My clutch pedal sometimes not always sticks about half way when you let off the pedal after shifting. The clutch itself engages fine but the pedal sometimes sticks, usually under a strong load, like winding out the gears. Any ideas why its doing that or do I need a new pedal assembly or possibly just get the pedals rod and cylinder (what engages the clutch pedal on the floor board) serviced?

 

I would have to suggest that the problem might be your slave or master cylinder. Are you having any problem with the clutch engaging or disengaging? If you take your foot and put it under the petal can you bring it back up to the normal starting position, and if so does it operate normally for a while afterward? If you have to replace it, replace it all as a whole don't just buy one or the other. Also get theac delco parts.

 

My clutch was sticking to the floor and it was the master cylinder.........

 

It doesn't stick to the floor and it does not have any problems engaging it just sometimes gets stuck in the half way position (after clutch already engages). Inside the rod and cylinder assembly by the firewall contains hydraulic fluid right so couldn't I just get it serviced. I don't think its the master cylinder this is a hard problem to explain because it doesn't happen all the time so it's hard to pin point what is causing it. But whatever it is I still have a warranty on the car so if it is the master cylinder its free. I just don't want to take it somewhere and have someone tell me a bunch of lies. I live in Colorado Springs so there are no good mechanics here at least none that I've found.

 

Damn, I just read my warranty and it don't cover any clutch related issues. I thought it covered cylinders and stuff but it don't. So let's say it is the master cylinder what does that run usually.and how hard is it to do.

 

Its a common problem with LSX cars, the clutch hydrolics are weak in them. Either buy a new slave, or google "LS1 drill mod". Its not a hard job to do.

 

My slave cylinder went bad and I replaced the master cylinder instead. I figured that a napa part was just as good as the ac delco part, but it didn't have a bleeder screw and it was nearly impossible to get it and keep it primed as a result. When I did get it primed and put in the piston in the slave cylinder failed to go back in, and the master cylinder forced the piston in the slave cylinder out further pressing the throwout bearing onto the clutch fork... take it from me my friend, replace the whole thing, (around $300) and you won't have a problem. It comes preprimed and all you do is install it and pump the clutch to break the plastic piece that holds the slave cylinder piston in place. It is a little tricky to get the master cylinder in place because the brake booster will be in the way, but it will thread in the same way the old one will come out. there are three nuts holding the bracket and the m. c. on the firewall. Then there is a clip holing the m. c. piston onto the clutch pedal.Should take 30-45 min. tops. If you go with cheap parts you will also not get steel braided lines.

 

I'm having a similar problem w/my 99 SS Z28. It ran fine, sat for 5 days then I get in and the clutch pedal goes almost to the floor. Fluid level is fine. I looked under it and the line from the clutch Master Cyl. goes right into the bellhousing. Am I wrong or do you have to remove the tranny to replace the slave cylinder/actuator?

383stro, the 30-45 min estimate - does that include the actuator/slave cylinder R & R also? I don't see how given the dealer tells me its a five hour job to Rand Rboth unitsin their book. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
JP.