Hey guys, I drive an 81 and she's been sitting in my school parking lot for the past couple months. I've pretty much stopped driving her because gas was so high and I didn't have the money to be filling her up. I recently added a few quarts of oil and a couple jugs of anti-freeze to her and cranked her up. My car recently broke down last week and I was stupid enough not to check the liquids before taking her out to work, so my car overheated and the back pressure caused the seal of the radiator where it connects to the hose to break off, luckily it was a clean break so all I need is a good weld. Well I got her to start and run perfectly fine a couple days ago and last night, but when I went to start my car up tonight, it wouldn't kick over. I'm not sure if its the battery, alternator, or starter, but I've pretty much had the same problem in my mustang. When I put the key in the ignition, my tach lights up, and my lights work fine, but as soon as I try to start, I hear a click and everything is off. I'm hoping its just the battery because I'm pretty tight on money and an alternator would put a hole in my pocket. So I just have a few questions for you guys:

What do you think the problem is on my car starting?

How much would a weld cost me?

What's a good sized battery for an 81?

http://www.rondavisradiators.com/67-69-Camaro-Radiator.jpg

I looked for a radiator to explain where the break is. If you look up to the top left corner, that round piece broke from the radiator.

Thank you guys

Ok, if you go to a lordco, or and autozone and tell them you need a battery for you 81 maro, They will give you the perfect match. And for your car not starting, both of my third gens would not turn over and make a constant clicking sound when i tryed to start it, i charged the battery and the car fired up fine, so my first guess would be that something drained your batterie (could be your alt.) and you now have a dead batterie, so charge it up and it should turn over and start, if that dosent work, your starter bolts are probobly loose, check the two bolts on your starter, and make sure there nice and tight, aswell as your battery bolts.

Or you could have a faulty starter, depending on how many kms/miles on the starter.

Around 100$ for a radiator weld.

thanks a lot man

Did she start?

ORIGINAL: c4maro

Did she start?
well I took the battery to advanced auto and found out that it was dead. I got a new battery but its way to dark to install it now, so I'll just do it tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes tomorrow.

update***

I installed the new battery today and she fired up right away. I cut the car off and on about 3 times, with about 2 minutes between each and she would crank up right away. As of right now, I just need to find someone to weld my radiator. I've asked places like meineke but all they could tell me is that I have to take it to a radiator shop. I might have a friend here at school who's father welds, so hopefully that works out.

I've also noticed another problem, nothing too major. I pulled a pic from the net to give an example:

http://i40.tinypic.com/15yap8p.jpg

I've noticed when hitting the throttle, I see coolant spitting out here and there. Would it be a gasket?

You coolant leak is the thermostat housing (or water neck). There is a paper gasket there that seals it. It is something you can do yourself very easily with basic tools. Remove the two bolts holding it and pull it from the intake manifold. Carefully clean all old paper from the housing and from the manifold. If any bits of the old gasket get left it might break the housing when you install it.As long as you are this far it is a good idea to replace the thermostat also, a 180 degree unit will do. It is a good idea to use a little RTV Silicone sealant on the gasket too, just for added insurance. Reverse procedure to install.

Radiator: By welding, you must mean soldering. The outlets are soldered with lead/tin solder. Make sure that whoever does this for you is experienced with radiator work. A poor job of prepping the metal makes for certain failure and possible engine overheat and/or damage.

thanks man

ORIGINAL: JRs72RS

You coolant leak is the thermostat housing (or water neck). There is a paper gasket there that seals it. It is something you can do yourself very easily with basic tools. Remove the two bolts holding it and pull it from the intake manifold. Carefully clean all old paper from the housing and from the manifold. If any bits of the old gasket get left it might break the housing when you install it.As long as you are this far it is a good idea to replace the thermostat also, a 180 degree unit will do. It is a good idea to use a little RTV Silicone sealant on the gasket too, just for added insurance. Reverse procedure to install.

Radiator: By welding, you must mean soldering. The outlets are soldered with lead/tin solder. Make sure that whoever does this for you is experienced with radiator work. A poor job of prepping the metal makes for certain failure and possible engine overheat and/or damage.

actually about the welding, I'm pretty sure we have a mix up. I don't need any type of electrical repair, I'll find a pic to explain it a little better: http://i41.tinypic.com/mm8jew.jpg

I hope that helps.

With the gasket, would I be able to drive about 2 hours home fine?

ORIGINAL: abritto3
ORIGINAL: JRs72RS
Radiator: By welding, you must mean soldering. The outlets are soldered with lead/tin solder. Make sure that whoever does this for you is experienced with radiator work. A poor job of prepping the metal makes for certain failure and possible engine overheat and/or damage.

actually about the welding, I'm pretty sure we have a mix up. I don't need any type of electrical repair, I'll find a pic to explain it a little better: http://i41.tinypic.com/mm8jew.jpg

[&:] I hope you're just pulling JR's leg? If not, just say you were, maybe nobody will catch it! ;)
The outlets he was referring to, are the inlet/outlet necks of the radiator (as circled on your picture). Not an electrical outlet!

I just don't understand how soldering will hold that together, that's what I'm confused about. I always thought of soldering as use for electrical wires and stuff.

It's not soldered together with a little soldering gun like you would a wire.
It's "sweat soldered", heated with a torch and the solder is melted into the seam to join the two pieces together (after proper preparation). It's the same basic principle as sweat soldering copper plumbing pipes in your house.

ORIGINAL: Camaro 69

It's not soldered together with a little soldering gun like you would a wire.
It's "sweat soldered", heated with a torch and the solder is melted into the seam to join the two pieces together (after proper preparation). It's the same basic principle as sweat soldering copper plumbing pipes in your house.

thanks a lot man, now I'm really clear on the topic haha. I appreciate all the help

***UPDATE***

I recently found someone with a small chevy pickup truck that I want to trade my camaro for. He said he would take the camaro with the radiator break. Is there any way I could do a quick fix, instead of welding or soldering, like a bond or anything? I just need to get her back home.

if you're just looking to get it home, try some JB weld. i doubt you'll get a complete seal, but follow the directions, it'll probably work long enough to get home even if you wind up with a pinhole leak still. keep an eye on your temp. and don't jb weld it and call it fixed when you sell/trade it, i think we've all gone home with vehicles like this that really make you mad on the side of the road.

well i went ahead and got a new radiator and she's now in the hands of another camaro fan.