I was so excited to finally get my overheating issues solved and got to drive my 95 Z (was in pieces when I bought it), just short trips to check everything out. The battery I was using was not up to par so I went and got a new one, installed it and cranked the car a couple times, everything good. Got in it a few hours later, turned the key and nothing.


Dash lights up like it's suppose to but the car will not turn over. Another thing I noticed was that I do not hear the fuel pump running for that short time when you turn the key on.


Is a dead fuel pump the reason the motor will not turn over? If not where do I start looking and what do I need to test? I have started the car several times over the last couple days with no issues until this.


I do appreciate all the help I've gotten over the last year or so from the good folks on this forum, if not for you guys this thing would most likely have been sent down the hill with a flaming rag hanging from the go juice hole

 

clean the bean on the key. that bump with metal strip, clean the metal. try spraying some contact/electronic cleaner in the key hole. not to much. dont want it dripping all over. other than that it could be vats, is the security light on or blinking? fuel pump will not stop engine from turning over, will stop it from starting/runing

 

No security light. the car had an after market security system professionally installed which meant they installed a resistor in the vats system and the dipstick po added another one just behind the already installed one which was the cause of it not turning over when I bought the car. Wasn't until after the security system was removed that I found the second resistor. After removing it the security light went off and I have not had a problem with the car not turning over since until today.


Just curious, would the key or ignition switch being dirty not allow the fuel pump to not run when the key is turned to the on position? The reason I ask is that before now every time the key was turned on the fuel pump would come on and in my opinion sounded pretty healthy. I can't help but think that the problem of it not turning over and the pump not coming on are related, maybe I'm wrong just my thoughts.


Would using a Qtip to clean the key hole be sufficient or do I need to spray it down?


On second thought with a resistor wired in would the key (chip)/ ignition switch even matter?

 

resistor takes the place of the key. test resistor and make sure it is still working correctly.

 

Key resistance measured 11.73 and resistor measured 11.81


I'm gonna have to put another resistor in because I broke one end off getting to it to test it.


I'm thinking that the resistor tested ok so any ideas on where I should look next? I have checked all fuses in the car and under the hood and didn't find any bad ones

 

make sure battery is charged. lol. test for power to and from the ignition switch. its at the base of the column.

 

Yea ive gone through 2 ign switchs. For some reason they die and the fix is replacement with a new key also. Had both mine fixed at the dealer because i needed the car right away - second time had me stuck out of town.

But like craby said check the batt is ok and not drained from some short somewhere. I like these batt testers as i can check the batt voltage, the batt capacity and the alt charge all in less than a minute: 100 Amp 6/12V Battery Load Tester

 

Well as I mentioned I have to put a new resistor in because I busted the one that was in there which has proved to be a feat of it's own. Thought I could just take the old one to radio shack and get a replacement but being a nubie to this resistor thing and the people at the shack not being able to tell for sure what resistor I had so I'm stuck until I can figure it out. If all else fails I will try and figure out how to get a pic up on here.


craby, thanks for the pic on the ignition switch. I will check that as soon as I get a resistor back in place.

 

How to bypass the VATS system in a late model GM vehicle

 

Ok now I'm confused; according to the link Camaro69 provided I should have found 3 resistors defeating the vats system instead of the 1 I found.


Measurements for key pellet and resistor are above, since that resistor was professionally installed could it have been custom made? and do I need to get 3 resistors to replace that 1? The resistor I removed had brown + black + black + gold bands and measured 11.81 on the 20k setting on a brand new bosch DMM.


I'm just trying to make sure I go back with the correct setup as I believe the resistor was good and was not the cause of my no cranking problem. Only replacing it because I broke one leg off trying to get to it to test it. Please correct me if I am wrong.


I can follow directions pretty well but sometimes comprehending this electrical stuff takes a little while to sink in so let me say again Thank all you guys for putting up with me and all the help ya'll have provided