and i am gonig to make sure the prep work is perfect because i dont want a crack job

 

im not sure the gun yet because im borrowing the equippment but i didnt know the difference between lacquer and urethane and the first thing i found was lacquer i didnt order the supplies yet thats why im making a post to find out what i need so any suggestions will be appreciated im not highly skilled but i know what im doing i need some guidance so if the urethane is better then thats what ill go with ill make sure to post pics along the way

 

Ugh....Where to start...First of all you dont need any more than 1 gallon of primer and 1 gallon of paint.Its a Camaro not a Yacht.
Have you looked into the line of Urethane base coat/clear coat that Summit offers?You can probly get all you need for around $500.Including the primer.
Here is a article from PHR about the line...
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...nts/index.html
http://www.summitracing.com/search/D...nts-Finishing/
Im confused...you said the guy before you was in the process of painting it so the body work is done but he ****ed up when he primed it?What else did he **** up?How did he **** up the primer?
And you are wrong.If you tape up your belt moldings.You wont be able to properly sand/tape the area and you will allow a place for paint to peel.Gorn is absolutely right.You need to take a lot of the car apart if you want to give it a proper paint job.If not just save yourself some time and take it to Maaco.
You dont need an expensive gun or booth to pull of a paint job.I bought a spray gun from Tractor Supply for $100 and its got all the qualities of a Sata.
Prep is VERY important and something that you may want to learn.
Knowledege is power.There are lots of books and dvds on painting your own car.Its a hell of an investment.
Im sorry not trying to be a *****.Just trying to point you in the right direction.
I hope this helps you out.

 

You need more and better information then you are going to get in a post. There are a lot of information you will need, including a lot of stuff you do not know you need. How to set your gun, flash time, hardener, You need to be sure the primer that is on the car will work with your new primer, You said you are going to remove the primer, will your take the car to the metal? if so that is a different primer then if you don't take it to metal, If you are unsure of what is on the car I would suggest a sealer before you prime. If you take the car to metal it will need blocked,,,, which brings up the next question, Has the body been blocked? It very tuff to tell is a body in primer has been blocked. You could spray on a guide coat and do a light blocking......

You should talk to the paint supply place mybe rent some how to videos.

 

i have videos ive got info from more sources then this. the orginal post was about the supplies i would need. as far as the chicks reply..... the only thing i said i wasnt removing was the windows..?? i said i was taking off the molding your bashing..... and as far as the guy ****ing up the primer...if you look at my original post that started this thread you see that i say i have a primmer 91 rs that needs re-primmered he prepped the body good but it looks like he used a spray can primer so this goes into gorns reply with no it was not blocked and yes i will be sanding to bare metal again. so its like im starting from scratch. from absolute bare metal. i know i need hardener and maybe reducer but im not sure the ratio. so i sand to bare metal. then i prime block prime, wet sand then i mix the paint with whatever hardener/reducer i need and begin to paint sanding between each coat then i gloss sanding between each coat then i buff till i get my desired shine?... sorry i dont mean to sound like an *** im just trying to get everything straight.

 

Thats why people are posting, they want to see you get everything straightened out. You don't have to take windows out, they can stay inside your door...safer that way, but for sure the windshield and hatch. No one is bashing, its just that no one wants to see another beater around. Paint is really picky and its not the paint itself, but like stated earlier, its the prep. Once the paint is on and if it doesn't turn out well, that is a whole lot of time re-sanding. Just take your time, and show some pics when its done.

 

i should be starting soon. i am ordering a gallon of black primer, 2 gallons (just to be safe) of sapphire blue mettalic acrylic enamel, and a gallon of ultra extreme urethane clear coat with a qt of activator. How much hardener/reducer do i need? and whats the mix ratio? ill post pics before i start and throughout the process thanks for the help

 

Me and my dad have been professionally painting cars since i was old enough to hold a spray gun, lol. So here's my opinion slash experinces. Theres a few steps your going to want to hit on/ make sure someone else hits on to make sure it comes out smooth and real glossy! First though, If you arent going to do the job yourself, try to find someone good at it that will do it at a private location liek me and my dad. It will be MUCH cheaper and the job beleive it or not will be done BETTER because you can check on it/ better communication. Your car is your baby you dont want a place like maaco with employees that do 500 paint jobs a week and could care less what happens to your car a year after the paint job do it. So do it yourself or find some one. My dad and I usually do cars the size of a camaro for 1800 to a grand. They are done in a regular sized home garage and yes they always turn out better than factory paint jobs. Now on to what you will need to do.

1.) If you or the person doing the job doesnt have access to paint(I provide paint, primer, clear and body work as part of my package becasue supplies are easily attainable for us.) you will need a gallon of paint. Pick one you like price will vary per pint. Paint is usually sold by the pint/quart. Also get alot of clear, the gloss comes from the amount of coats of clear you use as well as the paint color. Find all your hardener/reducer ratios. different paints and clears and primers werk well with different ratios.

2.) Make sure the car is sanded down and cleaned extensively (wet sanding works the best. Use warm water in the winter if you do it outside it will still be cold but worth it.) All dings dents and rust spots taken care of with bondo and welding before you sand and clean. This is done BEFORE priming the car.

3.) Prime the car! Dark primer means it will take more coats to cover, but as you r going for royal blue, it shouldnt matter much. Primer makes the paint stick.

4.) Paint the car! three coats should do it if the paint job is done right. Never stop moving your hand when applying paint to prevent runs. Runs mean un necessary amounts of buffing which leads to unnecessary burns which leads to re painting spots and wasting paint and time. Make sure the coats are applied evenly and thoroughly if you do choose to tackle this yourself.

P.S.: Watch for common mistakes/problems: Water dripping from the compressor hose making permanent water marks on the car. Make sure a different gun is used for the primer/ paint/ clear. If not clean the gun extensively with laquer thinner in between EVERY spray. Watch for dust/ dirt in the air. Watch for bugs. Setting up a fan somewhere to suck air out of the vicinity used for paint is ideal. Cover ALL parts of the car you dont want painted!! You can keep all your windows on just cover them.

5.) Clear the Car! Heres where the gloss look comes in. Technically only one coat of clear is used on a paint job. In your case use two! one coat... five minutes later.. another. dont do too many coats or when the weather changes over from winter to summer, the clear will begin chipping off as if your car is shedding. NO GOOOD.

6.) Bake the Car!(If you can) This does not mean putting it in a booth and pumping the temp up to 300' F like the pro's. just turn on some heaters and lights all around the car. This stops the paint from running as it dries, saves time and helps all those coats harden!

Final step.) After the car has dried for two days, BUFF THE $#%^ OUT OF IT. If the paint job is done right and you/get someone to buff the car extensively, your car will be so glossy it will be hard too look at under the sun! after you buff it, wash it. the compound used when you buff gets stuck everywhere. I recommend hiring a detailer. I buff myself but i always mess something up. Its easy to over buff and burn the paint.

Well as lengthy as that was, hope it helps and guides you, or gives you a guide line of what to look for if someone else paints your car. Have fun best of luck! It sounds easier than it is, however painting a car once or twice really gives you some skills. If you have the resources, dont stress, take your time and if you mess up. Just re do it.

 

that was helpfull but what about sanding between coats.... do you sand between paint coats and gloss coats? and is it different with metallic paint because i think im going with black metallic it matches the interior better

 

shouldnt have to sand at all between coats... that defeats the purpose you know? all your sanding should be done before paint. Buffing is a different story though. its up too you whether you want to wait for the car to dry and buff it after every coat. It will help but... is it worth it?