PM sent

 

thank you I tried it I don't have much trouble posting hear or the garage but still cant load it, oh well is not that big a deal,soon i will load one up from you tube got the air filter in place now ,an the guy I got the alternator from ,is making me a 200 amp that will charge at idle 700 to 900 rmps an a smaller pulley about an inch smaller i got a 30amp amp for the speakers boom box an cameras for the wrong places ,looks better with the air cleaner an got near an inch atleast not touching,i did want to ?ill the mech a few times now but its against the law JOKE,don't know what he was thinking looking back I still got a lot of stuff to power,soon going to change oil an adjust the valves,most I can do myself ,I found out yesterday that turbo 350 chits an gets ,they sell used cars an the sales guys said I would play hell chirping 3rd well I did it buy accident ,the stall seems so much higher then I was told ,can feel the rear is wineing for help ,,seems working out the ****** ,I got to say though if I had it to do again I would have gone another way,but I think a guy can like I said cut the time in half buy reading thread an asking questions ,should anyone deside they want to do it ,for real i want to the mech has got me so mad at times during this easy build ,ya right guys aahh,know better now,yes next year going to put some shorty headers an run straight pipes I know i said it alot ,but its only a few short months till spring I meen winter .no matter whear I go the car turns heads more then ever an vibrates the tree next to my garage I am impressed with the power of the 406 350 turbo combo ,an that's all that matters skeptics

 

Car is running great I figure I got about 3 to 400 miles on it now have not been keeping track to much ,but I am going to empty out the oil an put the 5 other extra quarts they sent me for joe gibbs for about 2 weeks ,the engine wants high octane I had been getting ping now an then I think its the gas station ,but also I got some booster gumout makes ,in the past gas addatives other then stabil for storing,i put an ounse for each gallon an I amm getting very noticeable improvement in gas milage it was already improveing ,but now I may swear buy it? ,what do you guys think about adding this ,I may buy a case an at $3.00 per week 93 octane not sure how much it brings it up but no ping,at some point I will get #s for milage if I can get 13 to 15 after tuneing valve adjustment an moveing the fuel pump to rear wheel well,i think I canget close to what the lts had not to close i know couse what I got with the more power 350 turbo ,it seems to be running better all the time ,I did put stp with zinc as it was about half quart low ,an when I change it again in 2 weeks ,vr1 I will use in the car ,I think it worth it about 36.00 but I do my own oil changes anyhow ,the oil looked pretty good did not change filter yet ,at 1000,i will ,time for a sunday drive ,after all the headaches I am feeling much better ,I again priced 383 strokers lt1. I would have been into that 3 times 6 ,at 18000.00 for a gm an a tranny to go with it ,then the rearend to handle it $21.000 then an then ,I would have shopped to save some ,but realy my research shows ,I did ok considering ,what I got ,guys have spent more for less ,YES,i think some states sell higher octane like 95 I may be wrong as I often am

 

Back off your timing a little to stop the pinging. Running the boost additive a few times a year for drag trips is fine but running it all the time is going to eat up your plugs.

If you can hear pinging you are hurting your motor. EFI knock sensor pick up pinging long before a human ear can hear it. If you pulled your heads off today I could tell by looking that the car was pinging.

 

ok will do that I am set this Friday to do al the thing for this year pretty much thanks gorn

 

we backed off the timeing today, covered the hole for the tank adjusted the valves,changed the oil ,went with vr1 20/50 ,I desided with more high profomance motor it runs hotter,an heavey oil fits ,,going to move the fuel pump to rear wheel so it pushing more then pulling ,the tranny is shifting a lot better now too the breakin I would say is about half over about 500 miles,i would say 1000 miles should be good though I wont change the oil now till spring ,got a small exhaust leak on right side but that why I am puting headers in the spring ,that's what the knocking was thought to be at cold starts,,so that gives more insentive to get the headers even more ,I got a set of mechanical gauges on the way ,no regrets now ,other then not doing the headers now,but I want to run a whole new system ,is going to run about $1000.00 $800.00 if I shop ,running great ready for longer rides ,the smaller pulley on the alternator is working good but will keep an eye on it ,another thing will work during winter there is not a lot of room there for a bigger one ,so we got to make the mini work ,I think it looks alot better then the lt1 ,I would say go for it guys ,I am feeling much more confident behind the wheel ,I got to say I feel like I have an engine now ,efi is overated ,computers all the junk one friend used to say ,we got along for near 80 years without them ,its round # ,personaly I only use a computer couse it does have its perks ,the app thing is out of hand ,though that being said if you make the right one you can get rich ,what people wont buy to entertain them self ,new cars if no one has noticed are getting recalled more an more an parts are failing like crazy ,its a racket ,though if I had the money I would have ls7 in 70.who won that darn car I entered with like 4 hours left the 70 orange an black I would sell it after driving it for few years wonder what the value of that car was ,mabey one of the 90 guys who never say anything can answer that , ,the person who did win got one hot fine ride

