ive heard so many different things so i thought i would come to you guys with the ls1 and maybe someone here could tell me what i should use when i get my oil changed for my 01 ls1

 

Racing? Or every day driving? Racing would be Royal Purple Synthetic. Every day I'd use any other synthetic.

 

both dd and racing like once or twice a month

 

Mobile 1 all the way man, if its an everyday racer than i would use no other than AMS oil=10.50 a quart

 

Amsoil doesn't stand behind their products. It says you can go 7500 miles but if you do have an issue such as a clogged oil filter that does starve your motor, they won't honor their garuntee. If you take it to the dealership, they won't help you either becaue you had gone over the manufacturer's recomended service interval. Trust me, personal experience through work. Blown 2 dirt bike motors with Amsoil (2 strokes) 1 Kawasaki 250cc and a Honda 250cc. Put it in a clear tube and have a disc with holes in it and then stroke the piston in the cylinder. There will be lots of foam. So I do not recomend Amsoil.


Where the hell are you getting your Amsoil. Cost is $4.00/qt and at retail it's only $7.50!!!

 

Well I've used Amsoil 0w30 in many different vehicles, for a long while

a 1991 chevy 454 tbi 2500 burban, i started using 0w30 at about 30k..I changed the 2 quart filter every 10k and the oil every 20K...for 265,000 miles. I had a bad exhaust valve (damm unleaded gas) so we tore it down. I put the crank in the crank grinder, centered it up and the journals were slightly oblong the arnold gauge showed around .0005 wear with sweep wear at about .002.....

out of habit, I replaced all the rod bolts an resized the rods, the worst cylinder in the block had .003 wear at the top of the cylinder under the lip...

I cleaned up and re used the roller cam and again out of habit, i replaced the roller lifters...

I installed hardend guides and new stainless valve with hardened exhaust seats... a new oil pump, I ground the crank to .010 under, though i probably could have polished it an run .001 under and it would have been fine, but it cost me nothing to grind it... put in a set of hastings moly rings. and had it balanced with a ..(new flex plate and balancer)

put the torque plates on the block and checked the main line bore it was near dead on.. so did a bore job to .020,

new timing set and put it back together...

I traded it in at 365,000K for a cummins...

We got the wifes roadmaster at 68K, I've run 0w30 in it for 174,000 with a filter change at 5k (the 2 quart wont fit it) and the oil change at 15K...she was running daily 100 miles to and from work...

I ran an international 466E for a porta potty truck...we used Amsoil 15W40 diesel and marine oil in it... filter 7500, oil at 15k
it has nearly 375,000 on it now...similaly we had an f550, same oil and interval 400K

i ran a LS6 454 850 holly with a NV4500 5 speed in an 86 c-20 crew cab... Hyd roller cam, rev limiter at 6,000...ran the holy hell out of it... filter t 5K and oil at 10k. I traded the truck less the engine and tranny at 75K...

I took the motor down to prep it for the camaro, fresh rings, new bearings and a polish job..motor looked great..it now resides in my camaro with 12 quarts of 0w30

so for me, Amsoil has worked well

I run it in everything from my John Deere, my 03 5.9 cummins, my Lt1 74 Monte..

I've never had an issue with them so I can't speek for the customer service.. just that everything I've ever run it in has done very well on it

With the exception of air cooled VWs... VW legend Gene Berg does not recommend using synthetic oil of any type in a air cooled VW he believed that dino oil tranfered heat better at least thats what he said on his web site.

Just my thought..

what ever you run, run a high quality filter, watch your engine temp and pressures, give the engine a little time to get the oil moving and warmed up after you start it and if you run a turbo, let the turbo cool down a bit at Idle before you shut it off...

Greg

 

How many people with turbos don't know that last fact?!?!?! Suprisingly more than you think!!!

I personally haven't had a problem with Amsoil either, but working at an oil change joint, you see a lot of wierd things. Ever car is unique. We've seen 2 sized up motors with Amsoil. In one case Amsoild siad it wasn't their fault a motor with 12,000 miles on it seizes up using their oil and the dealership said wouldn't honor the warrenty because of the extended drain interval. The other motor had 198,000 miles so I think that motor was time to go. Amsoil in Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VIII is no good. At 4,000 miles the oil was sludge and the filter clogged so bad the low pressure oil switch cut the motor out. Only Amsoil I would use is their synthetic desiel oil. I can't complain about that.

 

According to Southwest Research Institute who does thousands of oil tests for the manufacturers, Mobil 1 is the best out there bar none. It holds true viscosity longer without breakdown and doesn't crystalize after long periods of use which others seem to do. As for conventional oils, Castrol or Valvoline.

 

i use royal purple and i have seen a little better gas mileage, not a big difference or anything

 

Royal Purple also has the highest resistance to dilution due to fuel blowing by the piston rings. Fuel dilutes oil and brakes down the molecules.