Alright I am in the process of redoing the front end. I was wondering who has bought a new hardware set? What did u buy? How did it work for you? I need to buy the set that has body mounts.


thanks guys!

Johnnynitro did the one with the 2nd gen clip. I am going to do mine next fall so I am interested in this question as well.

Mine is all new, I'll try to find out where the guy got them from.

I know rick's has them for 2 something But I wanna know how they work good or bad?

have you tried classic industries yet?

no I havent but I would like some feed back about the product

I replaced the ball joints from my local NAPA auto parts store. The Body bushings are from Energy Suspension (Hyperflex) Great stuff. I used them on my '67 as well. Nice tight feel. No more sway. I just bought the bushing kit from Energy Suspension too and installed that this weekend. It's been tricky for me 'cause i have to keep it straight when I'm buying parts for the '71 clip and the '69 body.
So, I got Body Mounts for the '69 and they work fine with the '71 subframe. The control arm bushings are of course all '71 and look great now that it's together. The Energy Suspension kits I bought from PAW. All of this should be online...soon.

I've said this before in another thread and I will always use these guys. Global-West make the best stuff out there (aside from one off custom pieces.

No squeaks. Less problems with bumpsteer. Will almost never wear out. No binding.....and so on.

They're a little more pricey, but the old saying "you get what you pay for" applies here too.

RM

so they have the bushing that are underneath body where the subframe connects to the body?

PAW does have them I know. I just bought 'em. I guess you can go to Global but for the same stuff (interlocking body mounts), you can get them from PAW for $98. And the upper and lower control arm bushings are $57.
So compare prices I guess. Th Energy Suspension stuff is really good.

check them out. http://energysuspension.com/pages/whatsnew.html

And also PAW
http://www.pawinc.com/

http://www.rickscamaros.com/online-store/scstore/graphics/fe-53.jpg

this is what I am looking for!

give me a few to look at the catalog and I'll send a link

that a boy, I knew I trained u well.

I was gonna do it yesterday,but you said you needed feedback.......buy the best theres a reason the big brands sell more,and there is a reason they are the big brands........

Well ricks sell the kit for 175.00

do you want the polyurethane bushings and mounts or the flimsey ruber ones, poly wil run about 200 for the set.

well not sure, bc its a tubbed car not gonna make it ride better lol

but does keep the car from flexing at those points puttin more ponies to the ground.

oh k. well sure then.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000136b~Z5Z5Z5AAKXQ~ P0.00~~~~S2270WNJWW76179606135a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z500001 36b
and
http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dyndetail~Z5Z5Z50000136b~Z5Z5Z5ADZAG~ P31.95~~~~S2270WNJWW76179606135a~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000 136b

thanks brother!

not a problem,so are you thinkin of the poly bushings?

Well I Know I need that hardware set from ricks I wanna replace every bolt on there soI have no problems.

I would get both, it's only about 150 more,then you'll have some extra stuff for the future....Dads car when his wear. but you will see a hege differance with the polt setup, and they don't squeek, I have the black set.

hmmm, might to that I have to do something soon bc the subframe is getting close to being installed

If you don't have the cash to do both then get the poly for now and re use the rest till later, its better to have 1/2 great parts then to have 100% 1/2 a$$ parts.

nahI would get all the parts.

http://www.classicindustries.com/downloadcatalog02.htmWhen you get home download the whole catalog, then you can get the parts you need without getting 2 kits and save a few.....you are going to race that right?

yes the car will be raced, not all the time maybe a few times here and there.

so ur suggestion upgrade all the rubber suspension parts as well as replace all the bolts on the car?

well get the poly then,1 loss sucks.

loss? what

You want to win use the poly, wanna come in with the rubber then 2nd is fine.

LOL I meant poly.

Ok just checkin, cuz you ain't gettin the tires back with the rubber ones.

i'll keep that in mind!

Well I just ordered the master hardware set from ricks 200 bucks I will let u know how everything is once it shows up.

Please do. I am more than likely going to be doing the same soon to my 69 and want to be smart about things before I go spending money.

My reason for this is so that every bolt is new and correct. I am tired of dealing with rusty bolts.

I know the feeling. I want to have replaced every nut and bolt on the car by the time I am done with it.

I almost got crazy and order about ten other parts opps.!

It easy to get carried away. I ordered parts once and when they came I was like 'I dont remember ordering these' and I dont even think I needed them at the time.

whats ur next step clp for the 69?

Good question. I am debating now if I want to A. throw the new 350 in and just drive it the way it is and do the body during the fall/winter. Or B. do the body now and have it to drive in the fall/winter. I have a new roof and rear quarters to put in, drum to disk fronts, 350, 700r4 and some misc stuff. I am gonna need help with some of the welding though. Its in drivable condition cosmeticaly now, so I havent decided whats next yet. I got a couple of weeks though, I am working on a 94 nissan pathfinder that needs a brake system flush and some minor stuff body wise, once its sold I cn start on the Camaro.

Well if ur gonna do it, then do it right. Similar to the saying " ur gonna go. go big" I would to the body now and then just finish the car. Be ready for next year. Never short ur self u will only hurt ur self. I am gonna do the frame then send it out for body and paint. Then wiring and motor.

I know what you mean. However, I might get too eager and just drop it in and go.

trust me I am eager also. I have my 431 just sitting in the garage WAITING!!!!!!

What if it's a 468?

then it will be WAITING still. Not ready to go in right now.

I am thinking I will get the brakes done then go from there. As it is now there are no brakes, I bled the system (lines only) and still no brakes. I will do a complete flush and install the new power booster and see if that does it. There I will decide what to do, if it needs a new master cylinder I will get one and go ahead and just do the rest of the body and all the paining and stuff, if not.... we'll see.

