Really not worth it. It would be less work to Lt1 out of the 94 Camaro.

 

going to have to lift the front of the engine up to get pan out, up about as far as you can get it.

 

Are you saying you changed the head gaskets and you did not change the oil? That motor was a goner before you even started it. The coolant that fell into the motor when you pulled the intake was enough to kill a brand new motor no less a 200k motor. I would not waste 5 more minutes on the motor. Start looking for a used one.

Just a FYI, when you put coolant through the pressure of a oil pump it breaks it down and forms a acid. That acid will strip the babbitt off your bearings, it tends to deposit the Babbitt in the oil passages, you have to dip the block in acid before you even start the rebuild.

 

Antifreeze didnt mix and I took the precautions for nothing to mix. Now before I replace them I have no idea about the damage that may have been cause. Currently waiting for Napa to open due to the need of an 18mm deep well for the motor mounts. Will keep you posted... Any other suggestions welcome

 

If a car has a knock in the motor normally we would just cut the oil filter using a pipe cutter and check for metal. If there is a bunch of metal they we saved the customer the price of pulling the pan. If the engine is real bad you can just pull the dip stick and look at the oil with a magnifying class. If you see specks of metal she is toast. It helps to wipe the oil on a white paper towel. The oil soaks in and the metal sits on the top.

To be 100% sure there is no coolant in the intake is a pretty neat trick. Care to share?

Bottom end problems after head gaskets is pretty common. If we see coolant getting to the oil then we advise against the repair but even sometimes when there is no coolant in the oil the hydro locking that has already happen has damaged ring land and wrist pins. These issues normally show up in the first week or two after the repair. I know of at least a half dozen cars that were scraped with new head gaskets.

 

there are many desent used ones out there ,it just seems you got your use of this car

 

It was rod bearings. All were good except #4. Going to get an oversized bearing for a temporary fix until I can get either another car or another motor

 

You may want to check that rod out before replacing the bearing. In case the bearing spun there is a very good chance that the big end of the rod got stretched, which will allow the new bearing to spin again. An oversize bearing will make things worse, if anything you need a slightly undersize bearing to make up for the wear on the crank journal.

 

There very little chance this will work. The metal from the bearing is all thought the other bearings and the valve train. Once you start using the motor under load other things are most likely going to fail.

If I had to do it, I would clean everything really good. Run some emery cloth around the crank and on the inside of the rod. Make sure the new (on size) bearing is still fitting in the edge grooves. (sometimes the metal will smear in the those grooves.) I would then plastic gage the bearing. Since the rod is most likely stretched it may read high, You want to get some good 400 grit sand paper on a nice flat support and sand the bearing and removable cap as a unit. Keep doing that until your plastic gage reads .002". Give everything on last cleaning and button it up. If you have not done plastic gaging before head over to youtube and search it. It is real simple.

I watch an old timer do this for a broke friend at the garage I was working at. He told his friend 2500 miles tops and drive like an old lady in a school zone. He later told me the motor sized 9000 miles later. Heck I was amazed when it drove out of the garage. That was a old small block.

Since 4th gens V6 with motor issues tend to sell for the same price as parts cars it may be a good time to sell yours and buy a 3800 with a blown motor. You can get 2008 3800 with less then 50k on them for around $400 and if you put a new intake gasket on it should be a 200k motor. It will most likely be cheaper then finding a reliable 20 year 3.4 plus it an extra 35 HP and better gas mileage.

 

yup seen a remaned 3800 gm with new head gaskets 1100.00 ebay,an other used ones for $450,.00 with like 47.000,i would go with remanufactured one for 1100.00 ,then a donor car goes for like $500.00 on graigs list ,so one could put together a fine car for under 2000.00,i seen 2000 that had a mint body inside clean was 500.00 had blow engine was one owner with 98.000 ,for me used engines are like used cars a crap shoot ,so I would go with remaned ,just like the one I just got its crap shoot,unless you find a one owner donor car too then they usallly have all the records on whats been done ,on mine I don't know if the intake has been done