Duel stage is when you are running two different "Stages" of nitrous. Its manly for guys running a lot of juice when traction becomes a issue. They will spray one stage off the line or at the 60 mark, and then open up the second stage latter on. You will not need it on a 3.4 or even a stock bottom LT or LS.

 

Do not waste your money going into the bottom end, porting, or polishing any thing on the 3.4. Its a waste of time and money. No matter what you do to it she will not breath up top. If you had a 3.8 it would be a little different but it takes a lot of work to get a 3.8 to even complete with a stock LT1. (A LOT) Not sure what you are talking about when you say you would tare up a 6 speed. The T56 is a bad transmission and when upgraded and be a real beast. You can rebuild your own for about 500 bucks and have a transmission that can take 500 horses to the wheels all day long. The T5 is much weaker.

 

see, what gets on my nerves sometimes is when people make comments like that. I know at least 3 cars around me locally that are spraying 150+ in their 100k+ mile ls1 bottom ends. What a lot of people don't realize is that if your tuneup is right, you can spray a TON of nitrous on a stock motor. People have been doing it for years. Its the guys that get their first nitrous kit, put the big jets in and spray the ***** out of it first pass that blow their **** up and give nitrous a bad name. The important thing to do with ANY nitrous car is to bump up your shot slowly. Start with a 50, make a pass, shut the car off AT WOT, coast it off the track, pull the plugs, read your logs, make your adjustments and do it again. Then when you get your 50 shot tuneup set, put a 75 shot jet in, pull some timing and do the same thing. This stuff doesn't happen overnite as I'm sure you know, it takes time and there is a process. When I go to a track, I have 5-6 sets of spark plugs with me, especially if I'm bumping up the shot. SloLS1 on this board is a friend of mine, we spray a 150 shot through his stock 4L60/LS1 with 138k miles on it.

I can agree about not wasting too much money on a 3.4 car, the 3.8 is WORLDS better if you can swing that, otherwise, as I said before, spray a 50-100 shot on what you have, make it work and work WELL and while you're doing that, make your plan for the next step.

as for the t56 (I'm not picking on you by the way, even though it may seem like it) 450whp seems to be their limit with out VERY expensive modifications. I had a VERY built t56 behind my 408 and swapped it because I was afraid of it breaking and I was only making 501whp

 

^^^
Looking at your sig it also looks like you are hooking pretty hard and i am guessing your 60 times are in the 1.5 range. Running a 275 dr is going to be a lot more forgiving on your transmission then say a 10.5 slick would be and there are tons of guys running built T56's way past that. I ran right around 460 at the wheels on motor with a T56 set up and she drove fine. That was on a 315 MT DR. In fact it held up better then my built 4L60 (not saying much but still). I will agree that any thing over low 400s and extended abuse or big sticky tires will wear them down quick. You can still build one on a budget to take a good beating and keep on ticking. Its been a while but TICK offers there street/strip build for about 1100 bucks if you take your transmission to them. Great guys out there and they know GM transmissions.

But all that is kind of besides the point. We are not comparing a T56 to a 4L80 or to a TH400 here. We are talking about a T-5 to a T-56 and in that aspect they are in two different classes.

And i dont know why you would say.
"see, what gets on my nerves sometimes is when people make comments like that"
I was suggesting that even a single shot would be plenty for any stock LS or 3.4 motor.

 

1.4s, but whose counting


I've found it to be the other way around when dealing with tires. A slick, due to its soft sidewall (wrinkle walls) will absorb a LOT of the shock on the driveline where as a radial tire won't, it will either spin or hook. I will generally always recommend a bias ply tire to a stick car because it will work infinitely better than a radial tire due to the design of the tire. As I said before, because of the soft sidewall a slick will send less shock through the driveline helping a t5/t56 last longer and take more abuse than it normally would.

I had TDP build my trans, their 800+ hp version for a large sum of money 2k+ and was still concerned even launching the car on motor (it saw numerous 1.6x 60ft passes) I've just never known a t56 to last, even a built one for an extended period of time. I can agree with you when you say that the t5 is much worse than the t56, that trans was not great for even stock power levels, but I don't like beating around the bush, the t56 isn't worlds better, even when built.

Maybe I read what you were saying the wrong way, but I assumed you were eluding to an LSx motor not being able to take a large shot of nitrous on a stock bottom end. Could be my mistake, but it angers me when people say that because its not true. I'm on a couple other camaro forums and its almost like people are afraid of nitrous and try to steer people away when they have no experience with it (not saying you specifically, speaking generally)

 

Does anyone have any Dyno sheet or real ET from someone using No2 Dry in a 3.4? If these things do well with NO2 I would like to know. I reseach it in the past and the 3.4 bottom end was only good till about 280 HP dependable. After that it is the luck of the draw. But that info comes from the FWD world where they have good heads to start with. I think Z28 pete played in that sand box for awhile.

I have always had it in the back of my mind that a 3rd gen 2.8\5 speed, converted 3.4 would be a fun and cheap project. Heck you can find decent V6 3rd gens with engine damage for twice scrap value

 

No. I agree with you 100%. I have run nitrous on 3 motors and never had one fail under the bottle. Nitrous is a great budget power adder for strait line performance. I was suggesting that there would be no need for duel stages on a 3.4 or a stock bottom LS motor. I would start very small on the shots not going over a 50 until you can read the plugs and see how she responds. Get a pressure gauge and a wide band if you can afford them as well. But the biggest thing is going to be reading your plugs.

I think the upwards limit is about 250 horses but that's kind of starting to push it a little bit. I know there are guys that have made more then that but i dont see it living very long.

 

Could you explain what reading your plugs is? I assume you're talking about spark plugs but I've only just started researching nitrous stuff so I don't know what everything is yet.

 

except nitrous kicks in early and typically gives more torque than it does HP. i think ud be surprised how similar the curves are between a v6 w/ spray and a v8

 

Except that curve drops like a stone if you go up against somebody on a stretch of highway!