Transmission pull/replace clutch fork

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  #41  
Old 09-05-2016, 09:08 AM
2ToeRacing's Avatar
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I don't think that will make the clutch work better.It'll help to make the trans work correctly. You still have air in the system. When I bleed a system,......I get it to where the paddle feels good and I'm getting ONLY fluid when I open the bleeder. I start the car,push the clutch down ONCE and try to move the shifter into reverse. If it doesn't go then you have more bleeding to do,(JUST HOW I DO IT) something ITS A pita.
 
  #42  
Old 09-05-2016, 12:36 PM
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What did you stick in it? T56 requires ATF not gear oil or engine oil.
 
  #43  
Old 09-05-2016, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by MKCoconuts
What did you stick in it? T56 requires ATF not gear oil or engine oil.
it was ATF dex 3
 
  #44  
Old 09-05-2016, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 2ToeRacing
I don't think that will make the clutch work better.It'll help to make the trans work correctly. You still have air in the system. When I bleed a system,......I get it to where the paddle feels good and I'm getting ONLY fluid when I open the bleeder. I start the car,push the clutch down ONCE and try to move the shifter into reverse. If it doesn't go then you have more bleeding to do,(JUST HOW I DO IT) something ITS A pita.
so you think i still have air in the line? i dont have a bleeder my cars a 94. I mean the clutch pedal feels great. Which is why i dont think i have air in the lines.But i will start it up and try to see if i can get put it into reverse.
 
  #45  
Old 09-05-2016, 08:12 PM
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Reverse is a non-synced gear. When you can not get a manual trans in reverse it is mostly likely because the clutch is no fully disengaging. It is possible this is because of your hydraulic system.

But...
What made you think the clutch fork was bad? Any idea what happened to it? How was the clutch working before the failure? It is common as a diaphragm clutch the pressure plate warps and will not disengage completely. They can also get hard to push as they fail. The fear would be the clutch started to fail, the fork broke you repaired the symptom of the failing clutch but the clutch is still bad.

Normally these system will self bleed over time. I have seen in in both my Lt1 and my 3800. Crappy clutch while I was bleeding it. Walked away for a week or so, clutch worked great.
 
  #46  
Old 09-05-2016, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Gorn
Reverse is a non-synced gear. When you can not get a manual trans in reverse it is mostly likely because the clutch is no fully disengaging. It is possible this is because of your hydraulic system.

But...
What made you think the clutch fork was bad? Any idea what happened to it? How was the clutch working before the failure? It is common as a diaphragm clutch the pressure plate warps and will not disengage completely. They can also get hard to push as they fail. The fear would be the clutch started to fail, the fork broke you repaired the symptom of the failing clutch but the clutch is still bad.

Normally these system will self bleed over time. I have seen in in both my Lt1 and my 3800. Crappy clutch while I was bleeding it. Walked away for a week or so, clutch worked great.
Well i was pushing the car a bit early summer, i tried shifting into 1st and then i heard a loud grind noise, i found out later in the inspection that my clutch fork snapped in half. I drop the trans remove the clutch fork, replace it with a brand new one. I tried to start it up, i could get it into 1st and 2nd but reverse was really hard to get into. So i tried adjusting the pedal/manually pumping the clutch, no luck. Clutch was working flawlessly before the fork went.
 
  #47  
Old 09-05-2016, 08:44 PM
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i still think its got to do with the clutch, cant remember, you changed the clutch? only other thing i can think of is the trans is not quite lined up right. sure sounds like something is draging in there. if you pump the clutch a few times before trying to put into gear will it change anything?
 
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