1994 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 Convertible. My car is hard to start all the time, it turns but its like its not gettin fuel. If you keep trying though it cranks right up after it turns about 5 or 6 turns. Once this started my service engine soon light came on and now it stays on. I have tried to find a auto parts store with an OBD I Reader but have had no luck. So I don't know whats going on, but once its crunk it drives fine. Does anyone know what could be wrong?

Thanks,
Shane

 

Possible that the fuel pessure is not holding with engine off. Do fuel pressure & regulator test.

 

What about autozone? checked there yet? dont really know what it could be, but im sure someone else would..

 

ah, pete beat me to it.. you always seem to know something that could be wrong.. lol im glad too, just in case something is wrong with my car..

 

I took it to a shop and they could not get the codes to read, so I guess their might be something wrong with my computer but thats not the big picture. Today I went to start my car for church and it crunk right up but then died so I tried again but I got not get it to crank this was at 10 am. I tried to crank it at around 6pm and it started right up and stayed on so I dont know whats going on. The mechanic said it might be the coil pack or disturbter but if it was one of those would it not start at all. I really need help with this one as my camaro is my only transportation. Thanks for the help.

 

sounds like it might be the distributor, mine did the same thing, i could start it up after it had been sitting a while, but i couldnt start it up after it was warm

 

Some possibilities. As Pete mentioned in his post, do the fuel and pressure regulator tests. Eliminate this first as this sounds like what you have going on.

The reason the shop may have not ben able "get the codes to read" is it may be a "soft code" meaning it didn't register in the PCM's memory and hold there during key cycles. Try to have the scanner hooked up when the light is on and leave the car running. Once you know what system or area the code is on for you can start diagnosing things related to it.

I'd get on the fuel test first though, hook the fuel pressure tester up and run the car, record your KeyOnEngineOff pressure, then your KeyOnEngineRunning pressure with the regulator hooked up and vacuum source disconnected. You should see a jump in pressure with the vacuum off. Look into that vacuum line and see if raw fuel is there, a sure sign of a reg gone bad if there is fuel there. Also, look at and check the fuel filter. Pull it. let it dry, blow threw it(blow threw a new one, compare it to the old) and see how restricted it is. I don't care if it was put on a few weeks ago, check it. It's a filter, it may have caught a crap load of junk and did it's job, stopped it from getting to the engine.

After recording those shut the car off. Watch to see if the pressure drops immediately or gradually goes down. This will show if a leak is present in the system internally. If it does drop, pressurize the system again with using KOEO. Once the pressures up find a safe area to pinch off both the pressure and return lines. Shut the vehicle down, look for drops. If it does drop with both lines pinched. Leaking injector. No drop, then take the clamp off the pressure side. Drop, then you could have a pump that is bypassing in the tank. No drop, your to the return side. If it drops after that line is free, look to a regulator leaking.

Even with no drop off over time, or a slow, gradual drop from the pressure side it is possible the pump is getting bad. There your going to want to find a shop/tech/person who knows how to put a amp probe to the fuel pump voltage circuit and see how much it is drawing and also what the waveform of the pump looks like. These tests can easily find a almost shot pump if the tech knows his amp probe. If it passes all fuel tests then your to the ignition side of things. Keep in mind, when your pinching lines, use a clamp that won't dammage the lines, and also, don't rush, when you let a clamp off watch the gauge for a period of time and look to a gradual drop off. A overnite drop, well, that can be expected.

How, if it is, is the CE light possibly associated with the hard start? Maybe a lean code, because the system is running lean, maybe a rich code if a injector is dropping fuel. Heck, you may have a sensor internally shorting it's 5 volt reference causing long crank times. Soooo many possibilites so find out what that CE light code is and let whoever know.

It's damn freaking early for me so if anyone sees a adjustment or correction to my procedures, speak up, the coffee hasn't kicked in yet I hope this helps.

 

Thanks for the info, had to read thru it about three time but I will try it.