Well, I took my car to the shop and they did a really basic test and told me that I have a leak in the system. They said they could evac the system and recharge it with some dye to find the leak. They would charge for that test and then charge to fix it. Since I had bought the orifice tube I asked them if they would replace it while it was evacuated, they want $75 just to replace it and add that to the other charges. That is too much. Since there is no Freon left in the system can I change the Orifice tube myself? Also I just want to take a water hose to the condenser, so could I disconnect that as well?

 

You got BS'ed from the start. Whoever told you the orifice tube/expansion is bad either lied or had no idea what they where talking about. Orifice tubes do not really go bad they get plugged up either from metal from the compressor or silicate from the dryer/receiver. If either of those things are what is wrong then you need the whole system flushed and after that is done you will need to replace the orifice tube. It is a good idea to replace them whenever you replace the compressor but there is NO way you could tell if one was Bad/plugged on a system that was low on Freon.

Keeping the inside of your AC system free from dirt and moisture that is in the air is critical. I would not break it open without good reason and I would not do it until right before I got it fixed. You will also need to replace the O-rings anyplace you pull it a part.

The most common issue on cars of these age is low Freon due to a leaking front seal in the compressor. This seal dies as much from age as from use. That is the most common but the leak could be anywhere. A rock into the condenser would be another common issue.

Is the system completely empty or just low? You said before it was full? A completely empty system will need vacuumed out. $75 is a cheap price considering $11 per pound and they will use 3 lbs if it is empty.

You can buy the Freon with the dye and a black light in a kit for around 30-40. Also check out Youtube for how too videos. Dye and light work good but if it is the compressor main seal the dye ends up on the hood and inner fenders because the compressor slings the dye.

 

Okay, so if there is a small leak in the system the air will NOT blow cold? I filled it a week ago and now its a little above 0. I can see if I can do the dye and find the leak.

 

Your system requires pressure to work for several reasons I can explain if you care. To make sure your system does not damage itself you have a low pressure switch that will not allow the compressor to engage once the pressure falls below a certain point. If the system leaked out in a week you do not have a slow leak. You have a very fast leak that should be very easy to detect. A slow leak needs a can of Freon once a year. They can be hard to find.

Also with a large leak you are getting moisture in your system. Putting Freon in to find the leak is ok as but once it is fixed it will need vacuumed out for several hours.

 

I have no problem at all with you or anyone else educating me. Even though there is a leak, the gauge is never at 0. Is that normal? I want to go about this the cheapest way I can.

 

I agree with Gorn, get it evacuated. You may have no idea what has been done by a prior owner/mechanic in the past and there could be a lot of air inside instead of refrigerant. Better to be safe.