Are you thinking about buying a new mastercylinder and new brakes and lines?

Go figured the set is on back order.

The lines were replaced at some time by the PO, they are bright shiny and new! I will probably keep those, provided they stay good after removal. I have to check but, I can remember if the kit came with a new MC or not.

I would completely redo all of that, gotta stop u know!

I know but, they are pratically new. Everything else came with low cost rust or grime. The lines are obviously new, I will do a preassure test and see if they hold. Its not really a problem getting or installing newer ones, I would just as soon keep them if they work though.

how u lookin on the suspension?

Nuthin for now, I was thinking of using the stock stuff. I have some new coils and shocks, but otherwise thats it for now. I wasnt going to think about that untill I got there. I think I am going to have to generate my own list of thing to get as I go along. I know I will need a complete body nuts and bolts kit and seals etc... As far as suspention goes though..... not there yet.

blade, do you still have the rear frame rails in the car, or were those removed?

I have aftermarket ones in the car when I tubbed it.

Do you have any pic's of that blade? I have a bunch of rust down there, from the cursory inspection it is mostly surface, I am thinking I will get to that part eventually and I might need to replace it, or at least have some work done on it.

click the link under his sig, tryin to get pic's from him is like takin candy from a baby.

I have to wait to look when I get home, gubment computer. Wont display, or the link is bad.

let me know if you can't get them, I have them saved on mine and can email them.

I got them now. I won't be tubbing the rear like that. I do have some torsion bars that came with the car, maybe I'll use them maybe I won't. As for now it's just the leaf springs.

This is what I'm going to put on mine. That way it will still look stock but have the strength of a framed car. I don't know if you'll need all this but it looks cheaper then the stock frame rails , and stronger. .......I guess it would help if I added the link. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/productitem_10001_10002_749702_-1_56718

just tub the car

Alright Bolt kit has arrived. When I get home I will take a pic for everyone!

Lookin forward to it!

lets go with the pic's,I know your home.

lol actually I didnt go home last night, But I will be home tonight for sure after the gym and will take pics.

Dude, gettin pic's from you is like tryin to steel a peice of your girl. ...or motor secrets.

lol sorry. so ur trying to steel a piece from e?

i just want some pic's, of the car....but you would think I was tryin to get some E, the way you turn out pic's...........Where's your dads car?

in the garage!

Blade. Tell me about the ladder bar. I am curious. What are the pro's and con's for me to go from leafs to what you have.

Ladd bars are great for the 0-60 time, more for drag racing. If you want to drive tight corners stick with the stock setup, if your gonna run in a 10.5 class go with the ladder bar suspension. It's all about the launch,and the money you are willing to spend. Being that blade is a pro street nut he hill tell you to tub the car and toss on some fat tires cuz there is no seed to take a sharp turn at 65 mph. ......Ok while tryin to figure out how to explain in plain words how the ladder bars help to limit the twist of the rear end i did a search and came up with this, hope it helps. http://www.competitionplus.com/2004_10_21/chassis.html

Hey thanks 74. Now I know not to waste the money on them. I already have some traction bars, maybe I will install them in time.

what kind do you have, the ones that just u bolt up or the better ones. If they just have the 2 u bolts just toss them.

I think thats what they are. Came with the car along with a bunch of other crap in the trunk. I have managed to ID most of the random stuff. Sound like these bars will go to the scrap yard. I will check and see though. Blade another question, (74 if you answer this I will........ Well ) do you know of any good scrap yard I could take some of this stuff (sheet metal, old hood etc) and get some change for it?

http://www.superpages.com/yellowpages/C-Salvage+Companies+&+Yards/S-MD/T-Baltimore/

http://www.co.arlington.va.us/Departments/EnvironmentalServices/swd/EnvironmentalServicesSwdWasteRecycling.aspx

http://www.superpages.com/yellowpages/C-Junk+Dealers/S-VA/T-Richmond/

smarta$$

ORIGINAL: 74454bb

Ladd bars are great for the 0-60 time, more for drag racing. If you want to drive tight corners stick with the stock setup, if your gonna run in a 10.5 class go with the ladder bar suspension. It's all about the launch,and the money you are willing to spend. Being that blade is a pro street nut he hill tell you to tub the car and toss on some fat tires cuz there is no seed to take a sharp turn at 65 mph. ......Ok while tryin to figure out how to explain in plain words how the ladder bars help to limit the twist of the rear end i did a search and came up with this, hope it helps. http://www.competitionplus.com/2004_10_21/chassis.html


well whats true about that is, I am not a fan of taking turns in a car at 65 mph, bc I have my bike for that.

here's Blades hardware
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k5/neilandsaraht/hardware001.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k5/neilandsaraht/hardware.jpg

sweet man thanks.

I am so glad that all those bolts labelled.

Yeah that helps out alot, better then hand fitting.

So that was the entire body? How much was it?

yes entire bolt kit for the car. 85 bucks plus shipping so lil under 100 from ricks next week I will be ordering the rad support that is 117 shipped.

I will be getting the same bolt set then, better than the original crud. I have the rad support already.

count me in, it will still work with mine as well.

Blade. How about those scrap yards around here. I need to make some flow and have a bunch of metal to sell.

j ur buying the kit too?

clp not sure about any metal pits I will do a search and see what I can come up with.

Thanks. Dont worry about it though, I could do a search myself. Or with 74's help. I was thinking/hoping you already knew of a good place that would buy the scrap I got laying around.

Yep, whenI paint the car I want all new bolts showin.

I think that the price is the same for ur year.