Good Evening my fellow Camaro owners. I've recently acquired a nicely modded 1994 1LE Camaro that is simply breath taking. Very tight, fast and over all a BLAST to drive. See my post in the General discussion forum for more info. Anyways...I think this car could use some performance brakes in its future. Can someone provide me links for some decent venders? Moderators I apologize in advance if this is the wrong place for these questions. Thanks in advance for any and all help!

 

Maybe you should go into a little more detail about what you want. Are you talking about a Brembo $3,000 track ready setup? Or are you taking just better pads?

There are a lot of choices depending on your budget and what you want out of the car. Heck just going to a you-pull-it lot and getting the parts form a 98-02 Camaro is a nice upgrade.

I am not trying to hi-jack your thread but I have been meaning to ask if anyone has ever used POWER STOP?
More Information for POWER STOP KC1548

 

Gorn, thanks for the reply. Ive done a little research since and yes, I am interested to know more about power stop as they are all over summit racings' site. I've also seen willow wood set ups that I like. Upon further inspection, I believe the front brakes have been upgraded someone as the caliper seems larger and it is red. So maybe its only rear brakes I need...potentially


A full out track set up might be a little over kill, but this car is quite fast and maybe it wouldn't hurt to see that option as well. Ive looked into willowood setups, power stop and a few others that are on summits site and other similar sites.


What is involved with upgrading to a 98-02 setup? Swap a calipers, rotors and pads?

 

What i dont like 'bout the larger rotors of the 98+ swap is i couldnt run 15" wheels (for slicks). Last time i upgraded the brakes i just bought some slotted and drilled rotors from AC delco w/Performance brake pads. They worked great with the stock size rotors until i hit the first rain. Lost some stopping performance and it never returned. I dont know why that is. But the new rotors and pads made it like a new/different car. But now its back to the norm.

I guess what im saying is the brakes work impressively when the new parts where installed and i would be happy with that if could return them to that condition.

Just a suggestion but a pic of your 1LE would be more interesting than a pic of your mustang.

 

Brake performance should not fade with age, what you described is call glazing. Your brake pads and rotors have heated up and polished each other. The fix is pretty simple, you just need to sand the rotors with none directional cut (not around the rotor) and lightly sand the pads with some 120 grid paper.

Not being able to use 15” rims is normally not a problem for someone with a LE1. Le1 is a road course car not a drag car.
The front brakes from any 98+ are not only larger they have 2 pistons that allow for larger pads and the caliper itself is made from aluminum and will bleed off heat much faster than its cast iron brother. Also the rotors are a larger diameter. Even thou it is only an inch it makes a pretty big different.

 

Well ive heard of "glazing" but thought it would not happen from normal driving. I can always just give it/them a scrub with some 320 grit and see what happens - 120 grit seems to large. I have the armored flex lines installed front and rear but really didnt notice an improvement like with the new Hawk pads and AC d rotors where installed.

 

I have never hear, read or seen anything about brakes getting weaker after being used. In fact you should expect then to not be as good during break in. You should really take it easy during the first few hundred miles of new brakes. This is when they glaze the easiest.

Fastest way to de-glaze is a DA sander. The process is quick but you need to do a new break in after that. Break in is just driving like an old women for a few hundred miles or just take out on a highway and lightly tap the brake every 3-4 minutes. The time gives the brakes plenty of time to cool.

 

I have not done the swap so I am not 100% sure. I do know that it needs the all the brake parts off the front and it requires the spindles off a 98-02 car. The larger rotors will hit the 93-97 spindle. The brake line is different, I remember reading some where there was someone selling a braided hose for the swap. You can pull the line from is holder and it will work.

I believe on the rears you just need all the brake parts from the axel bracket to the park brake cable.

I started the front upgrade several years ago but had to stop when I found out the used brakes I bought where not repairable. I did not know about the spindles and had to go back and get them.

This shows the rotor difference


2000 Caliper with a frozen bolt in the bracket. (Note the dual pistons the cooling fins to increase the area to help bleed off heat)


This should be the setup on your 94, Note the single piston. If you have something different you will need to figure it out. You will need brakes someday. (Note the single piston and the cast iron design just like a normal passenger car. The cast iron can absorb a lot of heat but once it over heats it takes a lot longer to cool down.

 

nice gorn thats all i want for mine slotted roters ,an on the calipers some paint helps stop rusting ,they have kits for like 250.00 for the pads roters an calipers ,but i have priced them for less seperate i had mine painted 8 years ago still good ,could use a new coat with some clear vht is the best an cost les the most painted calipers,mine were rusted ,but that never has to happen again ,plan to do the same with 3800,can tell i have not drove the 95 406 in a few months now ,but one can paint evrything but the surface of the roter,vht has alot more usees too

 

wow thanks again gorn! As the weather grows colder and winter sets in...the plan to get the car up on jack stands and slowly work on "de-rusting" as much of the subframe etc I can. I will also investigate my brakes further.


I wonder if I needed brake fluid the whole time as I just discovered a leak after the car was sitting for a few days and the tank was bone dry. As I stated in an earlier thread...good thing my drive to work ends at a chevy dealer