Perhaps he meant these. From the GM F-car 94 service manual:

"Minor water pump weepage and minor engine cooling
system leaks may be corrected by adding two sealant
pellets to the cooling system. The pellets are available
from GMSPO in packages of six under GM P/N 3634621."

 

whole front cover has to be taken off to get to a 93 camaro 4th gen. cooling system and seal the leak (s). It is labor intensive. at this shops hourly rate of 80 bucks an hour I estimate maybe 9 hours of labor? since the parts are cheap. there is no head gasket blown, all of this was from my recent conversation 1 hour ago again with the repair shop owner wanting to charge me 800 bucks to repair my coolant leak. it probably goes without saying that he did a pressure test, in fact, I asked him to do so once before and after he did work on it and he said he would. thanx everyone for ur input.

 

why does the front nose need to come off I never heard of that ,some guys can take out a whole engine in about the same time , that's about what it took to take my lt1 out 8 hours ,the plastics on the bottom may have to come off takes like 15 minutes ,it should not be that labor intensive ,,9 hours sounds like way to long for any one thing ,seems a whole cooling system could be put in in that amount of time radiator hoses water pump heater core ,,now a good head gasket job where they machine your heads an replace all the gaskets could take that long

 

i have a 93 and can take the whole cooling system out without taking the front bumper cover off the car or much of anything else.

 

timing cover is in the way whole timing chain cover has to be taken a part and put back together. in order to seal the leaking coolant area. 800 bucks

 

I went searching for those. Looks like there was a service bulletin released that said opps, don't use those. Great reviews on the net tho.


Looks like the 3.4 timing chain cover is a fairly common issue. 5 year old thread.
https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...k-again-60519/

 

I ran into a similar problem with my daughters 99 Camaro with 3.8 liter. By the way, I also have two 97 Z28s with LT1s. I have worked on these cars over 10 years. It would be helpful to know which engine you have. On the 3.8, there are a few areas that can leak beyond what you and others have said. I know the gasket between the timing cover and the block can leak too. It is a beach to do since the crank pulley is torqued on about 150 lbs. Once the timing cover gets replaced the front edge to the oil pan can leak oil, so then the oil pan gasket may need replacing. Over 3 hrs labor on timing cover and over 4 hrs on oil pan gasket. Also the heater hose connections on the 3.8 totally suck. I used metal connectors with o-rings off an Oldsmobile or Bonneville with the direction facing the firewall. Connectors are (2) 5/8 and heater core has 5/8 and 3/4 so a size converter is needed. Or just use a 3/4 OD short pipe. Used std heater 5/8 and 3/4 hose. I re-sealed the new water pump using grade 8 bolts. I also replaced the old thermostat. Since the water pump bolts go through the timing cover, I decided to make sure they were good and tight and therefore didn't have to pull the timing cover or oil pan. I also replaced the crappy heater hose clamps from the factory. I pulled the reservoir bottle and flushed it. Then I used a 20 lbs cap for a 99 Jeep V8 instead of the crappy 18 lbs caps from the normal retailers. Now the coolant is being pulled from the bottle to radiator. No leaks so far. The LT1s are slightly different but much of this applies except the timing cover.

 

he has the 94 3.4l wich was a 2 year run pretty much

 

*Hi, I have a 93, 3.4L

3 hrs and then 4 hrs what u quoted above at 95 dollars an hour mechanic shop fee labor is 7 hrs x 95 bucks = $665 in just labor there, not including what other clumsy problems the mechanic may or may not run into. The parts are cheap, tho.

This is the most expensive repair on a Camaro V-6; 3.4 L that I have ever run into. Since coolant when the car cools down expands onto from or near the intake, in the morning when the car is cool and I'm about to drive, turning it on makes a certain smoke come out the tail pipe which can ruin the engine.

All told the repairs in total at a more experienced mechanic are $1,092. I need to save 59 days for this repair and I'm driving it 10 miles every 2 days or only 3x per week and am constantly checking coolant levels in the morning when the motor is cool.

The coolant temp sensor which activates the air cooling fans didn't work so I had that replaced at 185 bucks out the door, it Did cool it down a lot more.

I think part of the problem of my car running higher than usual temps like 1-2 lines below the red overheat temp gauge zone is that I am only allowed to drive on surface streets. I drive 10 miles on surface streets every 2 days.

but when I do drive on long stretches of land with almost no stop lights or stop signs the car is at a lower temp, since it gets naturally cooled with the wind?

I also asked another friend if putting a car in Neutral at a legal stop will lower temps since it doesn't hum when it's in neutral.

He didn't know.

Maybe you or someone else knows?

This friend did say turning the heat up all the way instead of the air conditioning will cool the motor down which I found that odd.

My **** on the AC // Heating is super glued on cooling here in Southern Calif. so I don't want the heating dial to work nor do I need it to.

I understand that people are here to save money on DIY.

but I have a head injury and I also have no time or patience in doing it myself only for the problem to still be there.

I want it fixed right the 1st time and in 2 days max.

Thanks again for everyone's input.