Do what craby said. It doesn't matter if you drain and refill it x amount times. If you don't bleed the air from the system you'll run into the same problem. Give that a shot first. When you fill the system, you'll know air is the system because you can watch the coolant level drop slowly. If you bleed the valves with the engine off, you'll hear a hissing. If you bleed with the engine running, you'll hear hissing, followed by spurting/bubbling and then solid coolant. You'll have to run the engine multiple times. Purging the system of air requires several heat cycles.

 

Just found my problem guys... SPLIT RADIATOR... the only reason why the coolant level seems good is because of the pressure built up inside of it, its basically been reading steam instead of water, I was really hoping I didnt have to take the front clip off to do this

 

You don't have to take off the front clip for this. Drain rad, disconnect hoses & sensor, disconnect fans, unbolt top support, pull the fans out, pull a/c condensor up towards you so it can slide off the tabs on rad, once condensor is off rad tabs push condensor forward a bit to give the rad room to slide out and pull rad up and out.

 

Sweet... thanks for the easy way

 

No prob.

 

That'll do it every time . Let us know how it goes when you get it replaced.

 

I sure will...

 

Ok so upon taking the radiator out I decided to flush from the heater core line, block inlet and block outlet... and theres was barely any water coming out, I pressured the system and voila water running beautifully through the pipes, but the heater core was different... SO I had to pull out the heater core and unclogged it. So I threw in the new radiator anyway just in case and now temp sits right above 180 which is damn good to me, I am running no thermostat in it until winter.

 

Alright dude, you are the man! Good job, it must feel great to finally have that worked out.

 

Yeah it does... shops saying its a split radiator... tsk tsk