LT1/LT4 Tech 1993-1997

Overheating

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Old 02-18-2013, 08:33 AM
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Default Overheating

I bought a Z so don't know history of car.The cooling fans are not kicking on ,I have not let it run much over 3/4 on the temp,coolant level is good,I bleed the air from the screw the upper hose going to intake.I switched out relaying and nothing changed,I was thinking of changing the temp sensor on the water pump or is something else I should be looking at
 
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:48 AM
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What year is your car? There are two bleeder screws, one near the thermostat housing and one at the T for the heater hoses.

The middle of the gauge is near the 215 F area. Fans don't kick on till 226 for low speed and high at 235, but they should kick on before they ever touch the red. There are some tricks you can do to test to see if the fans are working as they should.

Also, there are two temp senders in our car. One on the pump for the PCM and then one on the drivers side head for the actually gauge. Also note that our factory gauges are not quite that accurate.
 
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:49 PM
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It's a 95 and I am thinking I bleed the one in the T, is the T about 6 inches to the left of thermostat housing,if it is that is the only one I bleed.
 
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:56 PM
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early 4th gens have a bleeder screw under the thottle body as well.
 
Attached Thumbnails Overheating-bleeders.jpg  
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:09 PM
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:11 PM
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Thanks the picture helped ,it was the upper one I bleed.I am going over to the garage tomorrow to work on it and I'll bleed the other one.
 
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:26 PM
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ok i see you didnt look at the link sooo

make sure the radiator is full while bleeding it. park the car as steep a hill you have in your area, park with the front of the car on the up side. let cool, fill radiator, with the radiator cap off open the bleed screws one at a time and close them when coolant comes out. refill radiator as needed. the bleed screw on the hose will not bleed until the car is started. soo once you have bled the lower screws, mine has one under the tb, one on the thermostat cover and one on the hose that is next to the alternator, this is the one that will not bleed without the motor running. anyways once you have fluid coming out of the other or others, close them and with the cap still off start the motor and bleed the hose screw till fluid comes out, check coolant level in the radiator and fill if needed and put the cap on. take the car for a ride around the block and rebleed the screws without removing the radiator cap. then let it cool and do it again from the start to see if air is still there if so repeat till you get no air on the re bleed.
 
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Old 03-24-2013, 06:53 PM
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It just needed to be bleed.Thanks now I noticed a little antifreeze puddled on the thermostat housing just below where the thermostat is.It has a new thermostat with gasket around the thermostat but advance auto also sold another gasket separately.Should there also be a second gasket between where the top bolts down on the thermostat?
 
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:15 PM
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By the way I actually bought the second gasket just didn't use it because my Haynes manual didn't show using it.The second gasket did look like it would sandwich between the two pieces of aluminum that houses the thermostat and according to advance auto the guy said that some camaros use them and some don't.
 
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:35 PM
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The rubber ring seal on the stat seals the stat to the housing and intake manifold so that coolant can't flow around it.
That "second" gasket is what seals the neck to the intake, and prevents the leak that you have.
 


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