This project is finally getting underway. It's been many years in the works, I was just waiting for the right time to start. For anyone who does not know my car, she is a 1998 3.8 auto. I hit 14.9 at the 1/4 with some bolt ons (mods in sig).



Before I begin, however, I want to clearly state that I am not interested in anyone's advice or opinion about working my V6. I have a V8 already and I'm good with that. This is my car, my money, and my build. If you don't like it, then move along and keep your mouth shut. If you have legitimate questions, feel free to ask. I am starting this thread to document my build, that's it.

Now that I said that, this is what officially began my build. I intended at the beginning of the year to finally get this going this winter (2015). I planned on budgeting about $5k for the build. The engine only had about 40K on it, so I figured a mild build would be sufficient to get started. After just the first pass at the 1/8th mile, we discovered I had a shifting issue from 2-3. I only made a few passes because this was concerning me and I couldn't get anymore out of her because of this. I was, however, faster than a 305. But anyway. We looked into the tuning and adjusted the shift points and tried again at a different track later. This was the 1/4 and unfortunately, I still had the same issue. Case spent time retuning and adjusting the shift points during the test and tune, but she was just not responding to anything. The parameters were sent to HP Tuners to have them investigate and they came back saying it's not the software. So that pretty much leads to it being something mechanical is not responding (only happens WOT during 2-3 shift). While trying to look into this further, the oil was changed and then came the bad news. My oil looked like freaking Twilight. A bearing was pulled and it definitely wasn't looking good.




So at this point the car was done driving for the year. She's been parked since the beginning of August. And now that I need to rebuild the engine again, my budget doubled. So I began more extensive research to figure out what to upgrade internally. I just ordered a bunch of stuff this past friday (the black friday deals were too good to pass up and I save a lot of money by waiting).

EDIT 1/8/17:
This is my updated parts list for the car. Several things were changed/modified from the original purchases because of failures/unexpected errors and problems. This list breaks down the entire car, inside and out. There's of course a few other miscellaneous parts here and there I didn't include, but this is about everything.


Exterior Modifications:
Racestar Darkstar wheels, 96-97 SS Spoiler, VFN Sonoco hood, Black Angel Halo headlights, early 4th gen taillights, pink decals, Emblempros badges

Interior Modifications:
Custom replacement gauges (Autometer), ACC lightweight replacement carpet, RJS racing belts, replacement seats, painted black interior, removed rear seats and seat belts

Performance:
Custom SFI certified balancer (BHJ Dynamics)
Double roller timing set (ZZP)
Extra thick front cover gasket (ZZP)
Oil neck spacer (ZZP)
Oil pump kit (ZZP)
Clevite rod and cam bearings (Intense Racing)
Tial 38mm wastegate (Real Street Performance)
Tial 50 mm BOV (Real Street Performance)
Precision 5862 journal turbo (Real Street Performance)
Siemens 60# Deka injectors (Intense Racing)
Mishimoto intercooler (Summit)
Yella Terra rockers 1.7:1 (Intense Racing)
ZZP 4340 H-Beam connecting rods with ARP bolts (ZZP)
Diamond uncoated forged pistons 8.0:1 (Intense Racing)
ARP main stud kit (Intense Racing)
ARP main cross bolts (Intense Racing)
Fender Exit exhaust
COMP Cams Pro Magnum Hydraulic Roller Lifters
COMP Cams Hi-Tech Pushrods 7795-1 7.375 in. Length
Moroso Breather Tanks 85402
Taylor Spiro-Pro Spark Plug Wires
Allstar Performance Hood Pins
Custom forward facing headers made from old Pacesetters
Intense Racing Stage 2 Turbo Cam (duration @ .050": 214º/206º, lobe lifts: .331"/.320", valve lifts with 1.60:1 rocker arms: .530"/.512", lobe separation angle: 116º, intake centerline: 110º)
Intense Stage 1 head work
Manley Titanium retainers
PAC 130# Valve Springs
Cometic .060” 4 layer MLS Head Gaskets
Battery relocation to the trunk
Racetronix 98 LS1 fuel pump
NGK plugs
Taylor killswitch
Ebay intercooler tubing kit
Ebay T3 Carbon Fiber Turbo Blanket
Stark Pink Exhaust Header Fiberglass Heat Wrap
LS1 Camaro Firebird Oxygen O2 Sensor Header Extension

Suspension/Chassis:
S&W roll bar, KYB adjustable coilovers, Spohn Tubular K Member, BMR strut tower brace, UMI panhard bar, UMI subframe connectors, UMI front and rear sway bars, KUMHO tires, UMI relocation brackets, UMI lower control arms

Drivetrain:
3:42 gears, Corvette servo, shift kit, Precision Industries Vigilante torque converter 3600 stall

Electronics:
2 10" Kicker subs, Sony 800w amp, JVC headunit





I had a different K member ready to use, but we ran into problems with that yesterday while trying to install it. It didn't fit and some of the welds flat out were ugly. I'm not going to get into this mess to explain this issue, but I ordered a better looking one from Spohn. So while I'm waiting on my parts to come in, the interior was stripped out to get ready for the cage and replacement carpet.




I also bought new wheels for her, which was not intended yet, but I got a good deal on them and couldn't pass it up. Darkstars from Racestar.



This build will be completed with a trip to Ohio in the spring to visit John at Intense Racing for a full dyno tune. We still have to figure out the shifting problem at some point before the dyno tune. It may be something with the valve body. So it'll either need repaired or replaced if that's the case. The car isn't going anywhere for a while, so there's time to sort it out.

 

kool, i have had all good products from spohns. are you considering a manual valve body for trans?

 

Spohn is actually a fairly local company for us (just a few hours away). They were nice to talk to on the phone, this will be our first experience with their products. I'm not sure on the valve body, we don't know if that's even what the problem is. When we found the bearings, we just kinda threw our hands up in the air about it because of my sparkly oil. The trans was just rebuilt and only had maybe 1,000 miles on it if that. I don't know if there's anything else that would cause my issue. It was hitting the rev limiter and bouncing off of it at WOT only from 2-3.

 

A transmission place should be able to pressure test your trans. I am not an expert on the electronically controlled trans but I think the shift points are controlled by a combination of computer and internal pressures. If a seal or accumulator is leaking internally it can cause a delay or no shift at all. It is a simple test done on a lift with a hydraulic hand held gage but it will need a running engine. I would say if the pressures are good valve sticking in a the Valve body is about all that is left.

 

I believe you are correct Gorn. Mines a mixture of electronic and 'mechanical'. I think Case did call our trans shop about it a while ago and they something about a spring in the valve body might be failing? I can't remember. And it would have to be taken to them to test. I just don't know when this will end up happening. I'm thinking worse case scenerio is I'll need a new valve body if it's not worth repairing.

 

manual valve body would take the computer out of the shifting process. you would shift up and down. pita for a daily driver unless you like shifting. as you can see in sig i have several spohns things and they are tough.

 

Just for the record, manual valve bodies aren't that bad for daily driving. I thought it would be but it isn't. Less work than driving a stick.

 

Some parts have been delivered! Still have more to come.

 

sooo nice. what brand rockers

 

Yella Terra. Also came with the pushrods.