I am installing a new cam and heads on my camaro. i am installing hydralic flat tappet cam and lifters. the cam is a 244 dur. 488 lift by howards with roller rocker arms. What is the easiest and cleanest way to set my valves? ant help would be great!

 

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...nfo/index.html
This link also describes the cam/lifter reference: http://www.centuryperformance.com/ad...h-spg-149.html

 

I've done it the way the Chevy Hi Performance article says and it required a running adjustment afterwards.

Here's the most accurate way to do it:
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...valves_SBC_BBC

 

its messy but less messy when i cut an opening my other rusty set of valve covers i have, but i just start the car. without the valve covers after ive warmed it up. adjust one valve at a time, but loosen the rocker arm nut, till u hear it go TAP TAP TAP, then tighten it down till the sound goes away and right at that sound going away, i line up the wrench to 12 o-clock then give it 1/4 turn as a preload, u can do a 1/2 but i got better results with 1/4 a turn.

ik there are many ways to do this, but i do it my way, i wouldn't do it with a solid lifter setup, but for my older 305. it helped it out alot.

 

dam that method takes forever!!!!! take atleast a 6pk for that....stick to the easy, just remove plugs and the chev hi po way is a great way to set them...

 

Don't see why you would think it takes forever. It usually takes me 30 minutes with the engine in the car, less if it's on the stand.

Personally I'd rather set the valves correctly the first time and forget about it, rather than guess and have to go back and do it again.

 

on jr. mechanic's method i am confused about the link posted. it says the notch on balancer will be at the top which means its at TDC then it talks about making a mark on the balancer at tdc. maybe i am reading it wrong. cans some explain this to me? i was told to adjust the valves by starting at #1 turn crank by hand till the intake closes and compression just starts and adjust the exhaust at this time, then turn motor by hand till the exhaust is almost closed and adjust the intake at that time! will this process work also?

 

There are a couple of wordings in that procedure that are (not purposely) designed to confuse people. Making the mark on the damper as they describe, is marking the notch just to highlight it. And it says to put the notch "up" making one think that all timing tab locations are created equal, which they aren't. #1 piston TDC is where the pointer tab shows 0. And the beginning step; remove distributor? No, don't do that.

 

i already have the intake off and dizzy out because i am installing new heads. the procedure that i stated, is this correct? iam sure there is a bunch of ways but seeing if my way will be fine!

 

I think what you're trying to describe is the "exhaust opening/intake closing" procedure that's in the first of two links I put above. Although for some reason Jr. seems to have negative results when doing it that way.
Ever since the first time (many years ago) of doing the textbook two-step procedure, and having some loose rockers afterward, I now do the "on the heel of the cam lobe" procedure. As you can tell, there's more than one way to skin a cat. Use the procedure that works for you, and what you're comfortable with.
For the record, that procedure Jr. posted (misleading wording excluded), would be saving you some steps, and I'm not ruling it out as an option.
And do check zero lash by pulling the push rod up and down, not spinning em. Oddly enough, some of the pushrods could still spin easily and throw you off, even with having a slight load on them.