 

No offense, but that logic does not really work. That oil is nice in situations where the engine is under constant heavy load (i.e. circle track racing). But for something that's being driven around town, you will most likely be fine with 5W- or 10W-30. Something I picked up from an article I read that went into extensive detail on engine oil, is a good way to determine what viscosity of oil that is best for your particular driving is to drive with a few different viscosity oils and go with the thinnest one that does not cause a major drop in oil pressure. The reason behind that is oil helps shed heat from the engine. If the oil is too thick, it will not return to the pan fast enough to shed the heat or be recirculated fast enough to protect the engine, causing more wear and the oil to fail prematurely. A 20W- oil is also pretty thick at start up and takes a good amount of time to start flowing steadily. Even in the article he explains that a 5W- oil is too thick at start up, but is not as bad as a 10W- or 20W- oil. The guy that did the article was doing the testing on his Ferrari, so I do not believe he'd would risk damaging his six figure car if he didn't know what he was talking about. I have the article book marked if you wanna read it over. Just some food for thought.

 

i am sure you have seen threads on oil an for me its just a choise for everyone,I may go to edge 5w30 full syn, I used Castrol for years an realy the only reason for useing it is the zinc,pouring it in its not that much thicker ,not like putting stp at 2000 miles is thick ,anything that keeps the enigine zinc leval high ,so I cant buy anything about logic ,to me logic was changing the oil at about 400 wich joe gibbs says ,I used 20/50 for years with no trouble ,the only logical thing about the kinda oil we use is that we put in enough an check it ,I have read the oil threads there are as many opinons as there are people with them but thanks for the info I may go to edge full syn ,my thought to is that my rpms are going to be higher around town in #2 gear an on highway in 3rd ,I guess if I had Ferrari I would use what they tell me to when oil is hot its all like water pretty much ,don't care to debate its got high volume oil pump,i hear of guys running them in there vets you name is 427 350 400 302 there using it with no problems, more heat breaks down the oil faster or am I wrong,i warm mine up for 5 to 10 mins below 50 ,above 60 2 to 3 mins is good. the th350 demands more rpms with a shift kit pretty high stall too , more heat comes with more hp an tlbs

 

Just a FYI, F1 cars, which spin close to a constant 15,000 rpms, run straight 5 and 10 oils. I'm not saying you can't use 20W-50, because you can. But if you switch to 5W-30 and can still keep 10 psi for 1k rpms, why wouldn't you? It'll still protect the engine, while cutting down on wear and allow for the oil to better protect the engine on cold start ups. You'll also get some better fuel mileage, probably not a noticeable difference, but something. Now, if you were at the track, then yeah, a thicker oil wouldn't hurt. Also, the VR1 oil that you can buy at most auto parts store still only has about 600 ppm of zinc in it, if that. If the oil is API certified, then it is restricted on the amount of zinc that is in it. I wouldn't worry about zinc too much if you're running roller lifters.

 

well its like this for now there is only weeks left in the season right now in the winter I am going to buy sbc headers an we are going to run straight pipes 2 mufflers no cat the car is exsempt from ec hear in NH ,an going to get a better set of valve covers will look at how it flows then ,then I may switch to the edge there not roller lifters there flat tappit ,there hydrolic though not fixed while oil breaks down fast I don't know how fast ,I wrote the builder an asked there opion on it thanks for looking out though adding a set of gauges real soon if got time this year ,if not in spring will see what the oil pressure difference is at start up ,I got a lot of 10 oil filters to play with fram 3xs ,I have been thinking about what you said though on cold days,oh my gas milage has improved no#s yet ,but like from 5 to 8 to near 10 after I feel it mostly brok in though I am trying to get to 1000 before doing to much high revs an get a tach in place ,so yes it still a work in progress if I can get 10 t 12 mabey more .but it very noticeable $30.00 seems to take me twice as far .changing gas filters to glass reuseable an that one under the middle of the car this week,am moveing fuel pump to back of car ,that filter the plastic paper one is dirty ,I am surprised how cheap they are an get dirty fast I wonder that the rear filter