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engines turns over with no start after crank sensor replace

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Old 01-12-2015, 10:00 AM
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Default engines turns over with no start after crank sensor replace

Hi everyone. I have a 96 camaro 3.8l. I recently had to replace my crank position sensor and after installation of new one car will turn over but not start. I have exchanged part and still have same problem. Brand new icm, coil packs good and fresh plugs and wires? Any ideas before I have to overpay a professional would be greatly appreciated. This is my daily driver.

Edit: i am getting fuel. Pump kicks right on have new filter and fuel is getting to injectors
 

Last edited by jshblue8907; 01-12-2015 at 10:07 AM.
  #2  
Old 01-12-2015, 10:45 AM
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You replaced a bunch of stuff, but have you checked to see if the plugs and injectors are actually being fired?? Have you tested fuel pressure with a gauge, just seeing fuel at the rail does not mean much.
 
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Old 01-12-2015, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by z28pete
You replaced a bunch of stuff, but have you checked to see if the plugs and injectors are actually being fired?? Have you tested fuel pressure with a gauge, just seeing fuel at the rail does not mean much.
To be honest I haven't. I am going off it was running prior to replacing the original crank sensor. I was just getting random misfires and losing power momentarily while driving and barely was getting over 2500 rpms. scanner showed random misfire and bad crank sensor codes. my car also would randomly not start and to wait no certain amount of time just over 15 minutes generally and itd fire right up. So i changed out that sensor. A week prior i had just bought all new plugs and wires and replaced icm on warranty because it went out five months prior to now so it was running with all the new stuff until i changed the sensor. i was more curious if something could have happened from me changing the sensor. ill be honest i have no professional training ive just always done my own work on all my cars in my 9 years of driving, learning as i go and buying tools as needed. Had a mechanic buddy from out of town on the phone told me i was sold a dead sensor so i changed it out again and having same issue. I am currently on unemployment and am trying to get it back running cheaply so i can get back and forth to a job.

Edit: I have all data pro on my computer as reference and my haines book and researched online before pulling the harmonic balancer and used a correct puller so I would assume my process was correct.
 

Last edited by jshblue8907; 01-12-2015 at 01:40 PM.
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Old 01-13-2015, 04:53 PM
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Decided i need to take chill pill and test everything NOW instead of just jumping around guessing whats wrong and assuming that things are still operating correctly. Will get back to you when I've troubleshooted a bit more correctly.
 
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Old 01-13-2015, 09:22 PM
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Apparently something prompted the replacement of the sensor. A trouble code perhaps?
If so, it could be that the connector is defective instead of the sensor.
 
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Old 01-14-2015, 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by GaryDoug
Apparently something prompted the replacement of the sensor. A trouble code perhaps?
If so, it could be that the connector is defective instead of the sensor.
Yes, what prompted me to replace it was the symptoms itd been having since i bought the car last year and about two weeks ago started running very rough misfiring and losing power momentarily while driving down the highway. I plugged in my scanner and had p0336 p0300 showing. I bought the sensor because someone had also suggested that with the issues i was having previously was caused by it. after i popped the new one in no start. changed it out for another new one same problem. im learning but not very experienced other than minor work like just swapping parts so i didnt think about testing the plug or going through all the basic engine rotates but no start troubleshooting steps as was suggested to me above. Hopefully it warms up enough in my garage by tomorrow that I can get started on it again.
 
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Old 01-15-2015, 06:06 AM
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after trying to start a few times try scanning for trouble codes and see if you can get an idea where to look. it may be that the harness or connector to the sensor was thinking about taking time off and when you moved it around it went south. take connector off check for signs of damage and look inside to see if it looks like it will connect, sometimes the flexible part of the connector will get bent so as to not connect correctly.
 
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Old 01-17-2015, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by craby
after trying to start a few times try scanning for trouble codes and see if you can get an idea where to look. it may be that the harness or connector to the sensor was thinking about taking time off and when you moved it around it went south. take connector off check for signs of damage and look inside to see if it looks like it will connect, sometimes the flexible part of the connector will get bent so as to not connect correctly.
Unfortunately still not getting any codes from the scanner. I cleared it right before I changed the sensor out. I did find that I am not getting spark on any of the coil towers so the harness was what I was starting to lean toward. I would hope the control module hadnt went bad already I had just changed it out right before new years but I'll take a look at that plug and see if I can get it. I finally found a friend of my dads thats willing to help me sunday for free thats a lil more savvy with engines and electrical. I'll check back in after hopefully with my solution. I'm just ready to have this engine running smooth. I bought the car end of February last year and all I have left is a no purge issue, new oil pan and tranny pan gaskets, new struts and new front bumper cover and I think it should be in pretty great shape at that point.
 
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Old 01-17-2015, 08:58 AM
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if you have not already go here and download the factory service/shop manual. click on 1996fb http://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti
 
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Old 01-17-2015, 11:39 AM
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Can your scanner read sensor information? If so check to see if you are getting a RPM signal.

Just a FYI, new parts go bad and with aftermarket electronic stuff it is very common. It is rare to get a DOA item because they normally test right before they put it in the box. It has been my experience that if the electronic device lasts more than a month of every day use it is probably ok.

Back before car quality got so good most warranty repairs where in the first 3 month and 3,000 miles. There are not many parts on a car I have not had to replace with less then a 1000 miles on it. I can remember one new 1989 v6 Camaro that started missing 150 ft away for the trailer is was unloaded from. I think it had 18 miles on it so whatever failed made it through at least 15 miles of testing.
 

Last edited by Gorn; 01-17-2015 at 11:50 AM.


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