AC in my 02 3.8 Firebird started to blow hot the other day while sitting at a light.

I pulled the fuse to see if it was blown[It was not] and when I put the fuse back the AC started working again.

Fast forward a few days and the AC quit twice in one day but pulling the perfectly good fuse for a few seconds seemed to ''reboot'' the AC. It blows cold enough to hang meat when it's working.

Any one ever have a problem like this?

 

a simple answer could be "it could be anything"

but, let's at least use a little logic (but it still could be.............)

you need refrigerant and PAG oil (PAG is an acronym) in order for the compressor to engage and actually "cool" the air. So, you could have a blockage in the lines or condensor or accumulator etc but, let's rule them out for right now (remember the logic here)

let's also assume that (yeah yeah, I know all about *** U Me) the refrigerant level is correct because you say that the AC will work and blow cold immediately.

Sooooooo, you mentioned that removing the electrical connection and then reconnecting makes it come alive. We know that the compressor itself is driven by the belt but if that's the case, why isn't the AC always on? Well, the clutch must engage and that is why you need electricity to it. But wait, there's also a sensor (low refrigerant) which could go bad despite having a good charge. If it's bad, your clutch won't engage.

IDK on the sixers but the V8s (probably the same) have a 3 wire connection on that sensor. On the 3rd gens it was 2 wires so a dummy like me could easily figure out how to bypass that sensor.

You'll need to ping our local wizard Gorn or his understudies Camaro69 and craby and ask about bypassing the low refrig sensor (not a long term solution btw, in fact, just a troubleshooting use)

But, if i were a gambling man, my money is on the clutch is going out and frankly, just replace the compressor when it finally dies. Now, that means you'd be opening the system and need an new dryer/accumulator, exp valve and should probably flush it as well.

IDK about the sixers but I've disconnected all harnesses and everything and pulled an engine from a pickup truck in less time than what it took me to get the compressor out of the Z.

There was one stupid bolt that I could not loosen despite torch, pb blaster etc. I eventually cut the ac lines and bought a new set for $40

 

You're right about being able to pull a motor out of a truck faster than changing this compressor..lol I changed this one a few years ago so I didn't even consider the clutch going bad and it doesn't cycle on and off so I assumed it wasn't low on freon.

I know I know never assume..lol

I'll borrow a set of gauges next time I'm out by my buddies shop and check but I still don't understand how removing the fuse would ''reboot'' the system if it was low.

 

Also, the AC high pressure switch will trip if the system is overcharged allowing the compressor to increases the pressure to the trip point. The AC will also trip off on high pressure if the fans do not work properly, allowing the system pressure to go too high due to excessive heat.

 

I'll check to see if the fans are working properly.

 

The fans are working and the ac has been working fine for days now. If the fans are an issue it must be a sporadic issue.

 

<<<@!1!@>>>

I think I now know what caused it

 

The trick will be checking it while it is not working. I can understand resetting a relay or something. The thing I do not understand is how is turning the key off different from pulling the fuse. I assume you have tried replacing the fuse incase there is a internal crack somewhere?

Maybe the BCM is going south?

 

Which AC fuse did you pull, the one in the underhood box or the one inside the door?

 

I swear I didn't feed them after midnight and I didn't get them wet..


I replaced the first fuse thinking it was the problem but then a few weeks later it happened again. I also suspect the computer but am hoping I'm wrong..lol

The door.