3.8 Oil Pressure
#22
if those pleats were scrunched in like that without your help it was plugged bad. I've seen fuel filters do that but never a oil filter. did you spread the pleats, nasty stuff is usually stuck way in the corner part.
#23
I put a hose in the threaded hole and sucked the oil through the filter so it wouldn't be a mess when I opened it and it came through.
Last edited by Sophm; 06-11-2014 at 12:54 PM.
#24
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,351
If there is really that much crap in your oil that you are filling up a filter that fast you need to flush the system which involves a lot of oil and filters along with some sea foam.
#25
Generally, as a filter becomes saturated with crud, oil pressure will drop as the pressure reading is taken from the back side of the filter in the oil gallery.
Even when the filter clogs & the by-pass valve opens, lower oil pressure is also indicated.
Flush that thing, and be ready to change oil & filter several times to get the crap out of the motor.
Even when the filter clogs & the by-pass valve opens, lower oil pressure is also indicated.
Flush that thing, and be ready to change oil & filter several times to get the crap out of the motor.
#26
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,351
Add Sea foam to you current oil per manufacturer’s instruction. Let the car idle 30 minutes (do NOT drive) in your case watch oil pressure.
Change oil to a cheap oil and filter and do the sea foam again another 30 minutes.
Change to you regular oil and a good filter. Change your oil/filter every 1000 miles until you see that it is staying clean.
Change oil to a cheap oil and filter and do the sea foam again another 30 minutes.
Change to you regular oil and a good filter. Change your oil/filter every 1000 miles until you see that it is staying clean.
#29
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,351
I am curious how does cleaning the sludge out of your motor decrease oil pressure?
The crude is not in the oil passages. It is in the non-pressure area.
As the sludge hardens with age it will release little hard carbon deposits. Once your filter starts to plug the bypass will open a little and let the tiny hard carbon particles will get into your lifters. Also you risk larger sections of the sludge breaking away and plugging the oil return holes in the heads. It can also plug up the pickup tube. I have seen both plugged pick tubes and plug oil returns cause major engine failure. If your filter is plugging up that fast I would bet the pickup in the oil pan is at least partially plugged.
Every once in a while the dealership would take a sludged up car in on trade. We had two choices, Pull the valve covers and oil pan, clean them then flush the oil twice or send it to the auction.
I have seen cars that were so plugged up under the valve cover so bad that the valve cover became a sludge mold. Over 2500 RPMs the oil dummy light would come on because the oil could not drain back to the pan fast enough. Those cars needed the crude scoped out not flushed. I can remember a 2.8 I did that was smoking like a train. Cleaned it out and new valve seals, plugs and O2 sensor, she ran great.
The crude is not in the oil passages. It is in the non-pressure area.
As the sludge hardens with age it will release little hard carbon deposits. Once your filter starts to plug the bypass will open a little and let the tiny hard carbon particles will get into your lifters. Also you risk larger sections of the sludge breaking away and plugging the oil return holes in the heads. It can also plug up the pickup tube. I have seen both plugged pick tubes and plug oil returns cause major engine failure. If your filter is plugging up that fast I would bet the pickup in the oil pan is at least partially plugged.
Every once in a while the dealership would take a sludged up car in on trade. We had two choices, Pull the valve covers and oil pan, clean them then flush the oil twice or send it to the auction.
I have seen cars that were so plugged up under the valve cover so bad that the valve cover became a sludge mold. Over 2500 RPMs the oil dummy light would come on because the oil could not drain back to the pan fast enough. Those cars needed the crude scoped out not flushed. I can remember a 2.8 I did that was smoking like a train. Cleaned it out and new valve seals, plugs and O2 sensor, she ran great.
#30
any build up on bearing surfaces that is removed would cause a loss of pressure, seals with build up removed would also be free to leak if they are not flexible or are worn past the point of sealing properly. good way to tell how bad it is would be to remove valve cover or better yet intake manifold and have a look.