the oil pan has been seeping since the rebuild but has steadily gotten worse. the intake is off the car right now due to another coolant leak (always use acetone, not brake clean). the exhaust will be off to repair a leaking header gasket. how high does the engine need to go to clear the pick up? would prefer not to remove the pick up, but everything else that is normally in the way is off.

 

Sounds like fun...

Document ID# 237249
1998 Chevrolet/Geo Camaro
Oil Pan Replacement

Removal Procedure

J 28467-360 Universal Support Fixture
J 41044 Engine Support Adapters
J 28467-90 Engine Support Fixture Adapters



Install the J 28467-360 and J 41044 to the vehicle.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Drain the engine oil.
Remove the right side engine mount (2) to cradle bolts (1).



Remove the left side engine mount (2) to cradle bolts (1).



Remove the right and left lower shock bolts.



Remove the intermediate steering shaft bolt from the rack and pinion.
Support the engine cradle with appropriate equipment.



Disconnect the oil level sensor electrical connector (1).




Notice

Remove the oil level sensor, located in the oil pan, before the oil pan is removed. The sensor may be damaged if the oil pan is removed first.

Remove the oil level sensor from the oil pan.
Remove the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Engine Electrical.



Remove the front crossmember bolts.



Remove the oil pan bolts (1).
Remove the oil pan (2). Lower the rear of the oil pan while rotating it outward.



Remove the oil pan gasket.
Clean the oil pan gasket surfaces.
Installation Procedure




Install the oil pan gasket.



Install the oil pan (2).

Notice

Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the oil pan bolts (1).
Tighten
Tighten the oil pan bolts to 14 N·m (10 lb ft).




Install the front crossmember bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the upper four crossmember bolts to 125 N·m (92 lb ft).
Tighten the lower two crossmember bolts to 145 N·m (107 lb ft).
Install the starter motor. Refer to Starter Motor Replacement in Engine Electrical.




Notice

Install the oil level sensor, located in the oil pan, after the oil pan is installed. The sensor may be damaged if the oil level sensor is installed first.

Install the oil level sensor to the oil pan.
Tighten
Tighten the oil level sensor to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).




Connect the oil level sensor electrical connector (1).
Remove the equipment used to support the engine cradle.



Install the intermediate steering shaft from the rack and pinion.
Tighten
Tighten the intermediate shaft bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).




Install the right and left lower shock bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the shock bolts to 65 N·m (48 lb ft).




Install the left side engine mount (2) to cradle bolts (1).
Tighten
Tighten the left side engine mount to cradle bolts (1) to 58 N·m (43 lb ft).




Install the right side engine mount (2) to cradle bolts (1).
Tighten
Tighten the right side engine mount to cradle bolts (1) to 58 N·m (43 lb ft).

Lower the vehicle.
Remove the J 28467-360 and J 41044 from the vehicle.
Change the engine oil and filter. Refer to Engine Oil and Oil Filter Replacement .
Document ID# 237249
1998 Chevrolet/Geo Camaro

 

Damn sorry the engine rebuild dint go well. Why is your head leaking.

 

well acording to liberty you dont need to or dont have a dipstick tube. they usually stick down quite a ways. i dont think you can get the motor up high enough. i guess you could lower the k member.

 

we did some reading around, most people say you can jack the motor up about 2 inches before the intake hits the cowl. we have the intake off currently. when i put the comp lifters in it, i used brake clean instead of acetone, so the gaskets didnt bond and starting leaking coolant and vacuum. the exhaust will be off to get rid of the burned out paper gaskets and use some graphite ones, and the cat is getting put to sleep. i didnt use silicone on the corners of the oil pan gasket and it came back to bit me (thank you fel pro for saying not to)

the procedure liberty posted is if i was doing it in a shop and have the cradle to support the engine by the shock towers. i have neither

 

BTW, headER gasket. Not head gasket. One is far less serious than the other. The rebuild went fine, just some small issues popping up. The exhaust leak is just ungodly annoying and embarrassing. It'll be the third set of gaskets. I keep blowing them out.

 

O sorry misread. I used the fel pro gasket an no probs yet.

 

upon review, i had a bolt in the motor mount installed from the front. would have to remove a/c compressor to remove it, so i didnt change the the gasket. the pan will need removed for a fitting when the turbo gets put in. i think until then, a little chassis lube wont hurt, itll keep it from rusting