Lately I've been hit with the "I'm going to need a trunk floor" eventually syndrome. Wondering if I should do it NOW since I've got to weld up the shock relocation kit and it would be dumb to NOT do it now. The PO laid down that fiberglass sheeting and then covered it in some tar crap so I don't even know how bad the floor really is. ?? But I'm sure it will need one. Guess it's time to take it to the shop and get a quote.
I really DON'T want to mini tub this car, but I'm afraid that the shop will say "now is the time to do it" but it's a little out of my budget this time around.

Again, thanks for the info guys. I'm pretty close to getting the last few items to do the brakes & suspension all around. First I want to swap out the top end of the motor with all of the goodies I've got laying around. I feel the need for speed here very soooooon.

 

I have spent a lot of money based on "now is the time to do it". LOL

 

Lol. When I built my 73 LT RS back in the mid 80s? I spent way too much. Like $15k back then. 2nd Gens weren't worth squat at the time and I was only able to squeeze $7500 out of my buyer. But it was 1 bad *** ride.

Guess I'll be saving up a few more bucks to get a few more things before I take down the car.
*Next week I'll break out the tools and pull the top end off and see what I've got to work with. Need to have it back on the road WITHIN 2 weeks. 3 weeks tops or the wife is gonna stomp on my head. LOL.