Hey ya'll! I'm getting pretty close to installing my headers on my 95-Z28

I read the write up that was sticky'd
Pacesetter LT Headers
Bought percy's seal-4-good dead soft
stage 8 locking bolts
NGK TR55 plugs
Jeggs 8.5mm Wireset
Off-road Y-pipe
Heat shield

Am I missing anything?

Are there any tips that I can get from anyone that has done an install?

 

do you have a block of wood and a bottle or floor jack? You'll be removing the motor mount bolt and lifting the engine

What is going behind the headers? Did you get a new Y pipe and cat back system?

If so, then a sawz all is your friend rather than dealing with clamps. Since you won't be re-using any of the old, then cut away and save time

 

Yes, I have some blocks of wood and floor jacks. When I remove the motor bolts, about how far do I need to move the engine?

I got a Y pipe, and cat-back. Just cut it and chunk it?

I just wish there were pictures or even a video of angling them in, I would be more confident about it.

 

pffft

you can do it. Fear is over-rated.

Seriously, with only jack stands, getting the cat back to fit and not leak is what will be harder. You twist, bang and clamp but don't forget the use of colorful metaphors is always in order.

Anyway, since you're ditching the old exhaust system, and have to use a new Y pipe then a sawz all shaves off lots of time

bear in mind that the O2 sensors are now going to be further away and that's why i wrote to get extensions. Also, the header will be closer to the brake lines and that's why iw rote to get some heat shield

we all know that getting to the plugs is a beach thus why you should replace them and the cables.

The Percy gaskets because you don't want to do the job twice and don't want leaks

are you removing AIR and egr? If so, did you get the headers without? If so, then it's even easier.

Do disconnect the battery because you'll be glad you did the first time you arc across the starter.

As for jacking the engine, it will only lift so much and like I mentioned, if the right side is giving you problems (those with EGR and AIR tend to be tight) then you push the engine over toward the drivers side and the header drops in.

If you've ever worked on front wheel drive vehicles then lowering the engine down is a common thing so raising the LT1 is no biggie.

Water pumps on caravans, lower the engine. A/C on Fords, lower the engine
heck, thermostat on the 2.3's, lower the engine and remove the A/C


Good grief, to be able to get the A/C compressor off of the 95 Z28 I had to drop the sway bar.

I long for the days when on the F100 and the 302 needed work, you climbed inside the hood and stood up with your feet on the ground.

Be thankful you aren't trying to put headers on a 95-2004 Mustang GT

Good luck but you won't need it. You'll be fine

you want to know difficult, ask craby about working in some of the engine compartments on small boats and worse, try doing it wile at sea.

Some of us who go off shore were too cheap to buy twin engines. We learn the value the hard way.

 

Thanks for the feedback! Much appreciated. I got extensions, I plan on getting rid of AIR and EGR. Hopefully this upcoming weekend I can post the results!

 

Did you get headers without AIR and EGR fitting?

You'll throw a code for EGR until it's tuned out or just keep the valve connected until you get it tuned out.

If you did buy headers w/o EGR/AIR then that's great. If not, maybe see about sending them back or at least go to a shop who can hack off most of that EGR tube from the header and fit a plug and weld it. That EGR tube gets in the way of the install. Without it, they go in much easier

 

Yeah I got them without EGR/AIR, I plan on getting it tuned out soon after I get the headers on. I sliced halfway through my thumb at work, so I think the install might be a little more challenging but it isn't going to deter me.

I'm gonna wake up at 5:30 and get started early. Hopefully I can get this done without too much BS.

EDIT

And I'm already stuck on getting the oil dipstick tube out... ugh

 

Got the oil dipstick tube out. got 4 bolts off of the right side, and im struggling to get the last two.

Now, the EGR and crap that is connected to the exhaust manifold, what do I do with that stuff? How do i get rid of it all?

 

I believe that's the AIR stuff. Just toss it

The EGR is going to need to be plugged. Until you get a metal plug for the intake manifold, a short hose and rubber cap from the auto store will suffice.

 

Update.. I'm still working on it.

I got the starter out, dip-stick tube, alternator, and passenger side manifold. I got the headers down in the passanger side, but I need to jack up the engine to get enough room for them to slide down.

My front two tires are on ramps, would it be wise to jack up the engine while it is at an angle?

Also I have three bolts on the driver side manifold that wont budge and I don't want to use too much force and have them break- so I've been spraying them with PB blaster.. Still nothing.

going on the third day now lol