oil pressure
#1
oil pressure
2011 RS 2LT, noticed one day when I accelerated, not real hard, that the oil pressure gauge went to 70 then came back to the norm 30-34. When car is first started pressure goes to 70 then back to norm. Never noticed or paid attention to this before so it maybe normal. No warning lights, no codes, car runs fine. Over the phone, service at dealer says normal. What does GM say?
#2
My oil pressure ALAWAYS registers right around 60 Last eek I had an oil change at pep boys (never again)By th time I got home (a 2 mile drive) I had no oil in my engine!!
They replaced the a sending unit or sensor now it registers on the first white line I am guessing 20?? i was told that is normal??NOWAY what is the normal reading supposed to be on my 2001 v 6
any help appreciated
They replaced the a sending unit or sensor now it registers on the first white line I am guessing 20?? i was told that is normal??NOWAY what is the normal reading supposed to be on my 2001 v 6
any help appreciated
#3
my 305 with my mechanical once the oil is warm runs 25 idle 55~65 at 2000, my v6 firebird always ran 55~60, but i always ran 10-40 or 20-50 in it. got better mpg too, dont listen to the crap they tell you about light oil. its no good, watch out for SN ratings too, has a reduced amount of zinc, any flat tappet motor will suffer with it. they probably put light weight oil in it, you probably have some miles on that motor, and it was synthetic so you burned some oil, probably enough to drop off dipstick. dont worry too much, put some 10-40 chevron oil or Valvoline oil and you will be fine.
#8
Oil pressure is due to bearing clearances. It has very little to do with what viscosity oil you're running. I run 5W-30 all day long and never had trouble and that's with a 120k original miles.
As for ZDDP, it is good for flat tappet cams, but isn't required for any hydraulic roller cams which all fourth and fifth gens come with stock (may be some third gens too). It won't hurt to add it...if you don't have catalytic converts. The zinc in ZDDP will destroy them.
Fyi, people get mixed up on oil and this is how it works. I will use 5W-30, 10W-30, and straight 30 as an example. At operating temp., all three oils have a viscosity rating of 30. Now, pretend it's winter, and the car has been sitting all night and it's 32* out. The 5W-30 will act as if it had a viscosity rating of 5 (hence the W meaning Winter, not weight). This allows the oil to easily flow throughout the engine and making starting much easier on the engine and electrical system. When the engine reaches operating temp., it becomes a viscosity of 30 oil. Same can be said for 10W-30, just at start up it's viscosity of 10. Straight 30 though, will have a viscosity of 30 no matter what, cold or warm.
As for ZDDP, it is good for flat tappet cams, but isn't required for any hydraulic roller cams which all fourth and fifth gens come with stock (may be some third gens too). It won't hurt to add it...if you don't have catalytic converts. The zinc in ZDDP will destroy them.
Fyi, people get mixed up on oil and this is how it works. I will use 5W-30, 10W-30, and straight 30 as an example. At operating temp., all three oils have a viscosity rating of 30. Now, pretend it's winter, and the car has been sitting all night and it's 32* out. The 5W-30 will act as if it had a viscosity rating of 5 (hence the W meaning Winter, not weight). This allows the oil to easily flow throughout the engine and making starting much easier on the engine and electrical system. When the engine reaches operating temp., it becomes a viscosity of 30 oil. Same can be said for 10W-30, just at start up it's viscosity of 10. Straight 30 though, will have a viscosity of 30 no matter what, cold or warm.
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