Is It Worth It?
#11
07-25-2014, 06:01 PM
IMO you have two option. A leak down test to see if the issue is the rings or through in the towel and get a low miles use motor. If you wanted to start with inspecting the plugs and a compression test it might be a little easier but that will not pin point a problem like a leak down test.
Burning oil can come from worn/ cracked rings, bad intake gaskets, bad valve seals or worn valve guides. Any repair on a 200k motor is going to get costly quick. Bad ring become boring out the block and new pistons, bad valve seal becomes a valve job because the guides have too much play. That is why I suggested the low miles used motor. We have seen guys find 25K motors with a warranty for under $500.
#12
07-25-2014, 10:33 PM
Good assumption. If you are smoking that much you could have plug issue at this point.
IMO you have two option. A leak down test to see if the issue is the rings or through in the towel and get a low miles use motor. If you wanted to start with inspecting the plugs and a compression test it might be a little easier but that will not pin point a problem like a leak down test.
Burning oil can come from worn/ cracked rings, bad intake gaskets, bad valve seals or worn valve guides. Any repair on a 200k motor is going to get costly quick. Bad ring become boring out the block and new pistons, bad valve seal becomes a valve job because the guides have too much play. That is why I suggested the low miles used motor. We have seen guys find 25K motors with a warranty for under $500.
IMO you have two option. A leak down test to see if the issue is the rings or through in the towel and get a low miles use motor. If you wanted to start with inspecting the plugs and a compression test it might be a little easier but that will not pin point a problem like a leak down test.
Burning oil can come from worn/ cracked rings, bad intake gaskets, bad valve seals or worn valve guides. Any repair on a 200k motor is going to get costly quick. Bad ring become boring out the block and new pistons, bad valve seal becomes a valve job because the guides have too much play. That is why I suggested the low miles used motor. We have seen guys find 25K motors with a warranty for under $500.
#13
07-25-2014, 11:57 PM
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tokeland, Washington
Posts: 21,637
wrecking yard. heres some info on the many 3.8 engines that will work and more. go for a series 3 if you can.
https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...nt-info-57568/
https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...nt-info-57568/
#14
07-26-2014, 07:53 AM
I have a step by step PDF on removing the motor. If you PM me your email I can send it to you.
You will need engine lift to lift the body off the motor. It is not as hard as it sounds.
If you find a motor our of a Camaro make sure you do the intake gasket. It is a common issue and ease to do with the motor out.
I would also recommend replacing belt hoses and plug and wires. I bough a 96 in 2009 found a motor with 48K on it replaced all the wear items on it and I have been driving it ever since. 5 year 90,000 miles it have been the cheapest car to drive I have ever owned and still running strong. Check out my 96 build thread in my sig.
You will need engine lift to lift the body off the motor. It is not as hard as it sounds.
If you find a motor our of a Camaro make sure you do the intake gasket. It is a common issue and ease to do with the motor out.
I would also recommend replacing belt hoses and plug and wires. I bough a 96 in 2009 found a motor with 48K on it replaced all the wear items on it and I have been driving it ever since. 5 year 90,000 miles it have been the cheapest car to drive I have ever owned and still running strong. Check out my 96 build thread in my sig.
#15
07-27-2014, 11:15 PM
So, I bought one plug to swap out with cylinder #4 to see if it would solve the misfiring. For the life of be I couldn't get near the the darn plug! I tried going under and I couldn't get a hold of it and from the top the manifold is in the darn way! So i was trying to pull off the heat shield and I got the first half off (easy, 2 bolts) But I could not get the 2nd one to budge. Is there more than one bolt holding the lower half on? I assume so cause I saw another bolt hanging down but I wasn't sure, and I didnt want to go pulling stuff off without knowing what it was and digging my self deeper into the issue (plus I had to go to work in 2 hours and didnt feel like messing with it too much.) Is there a step by step guide on the forums on how to do a plug change cause GM sure made it tough to change something as routine as a plug changes. Or am I just going at it the complete wrong way?
#16
07-27-2014, 11:26 PM
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tokeland, Washington
Posts: 21,637
umm, lots of cuss words, if you drink, a 6 pack min. on mine, 93 with lt1, i take the alternator out to get 2 and 4. i use a swivel head long handle rachet with a short extension and a short plug socket. cant say for the 98-02. dont know why you would need to take the shield off.
#17
07-28-2014, 02:37 PM
umm, lots of cuss words, if you drink, a 6 pack min. on mine, 93 with lt1, i take the alternator out to get 2 and 4. i use a swivel head long handle rachet with a short extension and a short plug socket. cant say for the 98-02. dont know why you would need to take the shield off.
#19
07-28-2014, 04:08 PM
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Tokeland, Washington
Posts: 21,637
here it is, go here and download the 99fb file. there should be a breakdown of the exhaust and shields. should be able to see how its bolted down http://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti
Last edited by craby; 07-29-2014 at 08:42 AM.
#20
07-29-2014, 03:17 AM
Good assumption. If you are smoking that much you could have plug issue at this point.
IMO you have two option. A leak down test to see if the issue is the rings or through in the towel and get a low miles use motor. If you wanted to start with inspecting the plugs and a compression test it might be a little easier but that will not pin point a problem like a leak down test.
Burning oil can come from worn/ cracked rings, bad intake gaskets, bad valve seals or worn valve guides. Any repair on a 200k motor is going to get costly quick. Bad ring become boring out the block and new pistons, bad valve seal becomes a valve job because the guides have too much play. That is why I suggested the low miles used motor. We have seen guys find 25K motors with a warranty for under $500.
IMO you have two option. A leak down test to see if the issue is the rings or through in the towel and get a low miles use motor. If you wanted to start with inspecting the plugs and a compression test it might be a little easier but that will not pin point a problem like a leak down test.
Burning oil can come from worn/ cracked rings, bad intake gaskets, bad valve seals or worn valve guides. Any repair on a 200k motor is going to get costly quick. Bad ring become boring out the block and new pistons, bad valve seal becomes a valve job because the guides have too much play. That is why I suggested the low miles used motor. We have seen guys find 25K motors with a warranty for under $500.
