I have a 96 rs that blew a intake manifold gasket and was wondering the easiest way to replace it? I have a haynes manual but need more direction. It is the 3800 v6 model. I have a little mechanical background and would like to know more about my engine and its parts plus save some money then to pay 500 to have someone do it. Any help or pics would will do.

 

I used the haynes manual to do mine. You will have to use it for reference for torque sequence and torque values for different bolts. First thing you should do is use a digital camera to take as many snap shots as you deem necessary of sensor connections, vac tube locations, etc to put everything back together in case you find yourself wondering where something went Label the wiring connectors so you know where they will go back. Then, follow the manual step by step. There is no easy way!!!
Basically, disconnect battery, relieve fuel pressure, remove fuel lines, disconnect wiring harness, remove coil paks, remove fuel rail with injectors. Wrap in a plastic bag to keep dirt out of them. Remove the thermostat housing then remove the UIM and then the LIM.

 

ok thanks for the info but the haynes manual also said to remove valve covers..does that mean I have to get new gaskets for these too? Just curious on what "gaskets" I need to get the whole job done.

 

Here is a link with the kit you need.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._1422263589___

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_966073096___ (this one if you are just removing the UIM)

Just an FYI- If you think you might need a headgasket replaced anytime soon, I would consider doing it now as well. If you are doing the intake, you are already more than 1/2 way there. I believe you can get the upper intake manfold (plenium) off without removing the valve covers but replacing the valve cover gaskets will be a 10 minute job once all the other stuff is removed.

 

ok I still pretty sure my head gasket is good because i had it checked because I thought it was bad. The only question I have is do I have to drain any fluids for this?

 

+1 on taking pics with a digital camera before starting disassembly. I took literally dozens of pics before and during removal/disassembly of the 3.4 in my 94 and managed to miss a few key points. What position does the single long rocker cover screw go in? How is the injector harness routed into the upper intake? Stuff like that. Pics from the side, pics from above, etc. You won't be sorry.

And if you're doing the intake you will need to drain the cooling system.

I haven't worked on the 3800 in a Camaro but I had a 97 LeSabre with the Series II version. The upper intake got a hole near the EGR tube causing all the coolant to get sucked into the engine. Later the lower intake seals (so-called spaghetti seals) also leaked causing problems. I think every freakin 3800 does this. What a pain.

 

Also change your oil after your done but before you start the engine. There is a plastic elbow under the lower intake. You will see it when you take the intake off. You want to replace it. If there is not one in the intake kit you can get one at most parts stores in the "help" section.

 

okay im getting conflicting threads from everyone and when I looked in my haynes manual, it said nothing about draining fluids or replacing the elbow. Does anyone have an easier way then with all the different threads already posted??

 

I just changed my intake from one engine to another and I can help you here since it is fresh in my head.

Take lots of pics like they said above!! Use good lighting and use the highest setting the camera can handle. DO not try to rely on cell phone images most of the time they are not detailed enough to get the job done.

You can get the entire intake off without removing the valve covers, this is a good thing since the lifting hooks in the rear of the engine must be removed first.

Remove the MAF and thottle body first and put it some where safe. Remove the Alternator, remove the plug wires from the coil packs, remove EGR valve from the intake. Carefully and with the correct tools remove the fuel lines from the fuel rail, unplug fuel injector wiring, and remove the injectors. (you may have to remove the MAP sensor to get the fuel rail out, it is a tight squeeze) Once the rail is out of the way you can remove the upper intake, there are 2 bolts in the very rear that you are going to have to feel for, and there are 2 on the driver's side that are angled, and one of the thermostat housing bolts hold down the intake as well. Once the upper intake is unbolted you can carefully lift it out of the car.

The lower intake is pretty easy at this point but there are a couple of hidden bolts in the front right and the rear left. aside from that the lower is easy. By the time you get the upper intake off you will be able to see the little plastic hose that Gorn mentioned, they bread at the O ring easy and there are actually 2 of them. One on the intake to heater hose manifold and the other from the water pump to heater hose manifold. The help section sells both the elbows together with new O rings. REPLACE at least the one to the intake but I would say do them both since you have them and it is only a couple more bolts to take off. Make sure to chean out the ports the elbows go into to prevent any leaks. once the lower manifold is off then it is time to clean the heads.

Put down a sheet or 2 of strong paper towels (like the blue shop towels from the part store) in the valley and also shove a wadded up one in the intake ports BEFORE you start cheaning the old material off the heads. This will catch any debris from going into the valley and ports. When you are done cleaning remove the wads in the ports FIRST and then carefully remove the one from the valley as to not let the junk into the valley. Once you are all chean you can reinstall the gaskets and manifolds, in reverse order and follow the torque specs and patterns. Refer back to your pictures for placment of wires and hoses.

As for changing the fluids, no the book does not tell you that. It is just an unwritten rule that mechanics follow that the oil gets changed any time you open up the engine for more than just replacing a set of valve cover gaskets. Something I have done in the past as well pour some fresh oil down in the valley covering all the surfaces to wash the debris that escaped the rags and let it be drained when the oil gets drained at the end of the job. I know it sounds like a waste of oil but on grain of dirt can kill your motor so one $2 can of oil is worth it.

Now would also be a great time for a new thermostat and O ring, maybe the hoses as well?

And last but not least make sure you follow the cooling system purging process properly. There is going to be a lot of air in the system now and to purge it all you need to get the air out. There is a little brass screw on the top of the thermostat housing that will assist you in the process, you MUST crack that open to get the air out, the 3800's have the thermostat housing HIGER than the hose so the air will stay trapped there instead of going into the radiator like other engines do.

OK I think I said enough.

Massey.

OH yea one more thing. Use some carb cheaner on the injectors to chean them really good and then shoot the injector O rings before you put them back in so they slide into the holes easy and not rip the seals.

 

I started the project of replacing my intake manifold gaskets a year ago and then life got in the way. The car sat in my driveway, but now because of a complain from my HOA, I have to get the car fixed and inspected, or otherwise move it elsewhere. So last night I started attempting to move forward again. I originally had trouble with the black motor mount handle on the passenger side, because I couldn't get the bolt off the back of the engine. So I took a 2x4 and a hammer and bent it back just enough to get the bolt off of the intake manifold cover. Stupidly, I never took detailed pictures. I will start from this point, but I was hoping someone who had taken pictures might be willing to send me copies?