99 firebird 3800 2. Overheated. A month later spun bearing. Checked oil didn't notice any problems. Anyways. Was going to v8 swap but I believe my intelligence leads me to believe not worth the headache. I'll just buy an Ls camaro for 2500 and rebuild. So I'm rebuilding my v6. Only 80,000 on he engine should be in great condition 3rd owner car with maintenance documentation and overall pretty clean. So my question is what is my cheapest and most reliable way to build this short block with preparation for a turbo setup next year. And I mean reliable. I'm not going to go with some crazy amount of boost. Not looking to beat v8 at the track. Just get some good responsive performance reliably. I have 1500$ to work with. Any help would be appreciated. The 1500 is not for turbo. Just the rebuild. Can it be done? Is it dangerous for me to port and polish my own heads. I'll be doing all the work myself besides machining and can bearing install. Thanks I hope someone has turboed this 3800 with success.

 

not for 1500 and do right. why not pick up a low mile series 3 3.8. lots of them around and you pick up 20 or so hp. have a look here https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...nt-info-57568/ also if you are set on what you want look here. https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...sleeper-40642/

 

Another set of tips for you is this project where they add ponies and other improvements, 6 part series:

- Tom Henry RS V6 Camaro Project

 

3800 Turbos are more common in the FWD world. First you need a realistic goal. We had a member named Musicman who did a higher end build but blew that motor the first season.

You could easily tie up 5K building a bottom end of a 3800. I think most of the guys that are going 3800 are using stock motors and focusing on the tune to apply power gradually.

Honestly if you want to go fast with a V6 the 3800 turbo is the way to do it but it will cost you as much or more to get to the speed of a LS1 as it would cost you to buy a LS1 car. You will max out your 3800 at about the starting point of the LS1.

The concept that a motor that has overheated and spun a bearing is going to be "in great condition" is very optimistic. When cars over heat the top ring tend to gouge the cylinders enough to require a boring operation and the spun bearing is going to mean at lease one rod is done, crank is fubared and most likely there is metal shaving everywhere. I would expect at least $2500 in parts and machine work before you are done just to get it back to stock. I have been building motors since the mid 80s and if you gave me the choice between a motor that has overheated and spun a bearing with 1500 miles on it or a motor that still ran with 125,000 miles, I would want to rebuild the one that has not overheated.

Search Musicman follow his early threads and note he moved to a different site but read his early stuff it could stop you from making the same mistake. Keep in mind Musicman want to go fast in a V6 he already had a V8 fox body to play with.

 

That's the info I'm looking for fellas. I do appreciate the response. As I use to do mild builds on small blocks and install and go. This is a little above my usual project but I guess I took interest being I like my f body. I was hoping i d get some info in other short blocks from supercharged engines would handle boost. But that is OK if its not. I'm not going to dump thousands into v6. Just thought if I coukd change out the block do a couple small mods to turbo I'd be in good shape. I'll check all the info you guys left for me. I'm definitely on a budget. I paid 3000 for the car to have it blow up 2 months later. Didn't expect that. But I am considering going with a different series block. I believe I seen one of the comments suggested an option I'll look into. Is that block my best option. And what is too many miles on this block I'll be purchasing? Thanks again.

 

I'm definitely not set on what I want. That's why I'm here before I make stupid decisions. I am most certainly set on reliability and doing things right. I don't build bombs. Lol I am a performance enthusiast and looking to get most out of my motor with a low budget good work ethic and doing my homework. And I believe your right about the series 3 engine. Quick question. I can use the whole long block from series 3 with my intake and all bolt ons from my original. Correct?

 

Yes the long block is the same.

Low budget and turbo builds rarely go hand in hand though the word reliable can be no where in that formula.

Take the turbo out of the 3800 and you have a very reliable motor. I did my swap almost 100K miles ago and she is still running strong. Now that the body is pushing a 1/4 million miles everything else is showing its age.

 

OK gorn I appreciate the help. I have made the decision to take good advice go with a used long block. Now I have read all these threads about what is interchangeable and not. So I'm certain on what I can and cannot do. My question. Is there a specific year and long block that would give me more performance than others. Taking in consideration of different parts. Like roller rockers. Shorter rod length. Piston dish flat or dome. If you were going to choose a specific long block to rebuild for a 99 firebird what would you choose for best performance? What year. Make and model? Would it be smarter to go with an original n/a motor simply for higher compression assuming they lowered compression for s/c engine.

 

2004-2007 series 3 supercharged vin 4 RPO l32 engine 8.5:1 . 260 HP but I'll lose some minus the supercharger. Or do I go with the naturally aspirated version l26. Vin 2 205 HP with a higher compression ratio. 9.4:1. With doing mods in my future which is the best option?

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/v6ca...h/?query=turbo