Oil Pressure Sensor????
#1
Oil Pressure Sensor????
I'm having an issue with my 95 Camaro. It has the 3.4 liter V6, the problem is that is keeps blowing the oil pressure sensor. it has blown 4 in the last 12 months. by "blown", I mean it will blow the seal out where the sensor wires go into the sensor causing it the leak oil. Does anyone have an idea of what's making it do this. I change the oil and filter every 4 months by the way. Thanks in advance for any help.
#2
What oil pressure reading are you getting, when the gauge is working?
Do you keep buying the same brand? Perhaps you're using a cheapo brand and need to try a different better one?
Do you keep buying the same brand? Perhaps you're using a cheapo brand and need to try a different better one?
#3
2X on trying a different sensor.
#4
what brand? i hope your taking them back and getting a new one. sounds to me like you got into a bad batch. ive done that with headlights. seemed like every 2 months i was changing a bulb. here is rockauto's different brand names and part numbers. ive tried to use acdelco when i can but standard has done ok for some things.
1995 CHEVROLET CAMARO 3.4L V6 : Electrical-Switch & Relay : Oil Pressure Switch Price
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PS283T T-Series
WITH GAUGE
$14.38
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PS283 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} OIL PRESSURE GAUGE SWITCH; Thread Size - NPT: 1/2" - 18 Thread; Blade Terminals; Terminal Gender: Male; Gauge Sender; Number of Terminals: 2; Connector Gender: Female
WITH GAUGE
$22.79
ACDELCO Part # 19244509
SENSOR,ENG OIL PRESS GA
$22.89
AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S6650 {#15955710, 24505969, 25305389}
WITH GAUGE
$29.89
ACDELCO Part # D8041 {#89057520}
SENSOR,ENG OIL PRESS GA CONVERTIBLE
SENSOR,ENG OIL PRESS GA 2 DOORS
$31.79
1995 CHEVROLET CAMARO 3.4L V6 : Electrical-Switch & Relay : Oil Pressure Switch Price
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PS283T T-Series
WITH GAUGE
$14.38
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PS283 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} OIL PRESSURE GAUGE SWITCH; Thread Size - NPT: 1/2" - 18 Thread; Blade Terminals; Terminal Gender: Male; Gauge Sender; Number of Terminals: 2; Connector Gender: Female
WITH GAUGE
$22.79
ACDELCO Part # 19244509
SENSOR,ENG OIL PRESS GA
$22.89
AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S6650 {#15955710, 24505969, 25305389}
WITH GAUGE
$29.89
ACDELCO Part # D8041 {#89057520}
SENSOR,ENG OIL PRESS GA CONVERTIBLE
SENSOR,ENG OIL PRESS GA 2 DOORS
$31.79
#5
I've tried AC Delco, Airtex, Duralast, and one other that I can't think of. I was using Royal Purple ($8.95/Qt.), but after it blew the first 2 sensors, I've switched to a less expensive oil. When I first put the sensor in, the gauge reads about normally, but after a couple of months, the gauge will start reading from 40 - 80 psi whenever the engine is running, at which point the sensor has blown, and then oil is leaking.
#6
I've tried AC Delco, Airtex, Duralast, and one other that I can't think of. I was using Royal Purple ($8.95/Qt.), but after it blew the first 2 sensors, I've switched to a less expensive oil. When I first put the sensor in, the gauge reads about normally, but after a couple of months, the gauge will start reading from 40 - 80 psi whenever the engine is running, at which point the sensor has blown, and then oil is leaking.
It sounds like bad luck with sensors but you can always get a 0-120 pressure guage and thread it in directly and get a more accurate reading. Could be higher and blowing it before the reading can reflect it.
I wouldn't recommend driving with it since you cannot monitor oil pressure and not to mention you will get that annoying check guages light on.
#8
Your correct, the check guages light would stay on and you would not be able to monitor oil pressure from inside the vehicle. It would give you a more accurate reading and shouldn't blow as long as it is rated high enough. 120 or 160psi gauge should be plenty.
You mention in the last year it has blown 4, how long have you had the vehicle?
Does it do this shortly after you change the oil?
What wieght of oil are you using?
Thicker oil will cause higher oil pressure since it doesn't pass through as easy as thinner oil(lower wieght). When the oil is cold it thickens, so when first started your oil pressure will be higher then after it warms up. Also when you first change the oil you should have a slightly higher oil pressure until the new oil gets worn down some.
The mfg recommends 5w30, if you are using 40 thats most likely the problem.
I would not suggest using anything other than what mfg recommends but using a thinner oil should lower your pressure some. If that is what it takes then you have a more serious problem that needs fixed.
If you have had the car awhile without problems and haven't changed anything that could cause this like switching to a thicker oil then it could be the oil pump's pressure relief valve, and from what i have read the oil pump is a pain to replace so cross your fingers.
I have never had the ***** to use seafoam on any of my vehicles but put into the oil it essentially thins it out and disolves a bunch of the build up which could potentially fix your stuck relief valve if thats what it is. Make sure to follow directions if you use it and not to drive very far before changing your oil afterwards. People suggest anywere from letting it idle 30 mins then changing to driving 100 miles first.
You mention in the last year it has blown 4, how long have you had the vehicle?
Does it do this shortly after you change the oil?
What wieght of oil are you using?
Thicker oil will cause higher oil pressure since it doesn't pass through as easy as thinner oil(lower wieght). When the oil is cold it thickens, so when first started your oil pressure will be higher then after it warms up. Also when you first change the oil you should have a slightly higher oil pressure until the new oil gets worn down some.
The mfg recommends 5w30, if you are using 40 thats most likely the problem.
I would not suggest using anything other than what mfg recommends but using a thinner oil should lower your pressure some. If that is what it takes then you have a more serious problem that needs fixed.
If you have had the car awhile without problems and haven't changed anything that could cause this like switching to a thicker oil then it could be the oil pump's pressure relief valve, and from what i have read the oil pump is a pain to replace so cross your fingers.
I have never had the ***** to use seafoam on any of my vehicles but put into the oil it essentially thins it out and disolves a bunch of the build up which could potentially fix your stuck relief valve if thats what it is. Make sure to follow directions if you use it and not to drive very far before changing your oil afterwards. People suggest anywere from letting it idle 30 mins then changing to driving 100 miles first.
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