Low power, sputtering
#1
Low power, sputtering
I'm just looking at places to look for the issues. Here's what I've changed so far:
1. Optispark
2. Cleaned Engine coil
3. Replaced wire from coil to Optispoark
4. Replaced 5 plugs and wires. The last 3 on the passenger side are impossible.
5. Coolant temperature sensor
I'll be taking the car to a shop to replace the last 3 spark plugs. I just can't get my arm in there.
I am also replacing the upstream O2 sensor at the shop when they do the other 3 spark plugs.
I can drive the car but you can tell there's a misfire happening somewhere. I replaced the optispark because I dripped coolant on it when I replaced the water pump last year. I bought the car in 2012 and never drove it in the winter. Just wondering if changing all that will fix my issues?
1. Optispark
2. Cleaned Engine coil
3. Replaced wire from coil to Optispoark
4. Replaced 5 plugs and wires. The last 3 on the passenger side are impossible.
5. Coolant temperature sensor
I'll be taking the car to a shop to replace the last 3 spark plugs. I just can't get my arm in there.
I am also replacing the upstream O2 sensor at the shop when they do the other 3 spark plugs.
I can drive the car but you can tell there's a misfire happening somewhere. I replaced the optispark because I dripped coolant on it when I replaced the water pump last year. I bought the car in 2012 and never drove it in the winter. Just wondering if changing all that will fix my issues?
#2
it very well could be one of those plugs couseing it or all ,so until you change them sounds like you did a good tune up ? wires too can look good an be bad on the inside,they make Opti S with no vents ,should not allow any water in ,a lot of guys change them at the same time though,guys talk about codes so while at the shop they can check for any codes related to the misfire bye hooking it up to a computer ,some guys buy them for there year car an any time something comes up they can check the codes them self ,an tune the car the way they want to ,a basic code reader is cheap $20.00,an they have more expensive ones to cost like $200.00 an do a lot more for tuning hypertech is a good one, someone else will chime in
Last edited by 95 camaro 406; 04-25-2016 at 02:20 PM.
#3
usually its the back plug on the passenger side that never gets changed. both my camaros had plugs older than dirt there when i got them. get the remaining plugs and plug wires in and see what that does before you get farther into it. lol yah the passenger side is a pita. a couple on mine i have to take the starter out. headers seem to make it tougher in mine to get em on the passenger side.
Last edited by craby; 04-25-2016 at 07:22 PM.
#4
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,351
Any codes? I would think you would have at least a random misfire code and/or a rich code if it was a plug issue. There is still a long list of things it could be.
Fuel pressure or volume
Timing Chain
clogged Cat
EGR stuck open
Computer:
Mass air flow sensor
Air temp
Coolant temp
Fuel injectors
PCM itself (normally a quad driver)
I am sure I am forgetting something.
This is the type of job that goes to the class A tech, meaning one of the best\highest paid wrenches in the shop. It will be tuff to track it down without the right tools. All you get here is "It kind of sounds like what happened to mine and it was this". You can throw parts at it or find a good mechanic that does not need to guess. In many cases people through parts at the car end up spending more money. I have had customer customs spend a lot of money trying to fix something and once it was hooked up to a good analyses we tracked down a bad wire in less then an hour.
You should get all you normal maintenance stuff up to date, plugs, wires, filters before taking it in. You don't want to pay $150 for them to tell you that the plugs need changed. There are shops out there that are very good a driveabllity (mechainc's term for not running right) issues but there are lot that do not have the tools or the talent and end up guessing. When I was at the dealership about 20% of the non-warranty work I did was sent in from other shops.
Fuel pressure or volume
Timing Chain
clogged Cat
EGR stuck open
Computer:
Mass air flow sensor
Air temp
Coolant temp
Fuel injectors
PCM itself (normally a quad driver)
I am sure I am forgetting something.
This is the type of job that goes to the class A tech, meaning one of the best\highest paid wrenches in the shop. It will be tuff to track it down without the right tools. All you get here is "It kind of sounds like what happened to mine and it was this". You can throw parts at it or find a good mechanic that does not need to guess. In many cases people through parts at the car end up spending more money. I have had customer customs spend a lot of money trying to fix something and once it was hooked up to a good analyses we tracked down a bad wire in less then an hour.
You should get all you normal maintenance stuff up to date, plugs, wires, filters before taking it in. You don't want to pay $150 for them to tell you that the plugs need changed. There are shops out there that are very good a driveabllity (mechainc's term for not running right) issues but there are lot that do not have the tools or the talent and end up guessing. When I was at the dealership about 20% of the non-warranty work I did was sent in from other shops.
Last edited by Gorn; 04-26-2016 at 09:52 AM.
#5
Thanks for the replies. I think it could be the plugs too. I will get them to replace them on the passenger side and the wires too. I also have a new O2 sensor to go in the manifold at the same time. Of course the O2 sensor is near that last plug on the passenger side ugh!
@Gorn I have no codes. I only got the SES light when I forgot to plug back in the IAT sensor, after that it went off again. I replaced the coolant temp sensor, the cat isn't plugged, and the MAF is working as it should. Fuel pressure seems fine. No issues at WOT.
@Gorn I have no codes. I only got the SES light when I forgot to plug back in the IAT sensor, after that it went off again. I replaced the coolant temp sensor, the cat isn't plugged, and the MAF is working as it should. Fuel pressure seems fine. No issues at WOT.
Last edited by mrfreez; 04-26-2016 at 10:56 AM.
#7
I got the AC Delco double platinum. That's what everyone else suggested. I finally got the car on the road, she's performing a little better after I changed the optispark, and coolant temp sensor. She still doesn't seems to have as much power after she's at operating temp. Hopefully the new plugs, wires and O2 sensor will fix that. Appointment next Thursday.
#9
Thanks for the replies. I think it could be the plugs too. I will get them to replace them on the passenger side and the wires too. I also have a new O2 sensor to go in the manifold at the same time. Of course the O2 sensor is near that last plug on the passenger side ugh!
@Gorn I have no codes. I only got the SES light when I forgot to plug back in the IAT sensor, after that it went off again. I replaced the coolant temp sensor, the cat isn't plugged, and the MAF is working as it should. Fuel pressure seems fine. No issues at WOT.
@Gorn I have no codes. I only got the SES light when I forgot to plug back in the IAT sensor, after that it went off again. I replaced the coolant temp sensor, the cat isn't plugged, and the MAF is working as it should. Fuel pressure seems fine. No issues at WOT.