94 camaro 3.4L NIGHTMARE! PLEASE HELP!
#1
94 camaro 3.4L NIGHTMARE! PLEASE HELP!
I have a 94 camaro 3.4l v6. the head gaskets were blown, so heres what ive done: i replaced the warped heads with brand new heads with new valves, springs, retainers, rockers, push rods, new head bolts and gaskets. i adjusted the valves to alldatas specs and continued on with the rest of the job. finished everything and also replaced the ingnition control module, all three coils, new ac delco copper plugs and new oe plug wires. i flushed the motor and refilled with fresh oil and filter. then tried to fire it up and it just cranked and cranked and back fired quite a bit. im getting fuel and fire. any ideas? i am desperate. ive been working on this car for 2 weeks and im soooooooo fed up with this car! some one please help me. thanks
#2
was the oil comtaminated with coolant, if so, how long did the car set with the bad oil in it. did you pull and clean the lifters? tell us how you set the lifters/valve rockers
#5
When you followed the alldata procedure, are you sure you started with the #1 piston at TDC compression stroke? If you didn't, that's your problem.
I actually prefer to adjust the valves individually, on the heel of the cam lobe, instead of the "easier" less accurate two-step method. One way is to adjust the intake valve as the exhaust is just opening, and adjust the exhaust valve as the intake is almost closed. Set your zero lash while pulling the valve stem up and down, not by turning it. I know the book says to give it 1 1/2 turns past zero lash, but I would rather give one turn a try. Sometimes less is better, and as long as you end up with quiet lifters with one turn, you're better off.
I actually prefer to adjust the valves individually, on the heel of the cam lobe, instead of the "easier" less accurate two-step method. One way is to adjust the intake valve as the exhaust is just opening, and adjust the exhaust valve as the intake is almost closed. Set your zero lash while pulling the valve stem up and down, not by turning it. I know the book says to give it 1 1/2 turns past zero lash, but I would rather give one turn a try. Sometimes less is better, and as long as you end up with quiet lifters with one turn, you're better off.
#7
Yes I set the valves at #1 piston tdc. My next step is to take a look at the chain and see if maybe she jumped timing. I'm not exactly sure how long the car sat with bad oil in it. I know it was at least a month. thanks for your help
#8
if the car sat and or was run with the coolant in the oil for any amount of time, the bottom end of the motor will fail early. the antifreeze being in the oil will ruin the bearings. i wish you would have came here earlier in the project, we would have recomended you find a used motor with low miles to put in the car. as you are now, and if you plan on keeping the car, i would recomend the main bearings and cam bearings be replaced. or find a used 3.4 with low miles and put your freash heads on it.
#9
Is it safe to say that you were driving the car up until the time you weren't because of the blown head gasket? So then you're suggesting that somehow while you had the heads off, the timing chain jumped itself? That's a good trick! Think logically here...the engine ran, although badly, you took the upper end apart and put it back together, now it doesn't run. Re-trace your steps with everything you put your hands to, and stop hunting for ghosts that are totally unrelated to the job you just did.
#10
Did you have the blocks deck checked for warpage? Im still fuzzy on why the timing is in question pulling the heads on an ohv engine doesnt require touching the cam/timing chain. did the engine get pulled/disassembled? do a compression test. I allways set rockers by installing all on studs tighten snug by hand, turn aditional 1.25 turns and fine tune with rngine running with plastic oil stops installed.