93 does not have a maf (only year 4th gen) so it can do that.

 

So I got some work done on the car yesterday. Kept having a part throttle misfire so I check the plugs, they look good with a nice light gray coating. The car threw a light for Code 13 which is an open circuit for the O2 on the drivers side. I remembered that the connector for that side got torn off at some point and I had to put it back on. Although, I thought I had a good connection, I didn't. So I cut the connector off each end for now and spliced a weatherproof butt connector in until I can get a new connector. Took her for a spin and misfire was gone.

So, now that I got that and the rockers squared away, next on the list is:

Find 3.42 or better gears for the rear. The cam and the 2800 stall do not like the 2.73 rear gears.

Different wheels

Possibly a M6 swap. After driving my buddies with a M6, I've grown fond of it

Sub-frame connectors

Then interior work. New carpet (again), dash, a nice sound system, new door panels.

 

I notice with more power my rear end sometimes likes it an other time feels like it wants to drop out a grabs hard .then smooth ,I know its just a matter of time to the rebuild of it. or fords 9 .after looking at that thread to rebuid the 8,5 seems a good way to save money,i don't dare trying to throw to much at it ,when I got my car ,I heard guys saying the lt1 could handle 500hp the rear can handle like 450 hp mabey new built the right way ,I think some guys like to act like there bullet proof but there not not .tough but all seals get worn an wear most of our cars are 20+ years old now ,i want a moser rearend but they cost a lot ,I think I may be wrong but gearing to about 3.56 seems about right for 400hp to 450hp ,

 

mine was not good with 323's so i bet yours is bad. with 370s i am about 2000 rpm going 60

 

I still have the 8.5 in the works, just haven't had any time to get around to it. Honestly, I'll probably be okay the 7.5 for quite a while. The gears in this case are killing me. I haven't used 4th once yet with 2.73s. But the trans is slowly losing 2nd...so the gears and trans are gonna probably end up being done the same time. If I find a six speed to swap, it's getting 4.10s.

Did the first data log on the car. She's running nicely. When I get the chance, I'll get the fine tune done, but it should be good.

 

what kinda hp you making tlbs ,that may be what I need , I I was wrong when I said 8.5 I just have the old 10 bolt 7.5 ,its either the ujoits or drive shaft ,or rearned that grabs hard sometimes mostly from first to second not 3rd,i get the chirp of the tires from 1 to 2 ,an sometimes 3rd wich one guy said would not happen,got to be there ,the tlbs I think does that ,so the strengthening thread for the 10 bolt get out to 3.43.that is what I am going to do with new ujoints ,it seems all someone with 450hp needs ,for a lot less the ford 9,mine is like only 325hp to the wheels I found mine was a bit underated ,but right way to know is a Dyno run,then with some different heads I could pull out 500HP + an a big 520tlbs,but at the wheels would be 400hp ,wich seems to fall into what the rebuild says it can handle,so mine it the 2,73 wich now I don't think will last if I throw to much at it ,I better be careful .now understanding a little bit about what you guys are takeing about

 

Honestly, I have no clue what power is and couldn't even make a reasonable guess if I tried. All I know is I want the car to run high 11s or low 12s. If I can hit that, I'll be happy for a while, if not, I'll find me another block and build something badder.

 

12 bolt would be best for rear, 9in are heavier. i would have went 12 if i was not thinking of using nos. i would say around 350 at the wheels maybe 375. what compression you go with mc, mine is close to stock and will change to 12 or 12.5 to 1 when i have the chance

 

if I was raceing I would want like a 8 or 9 second car ,but that's pretyfast I have a friend has a built up Subaru that runs in the 7s to 8s an I he gave me ride in it one time wow fast ,though its much cheaper to make the jap cars go faster ,cost hime like $8000.00 to do that ,our cars would cost 3 to 4 times that to run the low #s,? is if you don't know the numbers then how do you know whats right for the car ,yes the ford ,or moser rearned I would if I was raceing it 1/4th mile for me it entering the highway,you may be surprised to know the #s what a good dyno tune can do ,to get you more hp

 

I'm gonna try and make the 8.5 work. The most I'll be out of is $200...which for me is an acceptable loss of money to make something work. If I can't, a Strange 12 bolt would go in just because I'd want to keep it GM, and a 12 bolt is good for more power than I'll ever put down.

Craby, if I were to guess, I'm probably still in the 10.7-11.0 range with heads being trued and the thinner gasket that Fel-Pro offers. If I ever redo this engine or find another to build, it will get 12-12.5:1, and still live easy on 93oct like it does now.

These cars aren't too bad to build, cost wise. There are guys hitting mid 10s without touching the insides of an LS1 engine and no power adder.

As it sits, the Camaro will be getting the odds and ends to make it perfect but I am looking for my next project which will be an AMC Javelin. If I can't find one, I'll just end up building more on the Camaro, which seems like a more likely scenario since Javelins are hard to find.