Garage Find Help Needed
#11
Which side? Toward the top, bottom or middle?
#12
Plug is back by the fuel tank.
You could unplug there and supply battery power and ground to pump connector and listen for pump hum.
Also, you could disconnect return hose from the hard line from the engine and attach a long hose and dump it into a gas can.
Then, pour in fresh fuel into tank and recycle it.
Injectors are under the fuel rails at engine.
I would use Wynn's Injector Cleaner
You could unplug there and supply battery power and ground to pump connector and listen for pump hum.
Also, you could disconnect return hose from the hard line from the engine and attach a long hose and dump it into a gas can.
Then, pour in fresh fuel into tank and recycle it.
Injectors are under the fuel rails at engine.
I would use Wynn's Injector Cleaner
#15
Got a new fuel pump and proceeded to remove the old one via the "Hatch" method. This is what we found:
http://s1321.photobucket.com/user/jo...tml?sort=3&o=0
Also found this:
http://s1321.photobucket.com/user/jo...tml?sort=3&o=1
Wonder why it wouldn't start.
Also found the tank covered in rust (inside) and a lot of an impossible to clean bunch of a tar like substance.
New tank has been ordered.
http://s1321.photobucket.com/user/jo...tml?sort=3&o=0
Also found this:
http://s1321.photobucket.com/user/jo...tml?sort=3&o=1
Wonder why it wouldn't start.
Also found the tank covered in rust (inside) and a lot of an impossible to clean bunch of a tar like substance.
New tank has been ordered.
Last edited by johno97007; 10-09-2015 at 04:14 PM.
#18
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,352
Reality check, If you want to have a car that is reliable you need to replace the whole fuel system. Rust is just about impossible to clean out. It will be in your fuel lines, fuel rails, fuel regulator anything that can not be pulled a part and cleaned should be replaced.
Back when I was in mechanic school I drove a VW rabbit, the neck for the fuel tank rusted. The mechanic told me I had to replace everything. I said naw the filter will protect it the rest of the system and I just replaced the tank. I replaced every part of the fuel injection system in the next 18 month and before the car even had 80k on it I was on the second round of parts.
At the first dealer I worked for it was policy, rust in the tank replace everything. Service manager would rather not do the work then if it was just changing the tank, he said the customer would just end up hating us and their car.
7 years of antifreeze freeze siting is about 4 years too long. The antifreeze will have a very high acid content. It will ruin the seals in the water pump very quickly. In fact there is a very good chance the internal blades on the pump are shot. I would just do the water pump and flush the radiator. I would not drive on the oil, It may look "OK" but it has separated and is no longer able to preform it job. It might be fine for idle but I would never drive a car with that in there.
Belt and plug wires will most likely fall a part very quickly,
Honestly your great deal may cost more to get dependable then it is worth unless you can do the work yourself.
Back when I was in mechanic school I drove a VW rabbit, the neck for the fuel tank rusted. The mechanic told me I had to replace everything. I said naw the filter will protect it the rest of the system and I just replaced the tank. I replaced every part of the fuel injection system in the next 18 month and before the car even had 80k on it I was on the second round of parts.
At the first dealer I worked for it was policy, rust in the tank replace everything. Service manager would rather not do the work then if it was just changing the tank, he said the customer would just end up hating us and their car.
7 years of antifreeze freeze siting is about 4 years too long. The antifreeze will have a very high acid content. It will ruin the seals in the water pump very quickly. In fact there is a very good chance the internal blades on the pump are shot. I would just do the water pump and flush the radiator. I would not drive on the oil, It may look "OK" but it has separated and is no longer able to preform it job. It might be fine for idle but I would never drive a car with that in there.
Belt and plug wires will most likely fall a part very quickly,
Honestly your great deal may cost more to get dependable then it is worth unless you can do the work yourself.
Last edited by Gorn; 10-09-2015 at 09:00 PM.
#19
Reality check, If you want to have a car that is reliable you need to replace the whole fuel system. Rust is just about impossible to clean out. It will be in your fuel lines, fuel rails, fuel regulator anything that can not be pulled a part and cleaned should be replaced.
Back when I was in mechanic school I drove a VW rabbit, the neck for the fuel tank rusted. The mechanic told me I had to replace everything. I said naw the filter will protect it the rest of the system and I just replaced the tank. I replaced every part of the fuel injection system in the next 18 month and before the car even had 80k on it I was on the second round of parts.
At the first dealer I worked for it was policy, rust in the tank replace everything. Service manager would rather not do the work then if it was just changing the tank, he said the customer would just end up hating us and their car.
7 years of antifreeze freeze siting is about 4 years too long. The antifreeze will have a very high acid content. It will ruin the seals in the water pump very quickly. In fact there is a very good chance the internal blades on the pump are shot. I would just do the water pump and flush the radiator. I would not drive on the oil, It may look "OK" but it has separated and is no longer able to preform it job. It might be fine for idle but I would never drive a car with that in there.
Belt and plug wires will most likely fall a part very quickly,
Honestly your great deal may cost more to get dependable then it is worth unless you can do the work yourself.
Back when I was in mechanic school I drove a VW rabbit, the neck for the fuel tank rusted. The mechanic told me I had to replace everything. I said naw the filter will protect it the rest of the system and I just replaced the tank. I replaced every part of the fuel injection system in the next 18 month and before the car even had 80k on it I was on the second round of parts.
At the first dealer I worked for it was policy, rust in the tank replace everything. Service manager would rather not do the work then if it was just changing the tank, he said the customer would just end up hating us and their car.
7 years of antifreeze freeze siting is about 4 years too long. The antifreeze will have a very high acid content. It will ruin the seals in the water pump very quickly. In fact there is a very good chance the internal blades on the pump are shot. I would just do the water pump and flush the radiator. I would not drive on the oil, It may look "OK" but it has separated and is no longer able to preform it job. It might be fine for idle but I would never drive a car with that in there.
Belt and plug wires will most likely fall a part very quickly,
Honestly your great deal may cost more to get dependable then it is worth unless you can do the work yourself.
What started out as lust is now turning into a nightmare! This is a hobby project not a career. If it were a Z-28, maybe. Base model, I don't think so. I have two other cars that are dependable so why fiddle with it? I'll probably do what I can do and flip it and try to recoup what I've put into it.
P.T. Barnum was right .
I'll continue to post as things happen.
Thanks for your input. It's greatly appreciated.
#20
current injectors can be cleaned and flow tested at a injector shop for 10 bucks ea or somewhere in that area. rails can be cleaned. neither are that hard to remove or install. how does the old coolant look? green stuff or orange? if it was lt1 i would say no worries. the 3.4 on the other hand is not happy with orange stuff. also will not have resale value.
Last edited by craby; 10-10-2015 at 08:58 AM.