knocking

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 05-29-2016, 06:41 PM
sasquatchZ28's Avatar
In the Staging Lanes
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 46
Default

I found some 97 at a ph66 and dumped in a can of royal purple max octain booster. and then about 10 gal of 97. DIDN'T FIX **** FELLAS.... I'M at a total loss.???? I'm fearing the worst. could it possibly be a busted valve spring on ither intake or exaust? had one bust on me on my gmc 2500 with a 350. funny thing is is that I've got great oil pressure but it's def lacking some power but still runs good with mild driving. but when you step on her she takes forever to hit the next gear. it's totally messing with me. because last week she was killing it. ????? help bros....
 

Last edited by sasquatchZ28; 05-29-2016 at 06:48 PM.
  #12  
Old 05-29-2016, 07:00 PM
Camaro 69's Avatar
Senior Moderator
January 2010 ROTM Winner
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: The 'Burbs of Chicago
Posts: 18,306
Default

Originally Posted by sasquatchZ28
thanks camaro69. Could it really just be the 85 Oct I put in it? my oil pressure is great above 30... and it makes the knock noise under a load and not under a load.
I glazed over the "not under a load" part. I presume you mean at idle or light throttle? Wouldn't expect it to be low octane causing that then, but 85 is still too low for your engine. The power loss you're describing, makes me lean toward it possibly being a valve issue; either a bad valve itself, bent pushrod, or a rocker arm that let loose. This would make the engine run on only 7 cylinders. What's strange is how it came on so suddenly. If a rod knock, I wouldn't expect the engine to be so doggy, unless you spun a bearing (keep fingers crossed). Does it sound like a muffled clunk, or a louder tap? Is the sound more noticeable from the top of the engine, or while listening from below? If it's from above, removing the valve covers may tell you something. I had an engine once where the pushrod launched itself right through the worn rocker arm. Anything is possible.
 
  #13  
Old 05-29-2016, 07:27 PM
sasquatchZ28's Avatar
In the Staging Lanes
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 46
Default

yes correct on the iddle or med throttle. do you have a way to communicate off the fourm? I'd aperichate a call or I could call you? that would help on the sound you could possibly hear it idk. it seems to be herd more from the top and on pass side Clyd #2 I belive. was just listening with a long screw driver and seemed to be more noise comming from pass side. I thought a couple days ago I herd lifter tick but then didn't hear it or think about it again till it started after doing about 50 mph hedding home. got to a stop big truck next to me sound bounced off of the truck and I herd the knocking. it sounds light metallic not heavy... yet... I just took off spark plug wires at each cyld to see if it would quiet the noise.... no change I noticed.??
 
  #14  
Old 05-30-2016, 11:04 AM
sasquatchZ28's Avatar
In the Staging Lanes
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 46
Default

I took off the valve cover and found fine metal shavings in one of the valleys on the top of the head. Sooooo the motor is gone. what engine do you recommend I replace it with, that will be the easiest and least painful??
 
  #15  
Old 05-30-2016, 03:57 PM
Gorn's Avatar
Fourth Generation Moderator
October 2009 ROTM
ROTM Winner's Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,351
Default

2 trains of thought. If you go back to a 305 everything bolts back together stock. Second option is to upgrade to a 350. If you are paying someone to do this it will be much cheaper to just replace the 305 but the 305 is a junk motor. I was rebuilding those things under warranty when they where less than two years old.

Installing a 250 hp 350 target master motor (around $1500) would be a nice upgrade to your car but your carb is going to choke it. You really should upgrade the carb, distributer and eliminate you computer altogether. Many garages will not want to mess with this type of job you may need to find a speed shop or at least a shop that does not mind messing with modified cars.

http://paceperformance.com/i-6484484...te-engine.html

If you are feeling rich there is my personal fav SBC for the street.
http://paceperformance.com/i-6255304...te-engine.html
 

Last edited by Gorn; 05-30-2016 at 04:03 PM.
  #16  
Old 06-01-2016, 07:16 PM
sasquatchZ28's Avatar
In the Staging Lanes
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 46
Default

if I swap for a 350 what electronics will I be leaving in the engine compartment? Because there's a ****ty ton of wires and hoses and I'm worried about chk engine lights and wht not? because I'm ready got my picker ready to pull it out after wires????
 
  #17  
Old 06-01-2016, 07:17 PM
sasquatchZ28's Avatar
In the Staging Lanes
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 46
Default

I'm going to a stand alone carb and hei....
 
  #18  
Old 06-01-2016, 07:18 PM
sasquatchZ28's Avatar
In the Staging Lanes
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 46
Default

I might add I'm planning on putting a weiand 144 long nose supercharger on top.
 
  #19  
Old 06-01-2016, 08:38 PM
Gorn's Avatar
Fourth Generation Moderator
October 2009 ROTM
ROTM Winner's Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Eastern PA,
Posts: 10,351
Default

On top of what? Just about every part of the emission system has a reason to be there and a way to get rid of it.
 
  #20  
Old 06-01-2016, 08:58 PM
sasquatchZ28's Avatar
In the Staging Lanes
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 46
Default

a pace performance gm 350 290 hp. it's a universal motor for pre 86. I know I'm going to need to keep the emissions parts but since I'm moving to a hei distributer and none computer controlled carb what else will I take out that the computer runs on and all that.....
 


Quick Reply: knocking



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:16 PM.