mabey even 600 or 500 for your car engine if its like the stock engine they put in there i would see what it had in the day ,Is the engine the original ,they did have high perfomance engines in most of the cars ,an the 302 had the 780,are you going with a HEI ignition is the better choise of oldshcool engines today

 

A 350 with 10:1 and 2.02 valves and a mild cam should handle a 650 no problem.

 

I have a 780 single pump and a 750 double pump
so am guessing the 780


thanks for the input

 

I used to run a 750 double pumper on my solid lifter cammed 427.
Honestly I wouldn't run either one on a mild small block but if you have to the 780 is probably a better choice with an auto trans, especially if you don't have a high stall converter.
Is it a vacuum secondary carb?
I ran a 650 spread bore double pumper on a mild 396 with a 4 speed and it worked just fine, too big a carb is the most common mistake guys make.
They don't get the performance they expect and get lousy gas mileage too.

 

i thought he said it was built to stock wich would be like 250hp to 275,mine it bit more then stock ,an could probley handle a 750 with a riser plate ,? but i cant do that with hood clearance

 

He said it's got " 2.02 heads , 10.1 compression,280h comp cam"
That's a bit more than stock unless it's an LT-1 which I doubt.
Bigger valves and higher compression than a stock 250-275hp 350 and a bigger cam as well. With a set of headers and something like an HEI ignition it's a pretty good step up and will support a bit more carb than the Q-jet that comes on a 275hp engine. That said a 650cfm single pump vacuum secondary carb would be plenty enough given the auto trans IMO.

 

Well you have more displacement at 406" but a lot depends on compression ratio and what you have for a cam and what heads. A 750cfm is a pretty good sized carb, especially if it's a manual secondary double pumper which is what I had on my 427. I could have run a bit bigger carb on the big block but the 750 worked pretty well for a street driven car with 3:90 gears and a 4 speed.
I had the .575 lift bowtie solid lifter cam with the bowtie square port iron heads and 11:1 compression. Now had I gone to ported heads and a bigger cam etc. and lower butt gears for drag racing I would have gone with more carb. but keep in mind we're talking a 427 Rat not a small block.

 

it a Double ,i was told with the cal emissons plate taken out can give one more hp that all edelbrock carbs have ,better throttle responce hp air ,i think he will do better with an updated carb an hei as well,yes mine is around 11.1 or more an likes octane booster ,an a 600 lift,built more for the torq ,though the hp could brought up bye playing with the carb,but i like it the way it is ,this year i am doing front shocks suspenion parts front an back got some new panhard bar trailing arms for the rear .as well as fame conectors an exhuast is on my to do list

 

I'm doing much the same, I already got lucky on some nice clean used bits.
I have the BMR bolt on sub-frame connectors ,the BMR tube torque arm and relocation member,the adjustable poly bushing tube panhard rod and a set of UMI poly roto-joint lower control arms for the back.
I picked up a clean used strut tower brace for the front that I have already installed and will be getting the new Strano master cylinder brace to go with it. Next on the suspension list is a set of Koni Sport shocks on all 4 corners and a set of Strano front and rear sway bars.
The engine is getting a set of LS6 heads, nice clean 40K off an '04 Z06 Vette and we'll be adding double beehive Comp valve springs,also have purchased a .617 lift cam and a new set of LS7 lifters.
Of course we'll do a timing set and oil pump upgrade with the install.
Next parts I'm buying here shortly (have cash in hand) are pricey but I want the best, American Racing long tube stainless steel lifetime warranty headers and a no cat y-pipe. I already have a GMMG stainless chambered exhaust system on the car ($1000 set!) so at least I don't have to buy that. If all goes well at work the next couple of months I hope to get it down to Wongs Performance in April or May to have the engine work done and get it tuned on the dyno.
Tom at Wong's suggested a clutch upgrade so I've already bought a new LS7 clutch kit with a RAM lightweight aluminum flywheel and ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolt kit.


Welcome to Wong's Performance Engineering

 

sounds good,i know my 95 can use a set on front i did the rear shocks,but i imagine the car is going to drive so much better now i notice when i hit the wrong bump it sways from side to side an anything is better then the 22 year old ones in there now,yes doing the strut covers too,an upper ball joints tierod ends an mabey lower ball joints as well, an the sway bar bushings front an rear ,i figure if i am doing the front mights well do the back too,bumps stops too.but first thing will be the 6.75 harmonic balancer from the 8 inch, an the front shocks ,will go from there ,few hours hear an there