The procedure Everett#2390 suggested in post # 4 is the foundation that the ECM uses. Everything revolves around it.
The timing is done first , then the "Minimum Idle" speed is set and within the " Minimum Idle " speed procedure the IACV is reset.
All of this is done with a digital timing gun with RPM feature or an after market digital tack of some kind.


I only mention it because of its importance. If any of that is incorrect , that's a problem in itself.
My concern is with the timing setting. My TBI,5.0,Auto has a stock base setting of "0" and a min idle speed of 700rpm in park at normal operating temp.
Also the EST wire on mine is located next to the blower motor in the bay.

 

An issue I have with making sure my base idle is correct is that my HUD RPM dial doesn't work. What seems like a normal idle to me is based on sound. I don't have a timing gun, but what I'll try to do is raise the idle slightly until it's running smoothly, then reset the ECM via the battery and drive it hard.

 

With a carburetor I would say timing it by ear might be OK but with a ECM controlled unit that requires nothing less than exact settings with the timing, min. idle and IACV setting. It will not work any other way. I would call around and see if you can rent a digital gun w/rpm feature.
I have a regular standard inductive timing gun but had to by this one also in order to do this . Its very simple use and makes the old gun look like a rock. = INNOVA Equus Products EQUUS 3568 EQUUS INNOVA Timing Light Advanced Digital Equus Products


Its less then a mechanic for an hour and you will know its done right.


In comparison, when I absolutely have to take my car to a shop and they want to lift it with a "two" post lift ( the one with swing out arms ). The mechanic "must" elevate the lifting pads all the way then get on his "back" on the ground with a flashlight to set the front pads in the right spots. If he does not do that then he's doing it wrong and will crush your under body. That's just an example of the "mechanic doing it wrong" syndrome. What I'm getting at is that if he's not familure with this he will get it wrong and you wont be any better off then when you take it to him.
Heres exactaly how I set mine =


Setting the timing =

Disconnect the EST wire, start car and idle until the car is at operating temp., adjust timing with a gun to stock (my stock setting is "0"), shut off car , reconnect EST wire.


The factory spec "Base" timing for a 305 or 350,TBI is "0". That's with the EST wire unconnected. When the wire is connected it will read around 8* advanced. That's the ECM doing that.



Setting minimum idle speed .=

• 1) Jump the A to B terminal under the dash with a paper clip
• 2) Turn the key on but do not start it
• 3) What 45 seconds (you should hear a slight ticking coming from the IACV valve) then unplug the IACV with the ignition still on.
  Disconnect the EST wire and remove the jumper.
• 4) Start the car.
• 5) It may be necessary to hold the throttle open slightly to prevent the engine from stalling.
• 6) Allow the engine to reach normal operating temperature.
• 7) Connect a tachometer. I used a digital timing gun with RPM feature.
  8) Adjust the minimum idle speed using the throttle stop screw.
  9) My Chilton’s says set it to 700rpm in park on an 89 TBI 5.0 auto. at operating temp.
  10) When done shut the car off and reconnect the EST wire.
• 11) Plug the IACV back in.
• 12) Unhook the battery for a few minuts to reset the ECM.
• 13) Drive the car normaly for at least a day for the ECM to learn/re program itself.

At that point you should be able to run regular gas in it although I use a mid grade.


Even if that does not solve your problem you know its done because if any of that was incorrect to begin with that's a problem in its self.
There are two things IMO necessary when working on a Third Gen . One is at the very least a Chilton's Manual and the other is to either rent or buy a timing gun with rpm feature and preform that procedure above.



Side note = Some paperclips come with a very thin clear plastic coating. You cant see it unless you look very hard. I found this out the hard way.

 

If you want to you can set the timing by finding a hill and drive the car up it fairly slow in "drive" and listen for ping. ( putting the engine under load )
If you hear ping back it down a bit. You can move the timing back and forth until you find the spot just before ping.
This is how I can find the most advance setting my car will take.


OK, I have reread what I have typed in these reply's and some of it sounds pushy.

The last thing I want to do is come on this site and push techniques on anyone. I just want to offer suggestions and possible solutions to problems I myself have had to deal with.
I'm only a shade tree mechanic that has learned from the school of hard knocks.

 

No it's no problem. I appreciate any detailed advice.

Money is tight right now but I will see about borrowing a timing gun from around town somewhere.

 

or switch to higher octane fuel

 

did that. i still wonder if its not a lifter.

 

My opinion now is this was not a very thought out swap. I call these Franken Motors, one made with unknown mix of parts and expect it t run.

 

OK,
If you can get your hands on a basic timing gun (one with out the RPM feature) you can still make this work.


All you have to do is follow the procedure in post #13 leaving out #7.
The reason I say this is because you can have the car very close to the setting we are looking for.
When you turn the distributer when adjusting timing the RPMs change with it. So...........
that's why ,minimum idle is set. You can adjust the throttle stop screw changing the RPMs down as far as they will go with out stalling "by ear".
And one of the most important aspects will also be done ...that is resetting the IACV. You can have all that with a standard gun.


I did find this with free shipping though. Its the same one I have but I paid just over $70.00 for mine = New Innova Equus Digital Timing Light 3568 | eBay

 

Apparently my original suspicion was correct and the shop I'd taken it to for the engine swap was sort of rushing it out the door without actually looking at it any time I brought it in saying I was having certain symptoms. They also never called me back when I called to ask about the things I mentioned I was unsure of in the OP.

I took it to the only other shop in town which is as extensive (the only other shop that will do engine rebuilds) and they called me and said immediately I had a bad distributor as well as coolant hose leading to it. He said it had been bad a while, judging by the condition of the hose.

It's a $534 fix that should last a long time. Thanks all for your input and suggestions.