Good one, but his is electronic ignition. Sorry, I just hadda! lol
I hope he gets this all figured out before he goes insane(er).

 

You guys are absolutely correct, I'm sick and tired of not being able to drive this thing. One problem after the next. I go back and check/verify things that were done correct the first time and still can't get it to run right. I'm fortunate to be so strong-willed and only still going at it out of my sheer determination to not quit after coming so far and for so long. Sanity is long gone. I didn't mean to offend anyone with my irritated post, apologies if I did. It's maddening to not know for certain if there is a part that is not functioning properly or if it's still a matter of finding the proper settings. I've always believed in the philosophy of getting what you pay for but refuse to believe that simply because a part cost less than another comparable one instantly makes it broken or about to break. The distributor will be replaced, but most likely not immediately. Extended weather forecast up here is showing snow on October 18 so my days are numbered. I have to finish up this Saturn front end today and tomorrow leaving for back downstate and then off to Virginia for 2 days. I'm still going to turn the key and try this afternoon to see what it's deciding to do today but not much time to get involved unfortunately. If I can get it to run/fast idle I'm going to try and get a video of what the light is showing.

 

You sure didn't hurt my feelings, or step on my toes! I totally understand the frustration of issues with a new build! Over the years I've had my share of problems when starting up a new engine, or a new project. I hate having issues with a new part, or a new to me part! I went through starting my Falcon up when I put the BBC in it, and it wouldn't even fire. I have a lot of used parts in it, and of course the promises from sellers that the parts "worked great" before I purchased them. Had to send my MSD 6AL in for repair when the engine wouldn't fire, as a test showed I wasn't getting spark. I keep a stock points Chevy distributor around for emergency testing, so I tossed that in and wired around the MSD, to fire it, and assure me where the issue was.
I'm the king of bargain hunters, and I try to either buy name brand used parts, or get a bargain on name brand new parts, when it comes to my engines. If it's somewhere else on the car, like interior, exterior, etc., I'm not so worried. Same with tools. I want my hand tools to be good quality, so they don't fail me when I need them. But I have a real mix of Milwaukie, Porter Cable, and Harbor Freight air or electric tools. I've had great results with the Harbor Freight tools, and although I bought many with the thought I'd finish a car or home project and toss them when they broke; none of them has quit on me. I've got one air board I bought for bodywork that I was sure might quit before the car was sanded. It has done several of my cars, and I've loaned it to 3 other guys, and told them to toss it if it broke. It's still running like new, and just gets a few drops of air tool oil before each use!

 

It's ironic that you bring up Harbor Freight as that's the direct analogy I use with Procomp. They're the HF of auto parts. I've had nothing but good luck with HF stuff, everything I have bought from them is still operational today. I'd like to think the same thing with the PC stuff I've bought though too. It's unfortunately that I really don't know what to be looking for (other than not running properly) to check this distributor. From everything I've known to be true, and the countless videos watched of others doing it, I have to move the distributor WAY away from #1 terminal at TDC on the timing tape in order to get it to run. Seems like everyone else can set it at zero on the balancer, line up #1 with the rotor, fire up their engine AND it'll run. Not mine, not by a long shot. This puts me right back into speculation mode and I really am sick of speculating. The smell of gas was so strong out by the engine after running it for literally one minute today that my eyes start to water and burn. Nothing changed when I had the old carb on there but I still can't help but wonder about that thing. I've checked and checked and checked some more, but I still can't help but wonder. It goes without saying that the engine did the same crap again today. I started at zero on the balancer, lined up #1 and kept advancing a little bit more. Vacuum canister was almost facing directly at the pass side fender when I started and now the port is literally touching the back corner of the intake. I barely have to turn the key to get it to fire and I can tell it's trying to stay running but it just won't. Doesn't that seem a little extreme of an advancement when I started at zero?

 

Now I think we may be getting somewhere. Keep talking and you're bound to give away something important!
The way you're describing it, you're turning the distributor clockwise. That's retarding the timing not advancing it. To advance, you turn the distributor counter-clockwise.
The rotor is spinning clockwise, and turning the distributor counter-clockwise has the rotor meeting the terminals on the cap sooner (advancing).

 

If only it could be that simple Chuck. As much as I would love it to be something like that, contrary to popular belief I'm not that uninformed. I love it though "keep talking and you're bound to reveal your ignorance eventually!" Ha!! I've checked everything that I know to check to verify proper installation and setting of everything on this engine. I'm not the most experienced builder, but I always try to go at it informed. Hence, all the pages of questions. I read to turn the screw/spring in the canister all the way counter-clockwise to start, and mine already was. The engine fires almost instantaneously when I turn the key and run for about 2 seconds if I don't have my foot on the gas pedal feathering it. That to me seems more like a carb issue. However, just to put the mean 'ol Procomp distributor issue to bed, I plan on purchasing a new distributor to be on my doorstep when I return home next week. If I had enough money right now to dedicate to Camaro parts, a new carb would be sitting there with it. I'm almost starting to think it would be better for my anxiety to leave the Camaro like it is for the winter? With my luck it'll be purring like a kitten the day of our first blizzard!


p.s. The allen wrench used for the vacuum advance canister was a 3/32 not a metric Vall! I wish I knew how to write 3/32 in Chinese...
Bear with me guys, sarcasm is all I've got left.

 

The setting on the vacuum advance wont have any effect at starting, but once the engine fires it will immediately have an effect on timing. I'd try cranking the allen screw in a turn at a time, just to see if it clears up the idle issue. Since you know where it's at now, it will be easy to get back to zero if it doesn't help.

Not running immediately on a cold engine wont necessarily mean a carb issue. Once you've got it warmed up, if it still wont idle, or keep running, then it might be a carb issue. Both of my cars need some help blipping the throttle to keep running, until they're warmed up.

 

I will agree with Val, my motor will not idle cold. About the first time i can stop watching the pedal is when my gauge starts to read temperature, 140 or 160 i think. Also when it is cold it sounds like it misfires. It is the exact same sound that i had when i wasnt getting enough voltage to the distributor. The car would only run under pedal when that was happening.

 

I'm curious to know what you did to diagnose the issues you were having with the voltage issues and how you ended up resolving said issues? I'm not assuming anything with regard to what I've got going on but would still like to know if you feel like sharing. I'd certainly appreciate it!

 

I'd start by checking the voltage to the coil, and see what that is. I'd also check resistance from the block to the ground terminal on the battery. If it reads anything over 1 ohm it's got a bad ground. Should read the same thing it would read if you touched the meter leads together.
Since you have an MSD box ahead of the coil, I would check the voltage on the 12v. circuit feeding it, and also the 12v. output from the MSD to the coil.
If you're not getting 12vdc to the coil, then the resistor wire in the ignition circuit needs to be replaced. Or routed around. Some people simply install a relay that is pulled in by the old coil wire, and put power across the contacts. Only issue is that might not pull in well, if the control power is low.